147 Bose stereo spec?

[twisted_pr 16]

(Getting a bit ahead of myself, as I haven't even bought the car off my Dad yet, but)

does anyone know the spec of the Bose equipment fitted to the 147? Power rating per channel & at what ohms etc?

 

Reason I ask is that as good as the Bose system may be, it won't be a patch on the Alpine and JL Audio set up in my current car , so I would want to transfer that over to the 147. This will involve me customising the install to some degree (and kissing goodbye to most of the bootspace LOL), which will take time that I haven't got a lot of. So I wanted to know the spec of the Bose kit to see if it's compatible with what I've got, meaning I can do the transfer in stages as and when I have the time, rather than in one hit. e.g. fit JL speakers first (but not if the Bose amp is only 2 ohms and cant cope with 4 ohm speakers etc).

 

Also, are the "Bose" grills near the door handles purely for show, or are there actually tweeters behind them?

 

Thanks.

[LJ_GQV 115]

Not sure about the other stuff but im pretty sure there are no tweeters near the door handle, just for show i think

[twisted_pr 16]

Ah bollox, have components me, which means I'm gonna have to either cut the door cards or fabricate something for the "a" and "c" pillars

[Smaky 73]

The Bose are cross axials, so the tweeter is part of the main speaker unit, so yes those covers by the door handle are just for show, the speakers though I am sure are 50W RMS so your safe with most average systems pumping through them.

[twisted_pr 16]

The Bose system is rated at 50W per channel at 2 ohms, which IMHO is pants. Looks like they went for volume over quality, as you get a much crisper sound at 4 ohms but 50W @ 2ohms would be around 25W @ 4ohms, which is weedy.

 

Therefore looks like the only way I can do it in stages is by doing the frontend (headunit etc) first (running it through Bose amp and speakers), followed by upgrading the door speakers (but will be quiet), then sound deadening and running cables before installing the rest of the backend system (battery, sub and amp etc). It's the penultimate stage that's the monster as I like to Dynamat the whole car (floor, boot, doors and even the roof) which takes forever, especially if I do the bulkhead (i.e. completely strip the interior including dash - fine on a 20yr old Golf, but maybe more tricky on a 147 )

[Smaky 73]

The Bose system is rated at 50W per channel at 2 ohms, which IMHO is pants. Looks like they went for volume over quality, as you get a much crisper sound at 4 ohms but 50W @ 2ohms would be around 25W @ 4ohms, which is weedy.

 

 

You'll find that most speakers are rated PMPO, which is actually a peak rating, real audiophiles measure in RMS, as RMS is generally around 1/3 PMPO then even 25W RMS is NOT weedy, and the lower resistance speaker actually gives a better sound.

[twisted_pr 16]

Consider myself a bit of an audiophile and whilst I agree that the Bose system sounds OK for a factory option circa 2002, not sure I would agree with you about the 2ohm speaker giving a "better" sound - louder yes, but not as precise as a 4ohm one. Appreciate the difference between PMPO and RMS, but 25W RMS IS weedy IMHO, especially when compared to the system I installed in my Golf and would like to transfer over to the 147 (as far as possible).

 

If you're interested, the spec is:

Speakers: 2 pairs of JL Audio ZR650-CSI components, housed in custom audiopods (front) and a stealth shelf (rear).

Main Amp: JL Audio Slash 300/4 (soon to be replaced by an HD600/4)

Sub: JL Audio 10W7 in a ProWedge enclosure

Sub Amp: JL Audio HD750/1 with remote level control

Wiring: QED XT400 for the speakers, plus shielded and earthed interconnects

Power: Shuriken audio battery, with power cap and split charge relay

Insulation: Dynamat throughout, plus additional padding/MDF flooring in boot.

Head Unit: Alpine IVA-D511R

Audio Processor: Alpine PXA-H100 Imprint, "calibrated" to my audio setup and the interior of my car.

Fancypants Alpine Bolt Ons (that have little/no effect on the sound quality): NVE-M300P satnav, TUE-T150DV TV tuner, KCE-400BT Parrot bluetooth, HCE-C117D reverse camera, video iPod lead.

