Jump to content
K9d

166 Restoration

Recommended Posts

That was my planned approach, that's why I bought spare wheels so that I have time to do it properly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very tempted to put an offer in on this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/51-2001-ALFA-ROMEO-166-3-0-V6-SPORTRONIC-EXCELLENT-DRIVE-LEATHER-PX-SWAPS-/151110725840?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item232ee6b0d0

 

I've always felt an auto box suits the 166s ethos, big comfy cruiser add to that the cruise control and full electric memory seats and I'm seriously considering it.

 

It would, probably, be less than getting the paintwork sorted on mine and give me a few more toys. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That does look like a nice 1, put in an offer & see what he says?

 

Its worth it just to say its been 'cambelted' :LOL:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've asked when it was cambelted :LOL:

 

Got a day off so I've decided to spend all day on my 166.

 

I started by investigating the inch of travel on my clutch pedal before anything happens, by laying upside down in the footwell, not the most comfy of positions, I can see that where the clutch pedal and the master cylinder meet there is a lot of free play.

It looks like the pin that joins them has worn about 2mm of play at that point equates to about an inch at the pedal.

 

I've worked out that I could get the pin out with a bit of effort but not get it back in unless I either move the slave cylinder so the clutch is not pushing back on it and then the master cylinder or even more of a pain drain the system. :(

 

For now I've "fixed" it with a fuse puller and a cable tie shoved in the gap, not the best of solutions but it has halved the free play for now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Apart from the motor is there any difference between that and yours ? Does look good and its really hard to find a 3.0 .

If you got the money it's got to be worth a go ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mines a manual, I have electric adjustment for the seat back only, no cruise control and the paint work is not at its best.

 

My dilemma is that I've just spend £1,300 on mine to get it back on the road, its got a year tax and MOT, but if I were to sell it I would get very little for it.

I'm torn between my known quantity and a leap into the unknown.

 

Mine has got a couple of years left on the cam belt, the water pump was replaced for a metal impeller, the exhaust is stainless steel from the cat back, front suspension has been rebuilt, various brake pipes have been replaced, new down pipes on both banks plus a few other bits and pieces.

 

If I buy another I could be starting that process all over again.

 

I'm going to take it to a body shop next week and get a price for sorting the roof and various other marks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The interior doesn't look as good as yours. Is it worth making a good one out of both then selling yours with the worst of the bits as a doer up to regain a bit of cash. The body work looks good but need to see it up close to be sure. Will most of the new bits on yours swap to the other . Exhaust suspension etc..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The other consideration is if your clutch needs doing that's a large chunk unless you are doing it your self .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had very much the same thought process, I'm coming down on the side of running mine for a year at least then I will get some value from the money invested in it.

 

During that time I will have a go at learning the skills to correct some of the paint defect, stone chips small scratches etc.

 

Depending on the cost I will either get the roof done or spray it with a coat of lacquer to stop any further damage.

 

If and when the clutch goes will be the time to seriously look at changing car.

 

Whilst she's still running I shall enjoy driving, cleaning and generally fiddling. :)

 

Now I have a driveway and other cars at my disposal there is no problem with taking my time over things.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gave her back her face today

 

From this

 

_MG_5141.jpg

 

To this

 

_MG_5191.jpg

 

Then went for a different look

 

_MG_5193.jpg

 

The lower grill, below the number plate, is also missing I have a sheet of the same mesh to put in there.

 

Went to a body shop to get a price for sorting out various issues, asked how much to blow the whole car over £2.5-£3K, not sure I want to spend that amount of money.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That mesh looks good.

That's a lot of money for the paint work . How bad is the paint it doesn't look that bad in the photos.

Once you've done the wheels you will have learnt a lot of the skill to do some of the work on the paint. The most important thing when doing repair is the preparation and to get some well matched paint.

You need to look round for a auto paint shop that can match the paint to what's on the car.

If it is laquer only it is a matter of flating back the top surface and reapplying some fresh laquer.

