peter2

may I ask you to circle the roll pin in the picture so that I can inspect it myself? thanks a lot! PS are we littering the original topic?

so, since i just have had it adjusted, should i be worried by the fact that my mechanic adjusted it without loosening the nut, and acting on the bolt only??? he moved it from 29.2 to 28.1 mm (real time FES reading), and, after the calibration procedure, the reading dropped to 27.8.

Hi all, I'm posting on behalf of a friend of mine, who, good for him, owns a stunning 147 GTA SS, which occasionally slips into N from 1st, both with car moving and at rest; after that it would not engage 1st any more, and he is forced to take off in 2nd. Sometimes it does not give any error on BC. When an error is detected and stored, it is the ""gear position/engage sensor". It is necessary to say that long ago he substituted the big multipole connector (N20?) with a waterproof, high-end, compliant to military prescriptions one. In order to temporary solve the problem he just needs to unplug and plug again the the connectors to those sensors, sometimes even just moving the wires a little works. Every 2-3000 km the problem is there again. is the problem in the sensors, the wiring or the gear? thanks

hi, isn't the 18mmm the reading with engine running? anyway, smaky, you highlighted LOCKED previously: based on the picture attached which is the locking bolt and which the regulation one?

thanks for the explanation when you say "faulty accumulator" you mean with a hole in the membrane? is it the only way for an accumulator to fail?

i had replaced the ev0 at 100k km (now the car has 170k km), while the accumulator has never been changed...so i supposed the latter would be the one to blame....damn! :Black Eye: almost 100 euros thrown away! may i ask why the timing of primes makes you so confident on blaming the ev0 seals?

with both engine running or off it primes every 1-2 mins. i wonder why you have such a hhuge difference between the two situations.

8s is WAY too often! the problem is that, as for my case, the fast drop of the pressure could be due to both a faulty accumulator or an internal leakage, or both! i will change mine anyway....170k km are enough, its time to retire!

thanks eivindcl, why on earth don't i receive emails on post replies?? Anyway, i read some old topics stating that exactly the same symptoms can be either caused by a faulty accumulator or a faulty seal on some ev....which way should i try first? maybe both? PS is Smaky still around?

no hints? BTW I'm having difficulties in finding a cheap (<60 euros) accumulator...is it normal?

Hi guys! I'm very happy because my ss has been running flawlessly for over a year now (however i have to admit that my miling has gone down a lot though). while checking for the status of the clutch rod (i found it is 29.2 mm, so soon i will reset it), i found that the time between two pump primes is less than two minutes (no operation in the meanwhile obviously): isn't it too short? Now the question: is it the accumulator or something else? then what could it be? my accumulator has 170k Km... thanks a lot!

why don't you swap them anyway?

smaky can i answer? ok thanks! the relay is fixed to the same support the main connector of the sele actuator is fixed: it's between the battery and the engine. as i wrote above, you can try to flip it with the the one located below the steering wheel (if your windows don't work anymore but your sele does it is the murderer)

problem fixed! it was the relay: i bought a new one from local dealer (15 euros). given it's not the same brand as the original one, i preferred to use it for the windows, and stick it under the steering wheel. I opened the fault one, and found out that it's malfunctioning is very likely to be caused by a dirty contact: i cleaned it and saved it for the next relay fault, as there are several in the car that are prone to die. i strongly reccomend to try cleaning it before buying a new one. thanks all.