 

All specced, sourced, installed and setup by me over a period of time much longer than I care to remember, whilst trying to keep the interior looking as factory as possible. I even had to uprate the rear suspension to cope with the extra weight, as it looked like it was trying to wheelie!

 

This stuff is like Pringles to me, and with the standard kit in a mk2 Golf being so dire I just had to pop, and couldn't stop. I daren't begin to tot up the cost of everything but even 2nd hand it's got to be worth more than the rest of the car (and that's in good nick and loaded with rare factory/dealer options) I definitely need professional help

[Smaky 73]

Consider myself a bit of an audiophile and whilst I agree that the Bose system sounds OK for a factory option circa 2002, not sure I would agree with you about the 2ohm speaker giving a "better" sound - louder yes, but not as precise as a 4ohm one. Appreciate the difference between PMPO and RMS, but 25W RMS IS weedy IMHO, especially when compared to the system I installed in my Golf and would like to transfer over to the 147 (as far as possible).

 

If you're interested, the spec is:

Speakers: 2 pairs of JL Audio ZR650-CSI components, housed in custom audiopods (front) and a stealth shelf (rear).

Main Amp: JL Audio Slash 300/4 (soon to be replaced by an HD600/4)

Sub: JL Audio 10W7 in a ProWedge enclosure

Sub Amp: JL Audio HD750/1 with remote level control

Wiring: QED XT400 for the speakers, plus shielded and earthed interconnects

Power: Shuriken audio battery, with power cap and split charge relay

Insulation: Dynamat throughout, plus additional padding/MDF flooring in boot.

Head Unit: Alpine IVA-D511R

Audio Processor: Alpine PXA-H100 Imprint, "calibrated" to my audio setup and the interior of my car.

Fancypants Alpine Bolt Ons (that have little/no effect on the sound quality): NVE-M300P satnav, TUE-T150DV TV tuner, KCE-400BT Parrot bluetooth, HCE-C117D reverse camera, video iPod lead.

 

All specced, sourced, installed and setup by me over a period of time much longer than I care to remember, whilst trying to keep the interior looking as factory as possible. I even had to uprate the rear suspension to cope with the extra weight, as it looked like it was trying to wheelie!

 

This stuff is like Pringles to me, and with the standard kit in a mk2 Golf being so dire I just had to pop, and couldn't stop. I daren't begin to tot up the cost of everything but even 2nd hand it's got to be worth more than the rest of the car (and that's in good nick and loaded with rare factory/dealer options) I definitely need professional help

 

So your comparing a custom install against a factory option, which if you were an audiophile would be negated by the annoying road noise etc, to appreciate music you must listen in a controlled enviroment, a car is not that.

[twisted_pr 16]

yep, a car is one of the worst environments to listen to music in. hence the vast amounts of sound deadening I put in to lessen the road noise as much as possible (not a lot you can do about wind noise, apart from drive slower). Plus the Alpine Imprint system makes a huge difference to the phasing and, when coupled with top quality kit, is the best processing system I've listened to for adapting the far from ideal acoustic stage and speaker positioning of a car's interior. Do you have any better, legal and practical suggestions for making sound on the move less crap?

 

As I intimated, the Bose setup is no doubt fine for most people, but not good enough for me. So, returning to the original point of my post, for where I want to get to it isn't really suited to being upgraded in stages, so I will probably do it in one hit.

[Smaky 73]

Which would be the best way.

[jhc 28]

Bose is shite. Over priced, over hyped, 'ooh look its shiny so it must be good' tat. Them and B & O.

 

'Uprated' factory setups are fine for the average user. Though in most cases they just add a sub and the brand you're paying for put their logo on slightly beefier factory speakers.

 

If you like it LOUD, bin it all off, get a good head unit that puts out a good quality signal (not a high wattage signal, a good signal... Alpine preferably), good quality comps up front and a good sub in a box made for its spec in the back. Go for quality over quantity with amps, a monoblock for the sub and two channel for the comps Dynamat everything in sight and use the best quality wiring you can afford.