Not quite that simple but basically that's what you do.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers :thumbs:

 

There are lots of stone chips, but the worst of it is the roof

 

_MG_5121.jpg

 

I have been having much the same thought process, do the wheels, possibly get a panel from a breakers for practice and then have a go myself, the worst I can do is fuck it up and its already fucked :LOL:

 

Plus there will be a lot more satisfaction in doing it myself. :)

 

There is a scratch along the drivers side where some fucker keyed it :mad: and a few door dings, if it all goes horribly wrong I can just use the money I didn't spend on a paint job on another car. :thumbs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It does sound like a lot of money K9d for the paint job.If its 2k primer base coat metallic and laquer it should be about a 1500 for a proper job.

Still not cheap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers :thumbs:

 

£1,500 is a lot more palatable than £3K, and brings it into the realms of being better to keep my know quantity.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is possible to do it yourself but the roof is difficult due to its size it's very hard to get a good even coverage if you're using cans.

You really need a spray gun for a large area. Just makes it easier any much better coverage. Not impossible though.

I think you need to try and find another car as that is going to be much cheaper than a paint job and it will be lost money .

You should be able to get a car for less than the paint work.

I would be tempted to have ago at tidying it up . Rub the laquer back with 800 grit dry then use it wet with a small amount of w/up liquid in the water as a lube then same with 1000/1200 grit. Clean with alcohol based panel wipe.

Then use a tack rag ( sticky cloth) to remove any grit or dust. You can get all of these things from halfrauds .

Then using several light coats of laquer build it up. Don't worry about getting a shinny finish just get 5/6 light coats on. Leave at least 20 mins between coats.

After the 4th coat leave for 24hrs to harden off. After lightly sand / smooth with 1200 grit. (Wet) then clean as before.

Then apply further 2 coats leave 48 hrs then try using med / fine rubbing compound to bring up the surface and see how it goes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers for the pointers. :thumbs:

 

I will give that a go.

 

Way ahead of you on the rattle cans, already bought a compressor and spray gun, the gun looks a bit cheap but I plan to practice on the wheels, may get a gun just for lacquer.

 

Need to either clean up my garage to get the car in or I can set up my 20' x 10' gazebo.

 

I figure as the roof is already knackered, I can't make it any worse.

 

At some point I will get the car up in the air and have a look at the underside for rust, that's the main killer of older cars.

 

Whatever I do I will run the car for a year to get value for money from the recent work done on it.

 

I find that now I'm older/calmer my driving is different and I regularly get into low to mid 30s MPG which makes driving more palatable. :LOL:

I can still get into low 20s when I want to though :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can relate to that. :LOL:

 

I'm more than willing to admit/accept my own limitations, what I lack in skill I make up for in enthusiasm.

I do have a bit of an ace up my sleeve, my eldest daughter has worked in a body shop as an apprentice and been to college where she was told she was very good at spraying.

I plan to let her practice on the Megane :LOL:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cheers for the pointers. :thumbs:

 

I will give that a go.

 

Way ahead of you on the rattle cans, already bought a compressor and spray gun, the gun looks a bit cheap but I plan to practice on the wheels, may get a gun just for lacquer.

)

If your using a gun for clear coats only mate make sure your needle tip size in the gun is no more than 1.4 mm.Any bigger and it will go on too heavy and run like piss all over the place :thumbs:

Make sure your fan setting is set wide also.

Use at least 1200 grit or higher wet and dry you only need the laquer to key to original surface so don't go mad :)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To get a decent finish K9d you need the correct pressure coming out from the gun so you need one of these don't know if you already have one

ba3u7agy.jpg

This is a cheap one but should be competent for what you have in mind.

Set gun up at 2 bar (29 psi) on gauge with trigger pressed.

:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers :thumbs:

 

My compressor has a valve/gauge on the outlet.

 

Not sure what size needle tip my on my gun, but I will practice on something before I let loose on anything important.

 

I've got to swap the bumper on the Megane, some twat hit it with a van :embarrassed:, so I can practice on the damaged one.

My daughter mentioned an inline filter is that something you would recommend ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most DIY compressors can chuck out at least 40 psi.

As long as your getting 2 bar at the gun with trigger pressed you should be fine.

You really need a gauge like pic I posted connected to the gun to get an accurate reading of what's coming out if your gun.

Think they bout 15-20 quid eBay

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...