Smaky

Yep, mount has failed, extremely rare to see that on these cars as the mount is a solid bush, the spring will need compressing to replace that at which time you may find the shocks are knackered too. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALFA-ROMEO-156-147-GT-ALL-MODELS-New-Front-Shock-Absorber-Top-Mount-60625002-/181420210431?fits=Car+Make%3AAlfa+Romeo%7CModel%3A156&hash=item2a3d7cb8ff

Do you mean the 4 studs which come up into the engine bay or the long bolt which holds the arm to the mount? An easyt way to check if the mount is in the correct position is to see if the structure around unused hole is buckled, if it is then whoever changed the arms didn't bother to do it right and never bothered to sit the arm support in place before tightening the nuts.

I'll be in front of the mirror practicing...

I am reading....

First prize to me...

Are you using a pipe spanner?

That's better.

If you're in the SW then I can take a look at it for you.

Just the sensors then.

Nope, the selector remains in the case.

That part number is one of the position sensors, and itself can not be the leak as it is electrical with no hydraulic connection. BUT oil can pass through it as there are gaps which are actually there to allow the box to breathe, the problem though is more than likely an o-ring seal on one of the pistons or between the back plate and body, depending how much fluid you've now put in the gearbox may be flooded and will need draining and flushing too before the bearings react to the wrong oil.

It sounds like 2 problems, the sensors are old and probably do need replacing due to wear, but with the engine running and stationary, it shouldn't even try for 3rd, deal with the sensors first then if it is still doing this then we'll have to look into ABS/clutch speed mismatch. Have you check the ABS for fault codes???? Sometimes that can help when diagnosing sele faults, especially when there is a brake pedal switch warning.

I'd swap the 2 sensors around and charge the battery.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kenwood-DNX-4150DAB-Double-DIN-Car-CD-DVD-USB-DAB-Bluetooth-Sat-Nav-Stereo-/121631757576?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c51d15508

The system holds 750ml, but to flush it out you need about 3 litres at least, but you'll never be able to flush it completely unless the reservoir is removed and drained separately, and that can get messy as it releases the pressure when it's unscrewed.

That one is fully home, so this will be the pump causing the issue.

You can use a multimeter on the pins in the socket and spin the center to check the resistance changes, or .... lift it off but leave it plugged in, ignition on then while someone watches the rev counter (gear display) spin the center and see if the gear indication changes, or .... If you have MES, lift it off but leave it plugged in, ignition on then whilst watching the inserted gear on the live data see if it changes.

I'm aware of that one, but the real cause was the dipstick was too short (making the full mark higher in the sump) so when topped up there would be too much oil and crank case pressure was pushing oil through the breathers, if someone has put too much oil in yours then yes, this could be the answer and because of this it's worth approaching the main dealer with that info.

Nope, The sensor I'm sure is the issue is identical to the one in the middle of those two solenoids but down the back of the actuator, I'd suspect it's contaminated with oil. But in that pic the LH solenoid is the clutch one and the right hand is the range (left or right on a conventional stick)

I'd suspect a faulty range sensor on the back of the actuator.

It's possible that a failed piston ring would allow enough blow by to pressurise the crank case and force oil vapour through the breathers towards the intake side but would that be enough to allow a runaway??? I think not, and it would also sound like a complete bag of spanners all the time. Whatever has caused this is connected to all for cylinder intakes, I can't be certain without seeing the car myself but I would as I said before seriously look at the turbo seals, the fords and pugs have a reputation for those and as the Volvo has the same engine then I think it's a good place to start. And the amount of diesel that would be needed to wash by the pistons to raise the oil level would almost certainly hydrolock the cylinders and to major damage to the engine during a DPF regen.

Mmmmm, well I've never seen that, DPF regen has nothing to do with oil level and it certainly doesn't increase it, though the oil may expand a little from heating up a fraction more than normal running it certainly wouldn't grow that much, but if there was already too much oil in the engine then possibly it could runaway, but I think I'd be taking off the turbo hoses to see if there is oil before and after the turbo....also if it is the 2.4JTD in the C30 then it is essentially the same as the CF3 10V in the 156.

Check all the plug connections to the coil packs, MAF and temp sensor, if they are fine I'd suggest you have the codes read, I bet there is a generic misfire and a misfire cylinder... This could be the start of a coil pack failure.

In what way? Runaway diesels are only using the oil from the sump to continue running, the only ways this can happen is worn piston rings, valve stem seals, or turbo bearing seals. In any case the faulty part needs to be replaced. To stop the engine select a high gear and release the clutch whilst stamping on the brakes to stall it.

JTS or twinny?