 

Then, and most importantly, get it set up properly! if you're gain is above 2/3, you're doing it wrong.

 

powercaps are a waste of time unless you're running massive power.

[Smaky 73]

Bose is shite. Over priced, over hyped, 'ooh look its shiny so it must be good' tat. Them and B & O.

 

'Uprated' factory setups are fine for the average user. Though in most cases they just add a sub and the brand you're paying for put their logo on slightly beefier factory speakers.

 

If you like it LOUD, bin it all off, get a good head unit that puts out a good quality signal (not a high wattage signal, a good signal... Alpine preferably), good quality comps up front and a good sub in a box made for its spec in the back. Go for quality over quantity with amps, a monoblock for the sub and two channel for the comps Dynamat everything in sight and use the best quality wiring you can afford.

 

Then, and most importantly, get it set up properly! if you're gain is above 2/3, you're doing it wrong.

 

powercaps are a waste of time unless you're running massive power.

 

I'd agree with 90% of that, but power capseven on the most basic of upgraded systems do work, as if the head is suffering from the dip caused by heavy bass then the whole system gets distorted very quickly and that's when it goes to ratshit, even a cap in the powerline of the stock BOSE setup helps out, but as you say the head has the most impact, after all crap signal to amps and then your onto a loser from the start. Never been a fam of Alpine though...something to do with a tuning company I suppose.

[jhc 28]

I'm shocked! I expected something like "aftermarket audio is pointless extra weight/can't offer anything over factory kit built for the car by the alfa design gods" from you.

 

With the ripspeed special alloys on black beauty and now an interest in 'ICE' I'm starting to think you might not be a robot after all...

 

Back on topic... I Can't say I've ever associated alpine with anyone tbh, I just know they offer high quality kit at good prices. They're a popular choice amongst the competition crowd.

 

We'll have to agree to disagree about caps. A good headunit with a good amp will manage the current without help imo.

 

I've run a 500w rms 138db sq system happily without any caps, extra batteries, split charge etc. (never quite got it setup how I wanted sadly, but it could score steady mid 70's in competitions)

 

A friend had a spl setup running god knows how much power through three 18" re xxx (iirc) subs with nothing more than an uprated alternator in a 1.2 corsa. Admittedly the quality was poor, but fuck me it was epic when it dropped a 20hz burp at 150db.

 

Ps; if you think it's pointless trying to get audiophile approved sound quality in a car, take a seat in a high end competition level sql car it is a tough job to do it in a car, but it's far from impossible.

[twisted_pr 16]

Having suffered headlight dimming etc when the bass kicked in I'm with Mr Smaky on the power cap front. Although, I've just bought a 12 farad hybrid cap to help run the circa nearly 1500W rms system in my car, which is massive overkill. Still, it made a lovely big spark when I connected it to the 2nd battery (turns out it wasn't charged beforehand, contrary to what I was told )

 

I've always been a fan of the Alpine stuff from an affordable quality POV, and as I mentioned, their IMPRINT system is brilliant. Plus they make loads of bolt ons, so you can easily build the features to your taste

 

Currently putting the finishing touches to a new amp/batter/cap housing, which will fit in both the mk2's and the 147's boot, making the changeover quicker if/when it happens

[MrsAlfa 58]

Nerds

[twisted_pr 16]

and your point is?

[Smaky 73]

An average car runs a 12V battery, with an alternator kicking out about 80 Amps, that means maximum power possible = 12 X 80 = 960 Watts, even is you were to say it was actually 14V which is the nominal charging current your only at 1120 Watts, with heat loss and the usage to run the engine etc I would say that 600W is the max you can get, anyone claiming 1500W without a second/high power alternator (by which I mean over 120A) I shall state is just talking complete bollox.

 

And the need for a cap... have you noticed your lights dim when the fan kicks in? and that's just a 240 Watt kick.

[Alfa156Melb 9]

now, where did I put that pocket protector?