bazzbazz

Ok, I had similar symptoms on a clients car sometime ago. It was the firewall junction where the wires for the Throttle pass through into the engine bay. Simply follow the wires from the throttle all the way along to the firewall, cleaning and tightening each connector as you go along. In this case it was the last connector just before the firewall that was the issue. See how you go. Baz

â—¾The pump runs upon opening the door and again when inserting the key prior to selecting N for start This is normal and the way it should be. As for everything else it sounds very much like you have "clutch Drag". This is where the clutch is not fully disengaging. When it happens it is usually noticed when the clutch is hot. It can also be caused by the "Pinch Bolt" coming loose. This is the actual bolt that connects the Selespeed actuator to the gear box selector. There are 4 steps to curing it in the following order, if one doesn't work move onto the next - 1/ Full actuator and clutch calibration 2/ Check Pinch Bolt is correctly tightened 3/ replace the clutch sensor on the actuator followed by #1 again. 4/ Replacement of clutch mechanism - Most likely there is a problem with the clutch bearing or the nylon bearing carrier or the clutch itself. If your lucky you'll just need #1 Baz

Correct

Smaky, you may be able to shine some light into my dim mind at the moment. I have countless times rectified "Passenger Curtain Airbag Squib" errors in sedans, either bad connection in the side of the trunk, or the actual connection to the Squib under the parcel shelf. Now I have never had any problem removing the connector from the Sedan Parcel shelf Squibs . . . . . BUT HOW IN DOGS NAME DO YOU REMOVE THE CONNECTOR FROM THE SQUIB IN THE BACK CORNER OF THE WAGON LUGGAGE AREA!!!!!!! I have tried everything to the point of grabbing a set of bolt cutters in a slight fit of rage. Please, save my sanity. Baz

To be honest I don't know the tolerances but personally I wouldn't do it. Mainly because if the ABS has to cut in in an emergency just that there IS the possibility it will screw things up is a chance that may just cost you your life. Baz

Also as the Selespeed won't go past 2nd, if the VDC & ABS lights don't go out and stay on the car is most likely in "Limp home mode" as well. To be honest, till you get it hooked up to diagnostics it's a bit fruitless. Baz

Kevin, Is the immobiliser light on perchance as you turn the key to MAR? Where in Oz are you? am in Brisbane and may be able to help out if you're not too far afield? Baz

Wouldn't it just be better & easier to import a manual V6? Baz

You need to get a 27mm spanner and grind the sides of the spanner so it is the same thickness as the Accumulators moulded bolt. This will allow you to get a good fit on it, then get a tube of sort that can go over the other end of the spanner to use as a Breaker Bar, or as I like to call them, a "Force Multiplier" ! :Big Grin: Baz

Please ignore my previous post about blocked exhausts, I had two Alfa web pages open at the same time and posted a reply meant for the other web site here by mistake. :Big Grin: I think you will find the it is still the MAF. Disconnect the MAF and take it for a drive, if it responds and drives better and power is back, then it is the MAF., replace with new one. Baz

Just be aware, you need to depressurise the system before changing the accumulator!! Baz

Ok, you most likely have 2 problems. 1/ The oil on the ground and the dropping to neutral indicates a failing Accumulator. (easy to change) 2/ As the accumulator is not able to hold pressure the pump keeps running all the time trying to keep up pressure. This accelerates wear in the brushes / burns them out. So you most likely will need to replace the pump or renew the brushes. But before doing either with he pump try replacing the pump relay, accelerated use can also burn out the relay contacts. Baz

Sounds just like someone has stuffed an apple up your exhaust don't it? :Big Grin: Could be a blocked exhaust or a melted catalytic converter. Baz

Well the usual reason for the failure of the Pump relay is it operating continuously, usually due to a faulty Accumulator not holding pressure and the pump having to run constantly to keep the pressure up. Whilst sitting stationary, engine off, with the key in MAR & foot on the brake see how many gear changes you can get before you hear the whine of the pump. 2-3 changes is the norm, if the pump runs every change, time for a new Accumulator. Baz

Unless something is left on, the usual suspect is a faulty Voltage Regulator in the alternator. It is easy to check, just disconnect the lead going from the Alternator to the battery, leave everything else connected. Measure battery voltage. Leave overnight and see if there is a noticeable drop in battery, if not, then you have found the most likely culprit. :Big Grin: Baz

" The clue in this was that the release bearing was removed in kit form. This ONLY happens when the front bearing has failed in the gearbox" Sorry Smaky, but you have me a little confused. I understand what you mean about the front gearbox bearing failing but the comment about the release bearing being removed in kit form? Huh? I am not in any way disputing your diagnosis, "Grasshopper would never question master", but could you clarify what you mean a little? Baz

Ok, I bet the "pinch bolt" has come loose and is physically interfering with the gear changes. The "Pinch Bolt" is the bolt that connects the actuator to the gearbox selector shaft, and is accesses through the left wheel arch. It is behind a blanking plug, has a hex drive in the head of the bolt, and should be torqued to 30nm. Torque it up and do an EOL and see how you go. Baz

Smaky, as always, is 100% correct. Just a point I thought I might mention too, it can also overflow due to a faulty accumulator that is on its way out. Just make sure that you can get 2-3 changes before the pump fires up and your laughing. Baz

Ok, if it goes all the way through EOL but can't get any gear change, has your mechanic tested to see if the shift lever is generating a shift input signal? Are the micro switches in the shift lever working? They could be dud or it could be a bad connection in the lever connection wiring. Baz

You are most likely suffering from faulty connections. As For the rod length, Smaky is 100% correct about the clutch rod length, AlfaOBD just calculates it differently. As it stands your clutch rod length is set correctly now. Baz

May I suggest you check the Brake Vacuum hose, is right at the back coming off the intake plenum. They fracture very easily right where it connects to the plenum. Had the exact same symptoms from a clients Brera 3.2 V6 and re-attaching the broken brake pipe solved the issue. Baz

Much appreciated. Baz

I assumed that, but would you know what the min & max dwell should be as in relation to wear on the bearings? Baz

Thanks Smaky, that's the line I have been arguing, but it is interesting to know you can use the dwell to diagnose wear. Can you elaborate s little more on that with twinspark & JTS engines? Baz

A friend brought up an interesting discussion. When using the dial gauge to find TDC, the gauge will rise till it stops, then there is a small period of "dead spot" where the crank continues but the piston is static, then starts to drop. When setting TDC for a cam belt change, where is the official correct spot? A/ When it stops rising B/ The middle of the "dead spot" C/ The moment it starts to drop Baz