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flyblo5 last won the day on April 21 2017

flyblo5 had the most liked content!

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About flyblo5

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  • What car do you drive?
    156 Selespeed Sportwagon, GT 1.9JTD
  • Location
    East Northants
  1. flyblo5

    New Boy

    This is what happens, you try to give up the Alfa but they keep calling you back. You can never escape my friend......not ever!
  2. Well the 147 is smaller and lighter than the 156 and if the Selespeed Gearbox isn't set up correctly it can take an age yo change gear which may explain the difference.
  3. If the relay is OK then I would say you have a problem with the pump. The Accumulator is just a pressure tank to hold fluid under pressure, so if it had failed the pump would be running all the time, or more often than normal depending on how bad the Accumulator is. Best way to check the pump is to remove and connect directly to the battery to see if it runs, but only run it for a few seconds because it will have no oil in it and will be damaged if you run it for too long. Alternatively if you have any spare cable you could leave it in place and run cables from the battery direct to the pump.
  4. I would say either the Pump or the accumulator is faulty. If the accumulator is not holing pressure it will make the pump run all the time which may explain the worn out bushes. When you first open the drivers door you should hear the pump run for about 15 seconds then stop when the system is up to pressure to allow you to change gear a couple of times even without the engine running. The pump should then activate intermittently every few minutes to maintain the pressure. But from what you have said you have no pressure at all. I would start by checking, in order of ease, Can you hear the pump running? Check Selespeed oil level Check Hydraulic hoses for damage Selespeed relay (in front of battery) Then it's either pump or accumulator. Other than the motor brushes the pumps don't usually go wrong so you may have to check the Accumulator. Have you checked with MES and if so were there any fault codes?
  5. Not looking good. Did a quick compression test and no.2 is down to about 100psi but rises to 150 after a few seconds. So I guess it's head off Saturday tomorrow.
  6. Still no good, Did the throttle reset twice this morning and no different. Idles fine but has no go. Will not rev above 3500 and above about 3000 it starts to sound a bit tappety, as if you are in too high gear. Oddly when you first start up (from hot or cold it shows a slight, and I do mean slight improvement for about 30 seconds then goes back to crap. ANY ideas very welcome as I am supposed to be driving her to Italy next Sunday (12th) to do the Stelvio Pass and Monday is the last day I can cancel and get at least some of my money back so I need to know one way or the other by Sunday night If it can be sorted.
  7. OK so I changed the MAF (Bosch) and the noise and bogging down has gone and she runs smoothly but is still very down on power as if someone has put a 1.0l in her. Plugged in to MES and while on tickover the engine speed according to MES was around 4800rpm, when revved it was showing up to 11,000rpm. Drove up the road and back (couldn't go far, no front bumper) and it had dropped to 2800rpm to 3200rpm on tickover. Getting up early tomorrow to put the bumper and bits on then going to try a throttle reset. Any other ideas? No fault codes showing.
  8. First thing I did. Makes no difference at all.The only time it's marginally better is from cold, still does it but not quite as bad, but only for a minute or so.
  9. May be the Lambda. Plugged in MES again and the readings are all over the place. Stuck on zero for a bit then went up to between 700mv and 950mv on idle then spiked at 3951mv at around 2000rpm. Also shows as open loop which I think means buggered.
  10. My 2001 Selespeed has kicked me in the balls again. Going along quite happily then lost power under acceleration. Idles fine and when stationary all seems fine except a bit more throaty when you rev it. but when driving (i.e. under load) anything more than a slight blip of the accelerator and she bogs down, looses power and makes a lot of noise, sounds very similar to a Subaru Impreza but without the go. Once you eventually get to speed and you can back off the throttle she will go along just fine as long as it's flat. Any sort of hill is a no no. The loss of power is so drastic it's almost undrivable. Was thinking possibly MAF but there are no warning lights on the dash and no fault codes on MES, (except for P0115 Water temp sensor,but that's a separate issue) and disconnecting it makes no difference. Answers on a postcard please.
  11. That should ring alarm bells. Shocks should be fitted in Pairs
  12. Probably not much then. If you are scrapping the other car it may be worth keeping hold of as many bits as you can. Defiantly the rev counter, they can be a bugger to find with the LCD display.
  13. If it's defiantly a pipe I'd take as much as possible, including the pump, and to be honest it's pretty straightforward, unless it's the fitting where the pipe meets the rack, and even that isn't too bad so it may be worth taking it out lock.stock and barrel.
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