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Smaky

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Everything posted by Smaky

  1. The air filter should be replaced annually as this will affect the CO level when it clogs up, this lowers the Lambda figure and can in extreme cases cause the codes you're getting as the Lambdas will tell the ECU that more fuel is required which is actually the opposite of what the engine really needs to maintain it's 17:1 air-fuel ratio. I ran my JTS on the gas analyser today and it was through the roof at idle, air fuel was 11:1 (way too rich) at idle, but get the revs up to 3000rpm and the figures came back to near enough spot on. This I would conclude is a CAT issue, oil contamination from the excess consumption. I've put a bottle of cataclean in today and shall do the 50 miles and fill her up tomorrow, run her for the week and then test her again next weekend.
  2. You need to run live diagnostics to see the clutch speed as you were driving along
  3. Smaky

    New Exhaust

    Should have gone DTM with that skirt
  4. Well I have a 156 JTS too for a dialy hack which is now on 158,000miles and also does this, I do have a very experienced theory on this though. You haven't mentioned oil consumption, I bet this is high??? I know the power is there, but when your on gas is there quite a bit of smoke??? The codes are relating to CAT efficiency, when cold mine throws these up too and when it does I can feel a slight misfire as the lambdas try to overfuel the engine to compensate, but rev it a bit and get the needle off the 50 mark and the MCSF stops and running smooths out. Does that explain how yours runs too??? Have you done a compression test??? I have and I know that 2&3 are higher than 1&2, I also suspect the head gasket has gone on mine due to the requirement of a monthly coolant top up and I know the system isn't leaking externally as I can pressurise it and it doesn't. SO in conclusion I know that my engine has worn pistons on 2&3, with a possible head gasket issue between those 2 cylinders, this is allowing excess oil into the combustion chamber which is contaminating the MANIVERTOR, BUT I use a bottle of CATACLEAN twice a year which has always got the emmisions back down to pass the test and for about 3 months after I don't get the codes, so I'd recommend you get a bottle of CATACLEAN (available from eurocarparts in the UK for £15) add it to 1/4 tank of petrol, run it for 50 miles and then fill up the tank and see if the problem goes away, as the warning code is based on the Lambdas reading high CO then it is also worth replacing the air filter so the engine can breath easier. The only thing I haven't mentioned is the direct injection, because the injectors are in the cylinder and not the inlet manifold this also creates a fueling issue, they coke up quickly, the cataclean though also cleans these if they aren't too bad to begin with, but the main problem is the cat is contaminated and this stuff is the best at rejuvenating a dirty cat that I've used.
  5. Smaky

    New Gtv!

    Take off the big black cover on the drivers side of the engine bay, then it will be obvious.
  6. Smaky

    New Gtv!

    Relays are pretty easy to test, power the small pins and see if continuity is across the main ones, most relays have a diagram on the side and the pins are numbered so it's pretty simple.
  7. Smaky

    New Gtv!

    A step up from a 20V tractor. Anyway the issues you have there are all conjucent with the group of relays behind the O/S headlight. EXCEPT the door locks, that one is probably a badly fitted door card or bent door knob bar. Nothing that couldn't be sorted in a day, and the key is probably just a button...I have loads of them here.
  8. I'm not ruling out and ECU fault though, I'm wondering if it's been spiked during a jump start.
  9. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Without-Cable-Intermotor-Crankshaft-Pulse-Sensor-Genuine-Replacement-Engine-CKP-/141470185798?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20f047b946
  10. P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0725 Engine Speed input Circuit Malfunction It's actually pointing to the crank sensor now, I haven't seen it do this before but I wonder if the crank sensor beginning to fail sends a frequency on the CANbus (this is a facelift) which generates these codes depending on the windings decay.
  11. I'm thinking that the motor is just bedding in the brushes, the noise should quieten down, but the humming is normal
  12. The EV valves are all different and should not be used in different positions.
  13. If you run a 146 on 4 plugs then 1+2 are on primaries and 3+4 are on secondaries, not really an issue as a lot of the race teams do this, but they are running different ECUs with maps designed for the engine, yours would be confused and running underpower as the second spark is there to increase flow speed of the gases aiding the fluid dynamics of the engine and increasing efficiency.
  14. I wouldn't think so, I think the issue will lie in the connection you've made
  15. Get the correct tool .... http://www.totallyalfa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=main.dspProduct&id=5
  16. I was just about to say I've got an actuator loom we can swap over, but now at least you have it at the clutch speed sensor wiring.
  17. Remaps on the JTS do work better, but the engines just don't last long enough to justify doing anything to them.
  18. 1, If you remove the endplate from the gearbox and remove all debris from there then this will help the box to select reverse easirer. (but the only gear you can see there is 5th, reverse is right inside the box), the problem is caused by debris physically stopping the selectors sliding. 2, Don't waste your time or money on a remap, they don't work on the TS engine. It has a learning ECU and will just revert to how it thinks it runs best, which will be how it is now. The V6 "S" pipe will make a better sound, but that is about it, you just can't get more air in than the inlet ducts allow. And those clutch kits are a waste of money too.
  19. If you have Examiner, then yes, but the software needs to be ripped, adjusted then uploaded again, swapping the ECU for the JTS one is not going to work.
  20. I know, I had issues with them previously and now try to avoid dealing with them.
  21. The cheapest and most effective way is to get a VAG-com lead and MultiECUscan
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