flyblo5

Selespeeds are not as troublesome as people would have you think, as long as you look after them, the biggest problem is garages that don't understand them and/or see them as a licence to print money. Keep them serviced and adjusted correctly and they will be no more trouble than any other box. My 156 sele did the thick end of 200k before the box gave up. We also have a selespeed guru on here so don't fret. City mode is a sort of auto in that you do not change gear yourself as it does it automaticly but it is still a manual gearbox with a hydraulic clutch control so does not feel like a proper auto. Not a fan of City mode myself but put it in semi auto and give yourself time to get used to it and you see just how much fun it can be. The only thing that can catch you out is if you don't change gear and it thinks you should it will change for you. If you happen to leave it a bit late and change at the same time as the car does you can easily skip a gear, but you soon get to know it. I love Sele's any would not want anything else now.

I feel quite

Important safety tip. Keep away from the septics.

But how do we KNOW Tim is real, after all that was the name BT gave to the talking clock.

Bit the bullet and got some GTA uprights

Sorry Smaky, not been able to get on for a few days and have managed to source the springs although not as cheap as you have managed. Serves me right for not checking the forum more. Any problems with these and i'll come back to you.

Is Tim a real person or a generic user name operated by the marketing department at prestige to enable them to post on Car forums? Discuss

Cheers Smaky, Knew you would come up trumps

I think I may have answered my own question. It seems I have purchased Eibach Sportline springs which are much lower (45mm) than the pro street (30mm) which is much cl;oser to the 25mm drop on the original Sportpack. Any confirmation will still be welcome.

I am having a bit of trouble finding the correct springs for my 2001 Selespeed Veloce Sportwagon. As i understand it the Veloce spec superseeded the Sportpack option on the 156 and included 16" alloys, side skirts and one or two interior upgrades, plus slightly lower, stiffer suspension on the Saloon models while the Sportwagons were kept to a cosmetic upgrade only, with the standard suspension, but i always thought my car sat slightly lower than other sportwagons. My problem is trying to find the correct springs to fit to my car to give it the same stance as it had before my mamoth rebuild. First off i fitted a set of Eibach pro street springs but they dramatically lowered it all round making it look stupid. Off they came (and as soon as everything is finished they will be heading for ebay) and on went a set of good quality aftermaket standard springs, cross matched with the vin number. These make her sit higher than before so she has lost that lovely stance she used to have. When comparing with the old springs the rears seem to have an extra coil. Can't compare the fronts as they were broken and have been binned. So, either the new standard spring i have are incorrect (but that doesn't explain why she used to sit lower than most) or maybe at some point she has been fitted with "proper" veloce springs or slightly lowered using aftermarket springs. Any explainations, ideas or better still part numbers so i can get the correct items would be welcome.

Welcome aboard, hope you know what you are letting yourself in for.

Does it have the Selespeed Gearbox or one of those silly manual things?

In order of my chances of actually getting one 156 Sportwagon Selespeed (got one). Love the Selespeed gearbox and think Sportwagons have better lines than the 4 door boot thingys Any sort of Sud (except Sprint) Just love 'em 155 Q4 Proper Classic in the making. Always wanted a 155 and this has to be the one to get / keep 156 GTA Sportwagon Selespeed. Not a popular combination but in my opinion the ultimate 156

Not my Car but must be worth saving from the scrap heap. 1996 N plate 155 1747cc Twin Spark. 83,000 miles, Metalic Blue in good condition. Everything works, MOT to Aug 2014. £475 Will be scrapped if not sold. Call Dave on 07731 948738. If i had the room i'd have it in a heartbeat. Located in Ridgemont, between Bedford and Milton Keynes. M1 junction 13.

Don't panic, just wait for smaky to apear and all will be well.

I've started to dribble, and from the mouth

In general i'm not a big fan of white cars but i think the Giulietta is an exception to the rule. Nice car.

You have. Apart from the obvious Engine & gearbox you will ned to change the front Springs & Shocks (Diesel lump is heavier) ECU, Engine wiring loom, Radiator, countless sensors and switches,Fuel Tank filler pipe (if not the whole tank), Exhaust, Engine mounts and lots more stuff will become aparent when you start. Plus there's the time involved if you are doing it yourself, or the massive labour charges if your not. That's assuming it will fit. The 147 was only ever fitted with the 4 cylinder 1.9L unit (certainly in this country and as far as i'm aware any other). The 2.4 is a 5 Cylinder unit and will be about 20% longer and may not fit in the hole. Plus there's the whole DVLA thing, You will need to tell them of the change which will alter the amount of road tax you have to pay. Don't suppose the insurance company will be to thrilled either. Actually the probably will because the can charge you more for having a modified car. Honestly mate, just by a Diesel 147. Much easier and cheaper. I'm sure Smaky will be along in a bit with a piece of virtual 4x2 to talk some sense in to you.

The problem with second hand engines is that unless you know the last owner it's guesswork, and trying to find a low mileage unit is getting harder. It's all well and good when the breakers offer you a 30 warrenty, but you still have to get the bugger out again and return it if you have a problem. Depending on your location you could try RGWM on 156.net (if you're up norff) he's pretty reasonably priced and won't sell you a duff.

and easier

Had mine done a couple of weeks ago. Crank regrind £15.00 per face so if they all need doing £135.00 Oversize Big End Brg £32.05 per set (4 Pairs) Oversize Main Bearings £33.33 per set (5 Pairs) Crankshaft Thrust Bearings £7.34 per set Small End Bearings £5.44 per set (4) although they will need to be machined and honed to match each Gudeon Pin individually at about £12.50 each. Although it has to be said these very rarely need replacing. Piston Rings £90.56 pet set (4 cylinders) if you are interested. You will aldo need to replace the Oil Seals at both ends £5.28 and £32.40 respectivly and Oil Pump Gasket (some say you can remove the Crank without removing the oil Pump but i've never managed it) £19.18 (all Alfa workshop /Jamie porter). You then have to give our friends in Westminster an additional 20% for the pleasure of spending your own money. As far as Do's and Dont's go. Make sure you mark all Big end Caps (and Con Rod/Piston assembly if you are removing them) so you can match them up again on re-assembly. It's always best to keep them in the origanal pairings. The same with the Main Bearing Caps although they should have markings om them. Remove the Thrust bearings (located down the side of the central Main beaing on the block) before removing the Crankshaft and note which way round they go. It saves confusion later. When you rebuild make sure everything is CLEAN, CLEAN,CLEAN and when you've done that CLEAN AGAIN. Have fun

It's not getting robbed 'cos i'm not getting them

Found 1 pair for £376.00.

Link not working

If I could find any I would !!!