leongsoon

Hi bazzbazz! We suspected the throttle wires and have checked those, might do it again in case we missed anything the first time around. A peculiar issue is that when the revs drop, we can hear the aircon compressor cutting out as well. We've also switched out the throttle body but the problem persists.

Hi! A few months ago my car started exhibiting random ABS / VDC / EBD failure. Sometimes this starts progressively, it'll start without errors, but after a few minutes of running, ABS error lights up, and after a few more minutes, VDC failure, and later EBD. Sometimes it'll start with all these errors displayed, might clear off in a few minutes, only to reappear later. Brake pump and rear ABS sensors has been replaced but the problem persists. About 3 weeks ago my 156 started experiencing a sudden but short and violent loss of throttle control when driving, shuddering with acute rev drops and Motor Control System Failure message appearing. This occurs every few minutes or worse, few times a minute. What has been done in chronological order: 1. Charged battery and cleaned the terminals (didn't help) 2. Changed RPM sensor (didn't help) 3. Changed tachometer (didn't help) 4. Ran with MAF disconnected (didn't help) 5. Replaced pedal (drove fine for 80km) 6. Cleaned the 2 connectors on top of throttle body (got some throttle related messages but since gone) 7. Clean big Selespeed connector beside battery 8. Cleaned connectors around shifter and behind glove compartment After replacing the pedal, the car drove fine for about 80km but that didn't last. What I've noticed since: 1. Even with the car idle and stationary, the revs will still abruptly drop and probably stall the engine. 2. The rev drop observed isn't as if throttle was suddenly released, rather the tachometer lost readings, the gauge lights and MCSF still work while this happens. 3. I've been monitoring with MES, and every time it shudders, the car loses all readings for pedal angle, throttle angle, rpm etc 4. I've also noticed that sometimes the bulb warning flickers and the Selespeed shifter will fail to respond sometime a few seconds before the car starts jerking again In the early stages of checking and cleaning I've managed to come up with some throttle error messages, and later: P1763 - Receive CAN messages (Stored) P0725 - Engine speed signal (Stored) In the past 2 weeks we haven't been able to get any error messages out of it but the shuddering persists. Could this be a wiring or ECU issue? Really at my wit's end trying to figure this problem out. Any pointer is much appreciated!

As far as I'm aware there are no differences between the early and late 147s concerning the door. The exterior handle material is different (metal / plastic) but everything else should be the same. I think the guide only gets detailed as far as removing the internal handle, but you're pretty close now. Look at the 3rd pic from bottom, that's how you loosen the external handle, you might need to release the rod first.

The easy way, in fact, is to sell it; my Twinny is so rare here that I can sell it and get any V6 car I like with spare change. Unfortunately import is a bit difficult for us as we have to pay a hefty import fee to the few organizations that hold the Approved Permits that will make it legal, it's a heavily monopolised option here. If possible I'd like to keep my current car, but seems like the only straightforward option for conversion while retaining VDC will be to acquire a post 2002 V6 manual donor car. The guys selling the halfcuts say they've never seen any!

Hi guys! Back with another question! I've a question that would be interesting I guess: I have a 2002 156 Selespeed (new chassis, new interior with Infocentre and digital aircon display, old exterior styling, GTA-size rear brakes, VDC, black key fob, remote boot lock, etc etc). I'm considering converting it to a 2.5 V6 manual from a halfcut car (complete front part of the car with all the mechanicals and anciliaries attached), but the only V6 manual halfcuts available are all pre-facelift (red key, old interior and exterior styling). My questions are: 1. There have been quite a few V6 conversions into pre-facelift TwinSpark 156s, I was told that in order for this to work, the facelift dashboard will have to be swapped out for the older version in order for the aircon controls to work. 2. I was also told that the locks and code box from the donor car will have to be used. This will make me lose the function of the remote boot lock. Is this true? I know the general consensus would be that this isn't a worthwhile idea converting and it's better off to buy a V6 manual car; but in Malaysia where I am, most 156s are pre-facelift Q-System V6 or Selespeed TS. GTAs, 2002 models and Giugiaro facelifts are extremely rare. Any input is much appreciated!

