Smaky

I would suspect the lower rear engine mount.

I would say yours is #5

http://www.motormedic.co.uk/alloy-wheel ... tAoddULd8A

There's known faults and theres KNOWN FAULTS, if it doesn't pose a safety hazard then it wont make the KNOWN FAULTS list and wont be honoured under warranty (without a fight) or get as far as a recall. It's one of those things the bean counters have decided will cost less to fix as it occurs than it will cost to sort in one go.

I know, especially with your reputation... but more good news, the 146Ti is off to help other 146s get back on the road, mainly body panels, locks and seats but like any donor, she will live on.

There's one in Chippenham.

As my membership is still valid with AO I think I may go, only problem is I can't post on the forum.

Be careful though as they can melt when your trying to remove them.

It may be worth it.

The easiest way to check it out is to fit the cambelt correctly and then run a compression test, if any are low then pray they are in the front bank, but if the valves are bent then it's head off and replace the vales, at least £400 if you DIY.

The first attempt is a bit too MONDEO for me on the new Giulia.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18EoXXl2ROA&feature=player_detailpage Unfortunately it looks like Bannowhog spell checked it.

Act of god.

He's shit outta luck on that front.

This proved to be the downfall of the 2.0 JTS and it is looking like they haven't learned on the 2.2, the problem is the drive pegs on the pump to wear and this causes the pump to rattle as it spins, this stress eventually shears the pegs off and your left with a HP fuel pump that doesnt pump and acts as a restrictor, massive loss in power and warning light. It's a flawed design imo and they need to beef it up, but cost will be stoping them and they'll hope not too many fail.

OK the general rule for suspension noises is: 1, Constant Rumbling by the feet - Anti Roll Bar Bushes, replace the ARB (and droplinks). 2, Rumbling by the feet on uneven raods - Drop link balljoint loose, replace droplink. 3, Knock from floor area and steering wandering - Lower wishbone bushes or balljoint, replace lower arm. 4, Knocking noise from knee high area - Worn upper arm bushes or ball joint - replace upper arm. 5, Squeaking suspension over bumps - Dry upper arm bushes, Remove arm and center pin from bushes, apply red rubber grease and rebuild. 6, Clunk when turning the steering along with car sitting uneven side to side - snapped spring, Replace springs as axle pair (you'll probablyfind the shocks are shot too at thispoint). Those are just the common reasons for the noises but there are other things that happen which can cause similar noises in those areas, the worst of which I have found so far is a cracked shock fork which rocked and knocked over the bumps, scuffed the driveshaft and took 20 mins to replace.

Saved 2 quid though!!! http://uk.cars.yahoo.com/18072011/74/ti ... d-sea.html

Nope, only ropey vendors are trying too though.

If it's second then the windscreen will let you know!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALFA-ROMEO-156-2- ... 1c14f6f41e

Well, I think this is one guy who may be asking a few questions about how to rebuild a flooded engine... http://uk.cars.yahoo.com/18072011/74/ti ... d-sea.html

Hope you noticed the 3.2 sticker on the pulley, which itself is faulty in this pic, you can see the rubber peeling from the outpulley and this causes an oscilation and knocking as shown in this vid of a GTA below.

I would suspect the boot at the base of the steering column may be dry and that is the rubber on steel sqeaking away, a squirt of lithium grease on it shouldstop it.

What you can do is once the ball joint is out of the upright is push down the old arm and swing the shock forwards allowing the arm to come right up to the neutral position, tie the shock forwards if it helps, When rebuilding, just slide in the new arm, fit the 4 bolts into the bushes loosely and connect up the lower ball joint then reconnect the upper arm ball joint, from there reverse the guide. I will get a guide together with pictures the next arm I do.

1, Loosen both front wheel bolts 2, Jackup fron end and support, remove wheels 3, Disconnect droplinks from shock forks on both sides and remove the 2 sliding bolts (7mm hex) from the brake calipers and support out the way 4, Remove lower arm outer ball joint nut and using a large hammer strike the balljoint hard square on to sperate joint 5, Remove shock fork to lower arm bolt 6, Remove 4 bolts from the inner front and rear bushes 7, It may help if you disconnect the upper wishbone balljoint if the lower arm wont pull out