Alfa156Melb

Using that graphic 1 - Pre cats 2 - flexible section 3 - Main Cat (also called a catalized silencer) 4 - Resonator 5 - Backbox ePer shows a very different picture in their graphics.. other drawings of the system also vary.. .. Let Smaky confirm or tell me I'm a bell end!

As i understand it, its the one after the pipe goes into a single system.. just after where it goes from two into one.

Yeah they are precats.. the cat is more or less under the engine.. sort of mid way under the car. Then you have a resonator (Small silencer) and then the back box. but i believe its the pre cats that glow... What's MES report as your engine temp? Cheers, Dave

He's saying that the temp numbers that MES/FES reports are more accurate that the sensor in the thermostat. So if you plug MES in, go to parameters and look for Engine temp - that's the number you want. The cats are right in front of the engine, on the extractors.. Under the heat shield.

Just took the car for a run and for some reason it feels more lively.... I didn't expect that..

F1? MotoGP - now that's where the skill is...

The electrode looks good... I only changed them because having recently replaced the engine, not knowing its full history.. and they werent expensive.. so why not. A P0300 was there, along with a P0304.. so replaced the coil with a new one. Anyway, that's good news.. happy days

Smaky, after MES throwing a PO304 fault, I've replaced my number 4 coil pack and decided to replace all the spark plugs while I was at it just to be sure. To my eye, they look fairly dirty - not too bad but there's certainly carbon there.. The engine is running fine, nothing stands out other than maybe a lack of power over 4000RPM. I suspect that will be carbon build up in the inlets. Anyway, there's no symptoms, I'm just interested in your feedback. Most of my driving is highway or open road: 80 - 100kph.. and a small amount of city driving. I rarely drive the car hard (Fuel prices!) and really never red line it. Have a look at the pic, I'd appreciate your opinion.. A possible cause of the carbon, apart from it being a JTS, is my thermostat.. on the gauge I get 70 degrees, on MES it's perfect: 80 - 90 degrees. I'm inclined to believe MES and suspect a lazy temp sensor on the thermo.. Anyway, I thought it worth mentioning..

Yeah.. it's changed its name now.. MultiEcuScan... MES I prefer FES though.

Ah cool, thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Smaky, are you able to provide a full How To for rear rotor and pad replacement (156) please? Would you also replace the handbrake cable as a matter of course? or leave them if they are in good nick? Also, EB Spares only sell the left and right cable.. not the centre one... would that normally not require replacement?

Well, thats the side where the suspension creaking is coming from.. so there you go. I'll get on to that.

Oh. so all FES does is initiate a test within the ECU... I thought the number crunching happened within FES.

I've decided to stick to the 205/55 16's.. its what the car's designed for and as you say, less expensive.. Given im about to replace the rear rotors and pads, service it, replace a door trim, repaint the front bumper and upgrade the dampers.. I'm feeling a little poor right now. Although I noticed today that the pax side front tyre has uneven wear.. the tyre is bald an inch in from the inside edge.. so add to that a wheel alignment.. I hope that's the cause anyway. Pity, cos the tyre has about 40% left on the outside. grr.

Eh.. I grew up around these cars.. its bred into me.

Smaky, are you able to provide a full How To for rear rotor and pad replacement (156) please? Would you also replace the handbrake cable as a matter of course? or leave them if they are in good nick? Also, EB Spares only sell the left and right cable.. not the centre one... would that normally not require replacement?

I'd replace my current 156 JTS with a 156 GTA But i'd keep the JTS, I'll never sell her.

They're veteran cars, not classics.. but wow, a rare sight indeed! Veteran cars are up to about 1918 - pre WW1 Vintage pre war - 1919 - 1939 Vintage post war - 1940 - 1960 (although that differs alot) Classic 1960 to 1990.. although some even say, a car that's 15years or older.. opinions will vary

I agree... our boundaries are getting very very mirky these days.. lets take SUV's.. not a car, not a 4wd. not a wagon (estate in your language) or a hatchback. not a sedan. not a coupe. in fact I fail to see what they actually are? What I know is they do nothing.. absolutely nothing well. All they really do is get in your way, look pretentious and often contain ball sacks inside that think they're superior because they're in an SUV! Yet in reality, they have fully embraced mediocrity and are completely oblivious to it! I mean.. an SUV.. they're useless offroad and Onroad they resemble a shopping trolley with a dicky wheel. They get in your way and you cant see around them. They cost more to buy, run, repair because of their all wheel drive system that offers no benefit whatsoever - so you may as well not even have it! They're even offering two wheel drive SUV's... . (where's the 'head slap' smiley gone???) This is all about bad breeding - it's as if some drunken 4WD decided it would be a great idea to shag a Nissan Micra.. It was never going to be good. But for some balls up reason, it caught on! And don't even get me started on SPORT SUV's!! God, now we're raping the English language. Now we have a barista in a FIAT? I bet it can't make a proper latte!!? Seriously, as a coffee lover, this is complete bollocks and borderline blasphemy.

I tried it again last night, and as soon as I pressed the execute button, FES threw up a Test Completed Window - status 00.. didnt even have time to turn the motor on.. Not having much luck here.

OK so I want to do this adjustment on my 156, but the instructions in FES don't make sense - Gearbox - CFC208F They are: 1. press execute with engine off 2. Start engine 3. Turn key to off, then back to MAR - (THIS is where i'm confused.. wouldnt that disconnect FES from the ECU thus killing the routine?) 4. Start in 2nd gear with accelerator fully depressed, bringing the engine to 3000RPM then release. has anyone else done this with any success? pulling away in first gear, especially when the clutch is cold is and has always been rough. Ive adjusted the clutch lever to 28mm, calibrated and no luck. That made a huge difference generally, especially once warmed up. But on a cold clutch, it's still not right. I'm hoping that maybe the bite point may be the culprit.

Just a thought, if i were to arrange my own freight at this end, would you be interested in supplying the parts?