Smaky

I can obtain the parts for far less than any retailer on the web, but if you want to get them yourself then Eurocarparts.com and discount code summer30 for best Lemforder ones which are better than OE or Alternative Autos for OE at less than dealer prices. As a warning, the cheap arm from Eurocarparts are trash and are the same as those from bypartsby and shop4parts, I've fitted a few sets of them for people and within weeks they are back complaining about them, I warn them not to use them in the first place but it's only when I show them the difference in quality between the cheapos and a Lemforder that they understand that it's not my fault but the cheap crappy parts, on a suspension you get what you pay for.

That is of course assuming the brake pedal WAS pressed when selecting the gear from Neutral.

Just read through the proposed law change with regards to HIDs, if they are fitted as standard then colour, pattern and aim are to be tested, if they are retrofitted then they are illegal. Basically if you have fitted a kit and the tester passes the car then you and they are breaking the law.

Nearly a month now and these selespeeds must be so unreliable that 3 problems have come up and all are resolved in minutes with only one sensor requiring replacement, why do they have a reputation?

Faulty gear insertion sensor, that's the one on the top of the actuator just infront of the 12mm hex plug.

Hold on, I've just noticed this load of BS at the bottom of the post... THAT IS NOT AN ECU RESET, that can only be done with software. What you have incorrectly written are instuctions on how to do a throttle reset.

I'll keep this as simple as possible and then maybe it won't leave too many questions. All figures are in miles and years, and are whichever comes first, so for example if you have a TS and it's done 14000 miles in 3 years then the belt is due, Also if it has done 36000 in 18 months then again it's due. 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 TSpark engines : 36ooo miles / 3 years (reduced from 72000 / 5 years and change the water pump / variator everytime). 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.2 V6 : 72000 / 5 years. (personally 50000 / 4 years and change the water pump everytime too) 2.0 JTS : 36000 / 3 years (reduced from 72000 / 5 years and change the water pump / variator everytime). 2.0 TS and JTS also have a balance belt which is replaced at the same time. Or if ay maintennce of the engine is carried out which disturbs the belt. Or for example you open the belt cover and it looks like this...

On the 916 (GTV and Spider) the door window regulators, just like on the 930, 932 and 937 series suffer from corrosion of the motor, this slows it right down and in serious cases stops it altogether, greaseing the runners is the worst thing you can do as this attracts the dirt and just jams the window even more, as for WD40, I wouldn't even put a can of that stuff in the boot, let alone pop the top and use any.

If it's more noticable in the even gears then I'd be investigating linkage wear.

I cant stand those things. I guess your blades where worn at the plastic mounting clip then.

If you pull the temp sensor plug off with the ignition at MAR then the fan should run, if it doesn't then yes you'll probably need a resistor and yes I'll have time at some point, just these blasted day trips to Carterton now do my head in, the place is full of tards that think a speed ramp is a zebra crossing and get offended whenI test my horn.....apparently "it's off the richter scale!!!" (Oxford evening star) there was me thinking that was for earthquakes .

If you have a code card, then any key can be coded to the cars immobilizer and central locking, but you need a blade to be cut.

Scouse keys.

Is the anti vibration clip still on the arm?

Clutch release bearing has collapsed, it's going to need a complete clutch kit. It's becoming quite common on the Hondas, I see a lot of them do this around Swindon (home of jap crap production).

Even better tip is to seal it inwith a dab of silicone sealant, so it doesn't vibrate and fall out.

Typical self inflicted injury.

I would think you are talking about a 147 here as this is a common issue on those where the drivers side of the linkage snaps and the wiper arm bounces off the bonnet, If this is on a 156 then you probably have a loose wiper arm nut on the spindle OR the arms are not set correctly and are bouncing off the window edge seal.

The TS should be avoided in the 166, it's underpowered for the size of the car and in the 166 barely does 28Mpg in TSpark guise. Water pumps, OEM pumps still come with plastic impellors, to get the metal impellor pump you must stipulate that you want the 3.2 GTA pump fitting unless you find a technician that only uses those anyway

If it's tinny then probably a loose heatshiel, otherwise anything from the bushes to a snapped spring is possible, the springstend to snap inside the sleeve and it's not really that noticable unless you specifically look for it.

I think the range insertion sensor is the most likely culprit here.

Make sure they don't weld anything on the car or you'll be here wondering why the ECU is fried.

Some garages like Auto-lusso have done a masterful job ofputting the fear of god into owners of cars with the 6 speed box that ALL of them are about to iminently launch the planatery pin out through the casing, when infact it's less than 1% which have done this in reality and not as big a problem as they make out. The problem is that when it does go and from the people that have had one go tell me, you don't get any warning signs, I've never actually had one go on me, but if it's a worry and in your case it seems to be then I would have it looked at, if it isjust simply ARB bushes then the whole bar should be replaced or your new bushes will just get chewed up in weeks.

It wouldn't be replaced during a cambelt service, and it's normally the pulley and the tensioner at fault together.

Head gasket blown, well what appens tere is that the compression gases heat the water ndas this is gases at around 500'c it doesn't take long for them to heat the coolant to a level at which even a stuck open thermostat cant allow enough flow to cool, it's the same as a car running perfectly bar the t'stat, it will allow full flow all the time so with forward momentum or the fan running, the coolant will drop in temp, but come to a halt or stop the fan then the temps will rise, because the stat is stuck open ALL the coolant will be warmer than it should be, As with a fully functioning stat, the coolant in the rad will chill with the airflow and present a reservior of cooler water to bring down the temp within the engine when the car has sat idling at the lights.