Just a guess but that might be the expulsion of air trapped in the Selespeed hydraulic circuit during accumulator change, should be fine once the Selespeed fluid has filled the system properly.

Yup, size 27, and the flatter wrench sure helps. I do mine with a normal wrench, but you have to keep the wrench really straight or it'll catch the actuator body and not turn.

As far as I know, you'd have to get some of the LEDs with built-in resistors, otherwise the LED will work, but the bulb failure indicator in the instrument cluster will light up.

Another update, I think I should move this question to another category but unsure which one, so back here it goes. I've put in another used fan resistor from a parted car (no new ones in stock at the moment) but the high speed still doesn't kick in. I've since removed the wires to the resistor and bridged them with a 30a fuse. It's constantly at high speed now so that fixes my overheating risk for the moment. Reckon it's just another botched resistor or is there anything I'm missing (relays, fuses etc)?

Ok, an update, with the engine running hot at 3/4 of the gauge, i turned the AC off and disconnected the temp sender at the thermostat... And sure enough, the fan just started running faster and louder than it was seconds ago. I guess a busted resistor it is then. Will it be ok if I connect the 2 resistor wires and let it run high speed all the time for a few days while I get a new resistor? The temperature is managable, but having it stick so high sure makes me nervous. I'm just worried that making it run high speed constantly will overheat and melt some wires, relays etc

Hi guys, a quick question! My car is still running hot when idling in traffic in hot weather, say about 3/4 of the temperature gauge, or almost to the next marker after 90c, all this in about 38c weather. Once the car moves the temperature quickly goes back to normal, if it's idling in an open area, the temperature will just hover around 90c. Even under hot weather the temperature wouldn't rise much if I push it. Idling 3-5 minutes in hot traffic is what does it. Or am I just paranoid? I did test the fan and relays by removing the thermostat's temp sender with the engine on; fan kicks in after about 3 seconds, the fan then runs faster after another 3 seconds. Low speed works all the time with air con on (nobody in their right mind here drives with air con off really haha). I believe that the test rules out fan motor, wiring, and relays, but is it possible that the resistor is shot and it's preventing the fan from running high speed while driving? As a side note, I noticed that sometimes one of my lambda in the exhaust manifold isn't working correctly (reading at a constant 0.75 or 0.0075 before suddenly reading normally). This makes the car shudder terribly on idle. I've cleaned the contacts a few weeks back and it seems fine now, hasn't recurred. Just putting this here in case it is related.

Welcome! From scorching Malaysia

I don't know much about the water pump other than it is a Sachs unit and was fitted about a year ago during the timing belt change. I noticed it's just running water in the cooling system now (mechanics here don't believe in coolant haha) so I'll put some coolant in later. Temp sensor seems fine based on temp gauge / MES reading, but I'll look into it again. Thanks for the advice!

Thanks for the advice Smiffy! I'm not sure if the water pump was checked when the head was off, but temperature is fine at high speeds and revs now, it just runs a bit hot when crawling in our currently scorching weather (35 deg c average), no water loss detected so far after 3 days of use. When crawling in hot weather it gets to about 100 deg c, not sure if this could be due to the higher compression (slightly thinner head and smaller combustion chamber area)?

Water pump is new, replaced along with the timing belt kit about 2-3 months and less than 1000km ago, so that should rule it out I guess!

