Smaky

The hubs themselves are the same on 147s, GTs and 156s, TS, JTS JTD, JTDm and 2.5V6 versions. GTAs and 3.2 GTs use different uprights and hubs due to the Brembo brakes and larger CV joints. The ABS sensors are as you suspect age related, earlier ones use the white connectors and later the black, but if you're lucky and have patience you can soak the sensors in Plusgas and gently wiggle them out (SOMETIMES).

Sounds like a connector is wobbling around, but if it aint broke...

28mm - 28.5, shorter the better

Not at all, just that it threw a wobbly, normally it's a one off thing and once the connectors are dried out and resealed it never happens again.

I did the cambelt and brakes on it a few years ago but haven't seen it since.

Different engines start with different gaps, it's hard to say but if you're getting more than 5 degrees of dwell on the TDC then it's time to think about new shells.

Hi, I've read through all that and had a good ponder over what is occurring. The MAF readings are erratic as I'd expect with a lumpy idle. I take it that a full top end rebuild was carried out in which case I hope the injectors were cleaned too as these can cause major issues. But I think my first thought on this will prove to be the problem. You've replaced the exhaust with a total decat system?? You've also only fitted the 2 pre-cat lambdas leaving the 2 post-cat lambdas out.... this is where I think the problem is, the ECU is expecting the signals from all 4 lambda sensors, because 2 are missing it's putting itself in limp mode, the missing sensors also will make the ECU over fuel as it doesn't know if the cats (which you've removed) are working and without the post-cat lambdas again it throws in more fuel to compensate for that too. All this fuel being thrown in should be giving you clouds of white smoke and VERY poor fuel economy not to mention poor power or torque, it will pick up mid range as it will always get closer to the scotiatic point the more it's revved up as there comes a point where it cannot supply more fuel and the airflow will be almost correct for it. The variable air intake manifold is vacuum operated with an electrical control solenoid, the valve sit naturally in the extended position but if you wish to check the pneumatic valves is ok then you can move it by hand to overcome the spring, you can also test the solenoid with MES and listen for the click. Overall though you need to refit the 2 missing Lambdas and get the remap done so that it doesn't think the cats are missing.

You can use any SELESPEED box from either a 156, 147 or GT, but crunching in 2nd is normally just a clutch rod and calibration, but there is always debris involved and it's best to strip and clean out the gearbox.

I think that you've splashed the actuators electrics, normally just disconnecting the battery, holding the red and black wires together for a few seconds then reconnecting the battery sorts this.

IMO 1/2litre / 1000 miles is too much, though the official limit is 1L/1000Miles.

The longer the dwell angle the more gap (wear) there is to the bearings

2 ideas to start. 1, Take off the drivers door connector and check the wiring into the back of the plug to ensure they are all pushed in correctly and that none of the wires are shorting each other, also do the same with the socket side in the body, also check to see if the interior light is coming on when this is happening. 2, Check the wiring to the pump relay is sound and I'd also replace the relay in case.

TDC is the centre of the "dwell" when the piston is at the highest point. The dwell is created by the lubrication gap between the big and little end shells and can be used to diagnose excessive wear within the engine.

The diagnosis isn't thorough and I wouldn't use it as conclusive, best thing to do is have the fault codes read and go from there.

No, if you block the pipes then you WILL blow the engine, the crankcase pressure must be released. Your problem may be a leaking intake manifold gasket.

The facelift one may not fit because of the master spline.

Yep, 30 mins of sele diags usually kills it.

That box has had loads of water in too which would lead me to think the driveshaft seals are torn.

http://eper.fiatforum.com/eper/navi?COUNTRY=012&GRP_COD=212&SBMK=R&DRIVE=D&MAKE=R&COMM_MODEL=156&CAT_COD=X1&MOD_COD=116&SGRP_COD=15&ALL_FIG=0&LANGUAGE=3&NEW_HTTP=TRUE&PREVIOUS_KEY=SUBGROUP&ALL_LIST_PART=0&SB_CODE=-1&KEY=SUBGROUP_7&PRINT_MODE=0&EPER_CAT=SP&WINDOW_ID=1&GUI_LANG=3

It's good, but it's not quite Carling.

Engine ECU is on the intake manifold and Sele ECU (51857903) is under the carpet at the front of the passengers footwell.

OK, sounds like a wiring issue between the Engine ECU and Sele ECU.

Pedal sensor is part of the pedal, To test them you need to connect MES and watch the figures as you press the pedal gently to ensure they rise and fall steadily.

This sounds like either the throttle pedal sensor or the throttle body may be the fault, something like a dead spot on the tracks.

I was indeed, the rectangular hole.