leongsoon

Hi bazzbazz! We suspected the throttle wires and have checked those, might do it again in case we missed anything the first time around. A peculiar issue is that when the revs drop, we can hear the aircon compressor cutting out as well. We've also switched out the throttle body but the problem persists.

Hi! A few months ago my car started exhibiting random ABS / VDC / EBD failure. Sometimes this starts progressively, it'll start without errors, but after a few minutes of running, ABS error lights up, and after a few more minutes, VDC failure, and later EBD. Sometimes it'll start with all these errors displayed, might clear off in a few minutes, only to reappear later. Brake pump and rear ABS sensors has been replaced but the problem persists. About 3 weeks ago my 156 started experiencing a sudden but short and violent loss of throttle control when driving, shuddering with acute rev drops and Motor Control System Failure message appearing. This occurs every few minutes or worse, few times a minute. What has been done in chronological order: 1. Charged battery and cleaned the terminals (didn't help) 2. Changed RPM sensor (didn't help) 3. Changed tachometer (didn't help) 4. Ran with MAF disconnected (didn't help) 5. Replaced pedal (drove fine for 80km) 6. Cleaned the 2 connectors on top of throttle body (got some throttle related messages but since gone) 7. Clean big Selespeed connector beside battery 8. Cleaned connectors around shifter and behind glove compartment After replacing the pedal, the car drove fine for about 80km but that didn't last. What I've noticed since: 1. Even with the car idle and stationary, the revs will still abruptly drop and probably stall the engine. 2. The rev drop observed isn't as if throttle was suddenly released, rather the tachometer lost readings, the gauge lights and MCSF still work while this happens. 3. I've been monitoring with MES, and every time it shudders, the car loses all readings for pedal angle, throttle angle, rpm etc 4. I've also noticed that sometimes the bulb warning flickers and the Selespeed shifter will fail to respond sometime a few seconds before the car starts jerking again In the early stages of checking and cleaning I've managed to come up with some throttle error messages, and later: P1763 - Receive CAN messages (Stored) P0725 - Engine speed signal (Stored) In the past 2 weeks we haven't been able to get any error messages out of it but the shuddering persists. Could this be a wiring or ECU issue? Really at my wit's end trying to figure this problem out. Any pointer is much appreciated!

As far as I'm aware there are no differences between the early and late 147s concerning the door. The exterior handle material is different (metal / plastic) but everything else should be the same. I think the guide only gets detailed as far as removing the internal handle, but you're pretty close now. Look at the 3rd pic from bottom, that's how you loosen the external handle, you might need to release the rod first.

The easy way, in fact, is to sell it; my Twinny is so rare here that I can sell it and get any V6 car I like with spare change. Unfortunately import is a bit difficult for us as we have to pay a hefty import fee to the few organizations that hold the Approved Permits that will make it legal, it's a heavily monopolised option here. If possible I'd like to keep my current car, but seems like the only straightforward option for conversion while retaining VDC will be to acquire a post 2002 V6 manual donor car. The guys selling the halfcuts say they've never seen any!

Hi guys! Back with another question! I've a question that would be interesting I guess: I have a 2002 156 Selespeed (new chassis, new interior with Infocentre and digital aircon display, old exterior styling, GTA-size rear brakes, VDC, black key fob, remote boot lock, etc etc). I'm considering converting it to a 2.5 V6 manual from a halfcut car (complete front part of the car with all the mechanicals and anciliaries attached), but the only V6 manual halfcuts available are all pre-facelift (red key, old interior and exterior styling). My questions are: 1. There have been quite a few V6 conversions into pre-facelift TwinSpark 156s, I was told that in order for this to work, the facelift dashboard will have to be swapped out for the older version in order for the aircon controls to work. 2. I was also told that the locks and code box from the donor car will have to be used. This will make me lose the function of the remote boot lock. Is this true? I know the general consensus would be that this isn't a worthwhile idea converting and it's better off to buy a V6 manual car; but in Malaysia where I am, most 156s are pre-facelift Q-System V6 or Selespeed TS. GTAs, 2002 models and Giugiaro facelifts are extremely rare. Any input is much appreciated!

Just a guess but that might be the expulsion of air trapped in the Selespeed hydraulic circuit during accumulator change, should be fine once the Selespeed fluid has filled the system properly.

Yup, size 27, and the flatter wrench sure helps. I do mine with a normal wrench, but you have to keep the wrench really straight or it'll catch the actuator body and not turn.

As far as I know, you'd have to get some of the LEDs with built-in resistors, otherwise the LED will work, but the bulb failure indicator in the instrument cluster will light up.

Another update, I think I should move this question to another category but unsure which one, so back here it goes. I've put in another used fan resistor from a parted car (no new ones in stock at the moment) but the high speed still doesn't kick in. I've since removed the wires to the resistor and bridged them with a 30a fuse. It's constantly at high speed now so that fixes my overheating risk for the moment. Reckon it's just another botched resistor or is there anything I'm missing (relays, fuses etc)?

Ok, an update, with the engine running hot at 3/4 of the gauge, i turned the AC off and disconnected the temp sender at the thermostat... And sure enough, the fan just started running faster and louder than it was seconds ago. I guess a busted resistor it is then. Will it be ok if I connect the 2 resistor wires and let it run high speed all the time for a few days while I get a new resistor? The temperature is managable, but having it stick so high sure makes me nervous. I'm just worried that making it run high speed constantly will overheat and melt some wires, relays etc

Hi guys, a quick question! My car is still running hot when idling in traffic in hot weather, say about 3/4 of the temperature gauge, or almost to the next marker after 90c, all this in about 38c weather. Once the car moves the temperature quickly goes back to normal, if it's idling in an open area, the temperature will just hover around 90c. Even under hot weather the temperature wouldn't rise much if I push it. Idling 3-5 minutes in hot traffic is what does it. Or am I just paranoid? I did test the fan and relays by removing the thermostat's temp sender with the engine on; fan kicks in after about 3 seconds, the fan then runs faster after another 3 seconds. Low speed works all the time with air con on (nobody in their right mind here drives with air con off really haha). I believe that the test rules out fan motor, wiring, and relays, but is it possible that the resistor is shot and it's preventing the fan from running high speed while driving? As a side note, I noticed that sometimes one of my lambda in the exhaust manifold isn't working correctly (reading at a constant 0.75 or 0.0075 before suddenly reading normally). This makes the car shudder terribly on idle. I've cleaned the contacts a few weeks back and it seems fine now, hasn't recurred. Just putting this here in case it is related.

Welcome! From scorching Malaysia

I don't know much about the water pump other than it is a Sachs unit and was fitted about a year ago during the timing belt change. I noticed it's just running water in the cooling system now (mechanics here don't believe in coolant haha) so I'll put some coolant in later. Temp sensor seems fine based on temp gauge / MES reading, but I'll look into it again. Thanks for the advice!

Thanks for the advice Smiffy! I'm not sure if the water pump was checked when the head was off, but temperature is fine at high speeds and revs now, it just runs a bit hot when crawling in our currently scorching weather (35 deg c average), no water loss detected so far after 3 days of use. When crawling in hot weather it gets to about 100 deg c, not sure if this could be due to the higher compression (slightly thinner head and smaller combustion chamber area)?

Water pump is new, replaced along with the timing belt kit about 2-3 months and less than 1000km ago, so that should rule it out I guess!