Smaky

All they have to do is split the upper ball joint then push the arm up and down and you'll probably get the squeak.

But as they are the only thing in that area that squeaks and every time we've had this question asked on every forum it has always been these bushes and knowing the scams and the workmanship that the company who fitted them for you have, then I am pretty confident they are the cause. The only other option is the lower arms but normally when they fail the steering center moves and thyres scrub away faster than usual.

You cant see it as it's inside the clutch rod housing.

If you've done all that then I will go along with your diagnosis, it very well could be the connectors to the sensors, they are pretty common connectors and are available through Fiat, Citroen, Peugeot, BMW, Merc or any other marque which has used the position sensors on throttle bodies or gearboxes.

He may have bent the roll pin that guides the pistons movement.

I'm thinking it's unlikely to be the connector, unless you have some poorly soldered connections, I would think that the car is still on the original battery and this is starting to degrade, have you tested the battery? Normally they don't show problems till you do the drop test (this shows how many CCA it really can produce), if it drops too low then it can clear the learnt parameters in the ECU which will then think there is a problem with the sensors and this could be when you are getting the problems.

As there is only 1 nut in that picture then there can only be one choice as to which is the locking nut. BUt I can see straight away that the rod in the picture is adjusted too short.

I think the problem is most likely to be the engagement sensor, on the GTA SS this is located on the selector block underneath the ABS unit, The sensors can be swapped round to see if the fault moves, and if it does then you have proved it is the sensor.

That then proves it is the upper arm bushes.

The question is if you have a mk1 or mk2 Variator, they both look the same from the outside and they both have the same part number, but the fact is that the repair kit is useless, a few weeks later the noise will be back because it's not the spring or the spacer in the kit which has work but the actual spindle and case of the variator itself and these can only be replaced by replacing the whole thing, so the repair kit is useless. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-ALFA-ROMEO-145-146-155-166-GTV-SPIDER-New-Camshaft-Variator-55202772-/181586295395?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a4762fa63

Yes. The locking issue is going to be the rods mis-shaped from people removing the door card in the past, easy to bend them the wrong way but hard to correct it.

OK I think this is going to be a simple one. This is a 147 so between the battery and thermostat is a large plug (the selespeed loom connector) and Selespeed pump relay, I think that there is either an issue with the wiring to the relay or even more simply the relay just is not sat properly in the holder, you may have knocked it when doing the adjustments, just make sure it's sat correctly in the holder, then go for a drive and see if all is normal, if there is still a problem, then it may be the pump motor wearing out. There is a guide on how to replace the brushes of the motor if you have the older style which can save you a couple of hundred Euros (especially if you're Greek).

There should be 2 of those, they sit in the case BEFORE you refit the selector shaft, you also have to get the selectors perfectly Neutral before the last shaft will slide past the 2 rollers. You still nedd to find the pin which is smaller than that. The best thing to sit a box on for splitting is a Black and Decker Workmate, use the holes in it tables to locate the studs in the box, a 1 inch piece of wood opposite the diff to balance it and then NOTHING will fall out as you split it down.

OK, there's the problem, they use the cheap shitty ones and pass them off as the expensive ones and they don't grease them. Take it back and complain, I bet if you phone they'll say give it a few weeks and it'll go away. IT WONT, if it squeaks, it is wearing itself away and will only get worse until it starts to knock again. The next time you phone, they'll check their complaints numbers list and just wont answer your call.

Drop link???

Sometimes the obvious is too.... obvious.

Firstly check there is fluid in the sele reservoir, then you'll need software and a cable to go any further, as I think your problem is going to be the clutch rod length (as usual), this needs to be set to 28 - 28.5mm, I'd recommend www.multiecuscan.net for the software and a VagCom KKL lead.

You've done that completely wrong. The end plate off first, remove the 5th gear stuff, remove the 2 circlips from the bearings, remove mount plate, remove the selector shaft rollers x3, remove reverse gear locator bolt, remove center case, remove reverse selector arm, remove 10mm bolts from selectors, remove selector rods (do not lose the small pins inside them) and forks, recover the rollers from the shaft holes, remove gearshafts, remove diff. I am now lost on how you are going to reassemble your box from the way you've opened it.

Hold the big one still and undo the smaller one that goes into it.

All SWs in the UK came with the Sportpack, your local market may have opted not to do this.

Upper wishbone bushes are the favourite, if the arms have been replaced with cheap ones in the past then the bushes will not be greased.

By removing the inlet manifold and looking

The answer is No.

So, as I said to start, it's not the gearbox but the way it's been setup. I'm just concerned that you're saying 18mm when it should be 28mm.

That's the blue KKL one then which has done well not to fry itself sooner. As soon as Rarebear does what he does to them the main K line is overloaded and this eventually blows one of the diodes on the board in the plug, the better way to do it is to use one of those leads, NOT MODIFIED, and the use the red/green/yellow/purple adapters which are specifically for that purpose and will only load the lead with the right ecu connection.