Smaky

Sounds about right, I guess the cover was missing as usual

I'd think that if the EV0 is fine then it is a clutch self calibration issue. But also make sure the clutch itself is setup correctly too

Which cable are you using?

9/16" swan neck spanner would do.

If gear selection becomes jerky, the first thing to check is the clutch rod length which should be 28 - 28.5mm, if that is fine, then a 2nd gear pull away upto 3000rpm and then stop will smooth things out. if that doesn't then consider replacing the O-rings on the EV0 valve, but unplug the pump and make some gear selections to depressurise the system before you remove the valave, even then it WILL SQIRT FLUID OUT UNDER ABOUT 40 BAR (600psi) so be careful.

All you need to do is fit the lambda to the lower position and blank off the other 2 holes, be it with dead lambdas or plugs.

I think you're crossing a line that shouldn't have been drawn in the first place, the best way to go is to buy the car you want, not build it (in this case), there are some out there, but they all have issues and and it would be cheaper to solve an 'off the shelf' car than build from scratch with a load of unknowns.

Are you trying to connect to the correct sele ecu? Sometimes trying to connect to another models sele ecu gets you in with that software. The selection of all gears with the ignition at MAR and engine not running is correct, start the engine and then you should only be able to get 1,2 or R, that is to prevent you pulling away in to high a gear.

A selespeed Saloon will have sportpack springs.

It would be easier to take the parts from the sele box to repair the duff manual one.

Does the ABS light "test£ when you first turn the ignition on? And as you have surmised I too feel that this is an earth point issue. Some info though.... the speed signal is produced by the ABS wheel sensors, the ABS unit compares the signals and sends it to the engine ecu, from there it goes to the speedo head where on the sele models there is a tap off which passes it on to the sele ECU, if the car is changing gears as it should and with this fault I'd make sure it is dropping gears correctly when you slow to a stop, then the first thing to replace after checking all the connections are sound is the speedo head.

The only thing that limits power is the damn euro emission limits, get rid of them and we could all run round in 200Bhp 1.6s

I'd recommend this one. http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Alfa+Romeo_156_2.0_2002/p/car-parts/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/electrical/car-battery/?444770270&1&989455a6652e149cc35ecf2436e6eca454dabe6d&000020

It was there to ignite the remaining gases to create an increase in pressure whithin the cylinder 5 degrees after the exhaust valves opened allowing a faster flow through the ports aiding the fluid dynamics through the mill. It also provided an average of 20BHP on top of the single plug normally aspirated engines of the time.

There was a rework to the piston ring spacing when the GT got it but all the other problems remained, and as they wanted to go back to chains then the 2.0 JTS was dead anyway, so development of the 2.0 JTS was halted in favour of the 2.2 and 3.2 JTS' used in the 159, Brera/Spider etc.

Yes, you have the sportpack springs. Generally, if you have a TS SW it has the sports springs fitted. There are only 4 options, TS/JTS/JTD/2.5, 3.2, Police or Cold climate. It's the shocks that make the greatest difference.

I'm not biased in this, I have all the engines I've listed in my fleet, the 2.0 JTS when young is a cracking engine, but like a middle aged house wife, when it hits 40 everything starts to go south.

The JTS was tested in the 147, but as this is a hairdressers car they decided to just stick with the TS, JTD and V6, though the GT (based on the 147) did get the JTS the warning bells were ringing about the poor longevity of the engine and when the facelift time of the 147 approached the JTS idea was scrapped by the bean counters at FIAT, mainly because the twinair was on the way and it was costing a bomb, basically the JTS is a train wreck of an engine design, basically a hybrid of the TS and Ecotec I can only say there is one good thing about it, when it is on song, no other normally aspirated engine can deliver the power (165Bhp against the 2.0TS' 155 or 150 dependant on euro cat) with such volume or smoothness throughout the range, but that doesn't last long and after about 50K miles you're topping up the oil more than fuel tank, suffering misfires as the coils burn out, failing emmisions as the pistons wear away, blowing head gaskets as the water manifold leaks, loosing power as the injectors clog up with soot and constantly getting failing Lambda warnings for no reason other than GM couldn't spec the design for the connectors with long enough pins in the contacts.

Alfa did answer the problems with the JTS, they stopped using the engine pdq.

It wont need a proxy then, just needs the windows reseting

The release arm bushes are 55221732 and 55221733, the STANDARD release bearing is 46465174 and the Tangs are on the pressure plate... the fingers the release bearing pushes on.... and basically they have said that they sold you a clutch kit and will not support you with any issues you have with it, even if it is a pile of shite.

The problem here is this is an engine type with multiple renowned problems on the fuel and ignition systems. The most common issue is the lambda plugs, the pins are too short and barely make a connection, I've seen various solutions for this and even the dealers will cut the plug out and hard-wire the lambda into the circuit, though even this doesn't solve it in some cases. Then there are the coil packs made of cheese, these can blow at any time, and if there are any still working after 60,000Km then I'm astounded, to confound this the connectors again, work loose and this causes a weak signal to fire them, so there's 2 more possibles. Next is the rocker gaskets (main + plugs), any of those leaking and oil will get to the plugs, also if you spill any during topups that will go to #1, any oil down the plugwells will create a path to ground and the plugs will not provide a strong enough spark to ignite the fuel meaning high HC in the emmisions and the lambdas will try to trim fueling, this then causes the lumpy idle and poor economy. Piston ring wear is a huge issue on this engine, they appear to be made of balsa wood and no matter what oil is used seem to evaporate faster than a line of shots at an AA meeting, these allow oil to pass too easily, increasing the CO reading and contaminating the cats and clogging up the injectors which then loose their spray pattern and there goes the CO limit again.

If you have MultiECUScan then it's worth doing a Proxi Alignment on the body computer, especially if the odometer is flashing too, otherwise the reset using the window switches should work, if it is not though then the battery may need replacing as it's not enjoyed being flattened for so long.

The proper way to go to diagnose Cat faults is to test the gases before the Cats, but on a JTS the only way to do that is to fit a CF2 manifold and exhaust then check the gas, but that is a hell of a long winded way to go,

All that equals..... Time for a new MANIVERTOR.