Gibot123

sussed it got some 147 for sale pics at last what a plank

Well heads faced and pressure tested small line across the middle cyl fire ring area now all sorted. heads back tomorrow then the fun starts. W/pump .belts. Stupid tensioner procedures etc etc..... comes to something when the best place to get parts for your Italian stalion is Germany :Shame On You: Still weather permitting should be back together at weekend or early next week parts arriving on time of course Hopefully the Busso will live another 109,000 miles and put up with the bl@@@y english traffic without throwing all its water everywhere Quick thanks to (in order of appearence ) Smaky and LJ for support and emotional back up. Probably not finished annoying Smaky yet :He He: Cheers peeps. :im Not Worthy:

Right heads in today for pressure test and refacing I haven't been this nervous since the kids were born or the last MOT Just hope there ok . If they are though still means haven't found the problem . only thing left could be poor flow through the rad but that was new 2 years back and shows no sign of leaks.Water goes in and comes out the other end but not sure of the flow rate. Did however find a new in the box rear head which is the most difficult to find and a really good price . had a bit of a mare finding the right head gaskets too but have finally sourced some. If only I lived closer to Smaky I would probably have driven him insane though by now :Talking Ear Off: Fingers crossed and keep you posted Alfisti.

I dont think there is a cheap alternative more a case of shopping around . Bosh do copper alternatives if you can find them but you'd better see if Smaky knows how suitable they are,

No problem hope it helps

Right just waiting for a friend to pick the heads up now and get them checked. Hope they are ok as sourcing a replacement could prove difficult.

You need to make sure that the crank shaft is at TDC on the mark and use a TDC gauge on piston No. 1 and the cam locks then fit and all of these are still correct then it should be timmed correctly. http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13965640037948&key=62e3e4cb59bd65a7ef7794909cc9b782&libId=4cd5468c-ac92-4042-ba6e-ea0e0633fcbd&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.alfaowner.com%2FForum%2Falfa-147-156-and-gt%2F596313-good-pdf-for-cambelt-change-on-ts-16v-engine.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.alfatecnico.co.uk%2Fcar%2520mechanics.pdf&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.alfaowner.com%2FForum%2Falfa-147-156-and-gt%2Findex2.html&title=Good%20PDF%20for%20cambelt%20change%20on%20TS%2016v%20engine%20-%20Alfa%20Romeo%20Forum&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.alfatecnico.co.uk%2Fcar%2520mechanics.pdf

you can get the locks on ebay £25

Exellent cheers

Cheers I read up on not turnig the crank as the liners move .and dislodge the seal. Apart from the special tool is there anything I can use to hold the liners in place as could do with putting the car back on the wheels and rolling it across the car park to an out of the way bit as looks like this is going to take longer than I thought.( I obviously would not have it in gear)

Fan relays there are 2 . if I swap them over and this has made no difference should I assume that they are both bad or that the problem is not there. The fan works but only seems to have one stage but as said I swapped the relays over (which are Identical pins and part No.s) As said earlier I then changed the fan switch in the rad and that made no difference either. also the temp sensor on the thermostat housing for the ecu. Where should I check next. If I bridge the connector Suppling the fan switch I have 2 speeds but when its connected to the system I dont. As its apart would you recommend skimming the heads anyway to be safe or just re gasket and refit the heads. I know I've probably gone about this the wrong way but as said it's done and really need advice as to how to proceed .

the other thing is now its in bits I suppose I will get it skimmed and pressure tested before I put it back together. have got a new stat and aux belt and water pump ready to fit cam belt too. Just wondered if there was anything in the pics I sent that was cause for concern .

no dont have the gauge

the rad fan was working and the relays seem to be ok but the fan was coming on really late so I had changed the fan switch in the rad a couple of weeks back . Ihave just received a new expansion tank with cap . I do admit that it seems to have been an ongoing problem but has not boiled over till the other week Just seemed to be a little hotter than normal. just happened when I got home sat with the engine running for a couple of mins and noticed the temp had gone right up so switched it off and as I got out it let all the water go .

A lot of motor factor stores will have rolls of door/boot seals but you need to check the profile and size or look on ebay

Did u sort MJS brakes they didn't look good those discs.

It started over heating and throwing the water out of the expansion tank . It has a over flow pipe on the tank cap on these. and seems to boil over . it has had a slight miss at tick over but its not regular it is intermitant. it only loses coolant when it gets hot cant see any signs of water loss except when it chucks the water out .I thought origanally it was the water pump but that is fine no play in the shaft or bearing, so thought it could be pressure in the system due to the head gasket. having said that it drives fine just gets hot at stand still and boils over.

I'm sure smaky will sort it

Smaky got any idea why the water has been boiling out the fire rings on all the gaskets are solid the stat was opening all be it at bit late and the w/pump is fine . The rad is ok and changed the fan switch couple of weeks back as mater of course.No signs of leaks from pipe work and the h/matrix is good. Could the bits from the gasket sitting in the water jacket be causing circulation problems or should I be looking at a crack somewhere. I'm at a bit of a loss thought it would be a gasket failure but doesn't seem to be .

Looking at those pics the disc are shot and over heated . No wonder the brakes don't feel good.

You would be best to check with the car off the floor spin the wheel . You need to make sure that it releases properly as well as it activating. Very often a long pedal is air, worn parts (cylinder,caliper) or signs of a leak. As you say you have lost no fluid then go through the basics then see what you find .If you have recently changed parts it can be they are not adjusted properly.

Diva Diva is in lincs I think you could put a shout out see if she can help.

Smaky would be my preference but think hes a bit to far away in oxfordshire.Worth the trip though. There must be someone on here in your neck of the woods I would think.

It could be you have a problem with a rear caliper they can sieze(stick) on both 156 and 147''s or you may have worn discs or poor quality pads. You could need to bleed them. What do the discs look like do they look scored can you see a lip on the edge of the discs. When the engine is running and your foot is on the pedal does it sink down or stay solid.Lot of bits to check . The travel may mean they need bleeding.

got it done just in time then.