Hi! Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but didn't think it was worth starting a new thread! About 2 weeks back the lower / smaller front thermostat hose (leading to bottom of engine / radiator) on my 2002 156 2.0 TS burst and the car overheated while I was looking for a safe spot to pull over. By the time I pulled over the temperature gauge's red light was already lit. I let the car cool for about 15 minutes (not much good in tropical heat) while I patched the hose and found water to refill it. Replaced the hose and the car ran fine for a few days, but last Monday the car suddenly started overheating in traffic, so I did some troubleshooting: 1. Thermostat (took it out and boiled it while suspended multiple times, opening and closing normally) 2. Radiator fan (low and high speeds working normally, resistor is fine) 3. Radiator (sent in for a clean, but leak suspected at the plastic side, so replaced with an available aluminium 147 radiator and hoses) 4. Expansion tank is newish, expansion tank cap is newish, hoses are fine, new fluids and coolant. 5. Temperature sender and gauge is fine (confirmed by comparing MES and gauge readings + feeling the hose temperature and stiffness) So i took the car out on multiple evenings and it'll idle at normal temperature, but will sometimes overheat (110c +) when I rev the engine up to 5-6k rpm. This will cool down very quickly if the car is still moving, but it'll continue creeping up if car is stationary. Sometimes the temperature will rise and promptly drop even if I'm cruising slowly at 2-3k rpm. The workshop suspects that I might have a blown head gasket (but cylinder head should be fine), so the plan of action is to skim the head and replace with a new head gasket while patching my cracked plastic inlet manifold. My question is, would the skim be enough to fix the issue? Or is a cylinder head replacement needed? Thanks!

Nice! Anyway, went to the workshop today and finally saw the steering without buttons fitted in a manual 147 with cloth seats! Normally the 147s we have are Selespeed with leather interior and steering with buttons!

Nice work rewrapping the steering! Looks quite good! First time seeing the facelift steering without buttons! Which particular 147 or 156 variant is that from? I know another variant where there's silver plastic trim on the bottom spoke as well, and another with wooden rim.

Yep, so that clears it, we'll be removing the Selespeed ECU and replacing the engine ECU for the conversion. I was considering using my old white Selespeed gauges after the manual conversion if possible. So basically by switching the key chips I was told my car will work as usual with the exception of the remote boot release. I can live with that I suppose! I'm skeptical about the part saying the engine will produce less power once converted to manual too, so I'm trying to contact others who has a converted car to ask about their experience. Like you mentioned, I believe that if properly installed, there's no reason the manual should make less power compared to the Selespeed setup. That workshop is very reliable and fixes all problems at the first go, but as I noted we don't have too many TwinSpark manual conversions around these parts so I wouldn't discount the possibility of them missing something. We can't just go out and buy an original manual 156 here haha; probably less than 10 available around the whole country; most 156s brought into Malaysia are pre-facelift Selespeeds or Q-Shifts. Only 2 out of roughly 10 GTAs here are Selespeed. We've got about 40 2002 156s with facelifted interior here, and less than half of those are TwinSparks (including mine), the rest are JTS, these are assembled in Rayong, Thailand and most commonly and errorneously referred to as Thai spec. Probably less than 20 SportWagons too, majority of which are pre-facelift and Q-Shift. There are some original Giugiaro facelift versions here, but just a handful and command a much higher price (7-8k GBP). Only about 5 Brera here including a red Spider and a 3.2 Q4 brought in via personal AP, and only one black 159 SportWagon (brought in via personal AP too, which also happens to be the only TBI, most are JTS, 3.2 is extremely rare too). Alfa Romeos are an extremely rare breed here, so you can imagine the lack of knowledge and parts floating around haha. Even making it harder to buy the rare Alfa Romeos is the fact that they are mostly collected by diehard fans who have no intention of selling. Just in my small town we already have people who own 3, 5 or even 9 Alfa Romeos, that's a bit crazy considering cars are expensive here and we have to pay hefty road taxes for any vehicles displacing anything more than 2000cc. The good part is we don't have MOT here though, so once a car has passed inspection, it'll be good to go for years to come, until the next ownership transfer that is, otherwise it's all worry-free and we don't need to SORN it if we intend to store the car indefinitely. The person who has the manual conversion parts now owns an original manual TwinSpark 156, only 2nd unit I've seen in 8 years! It does take a certain degree of patience and passion to own an Alfa Romeo here considering we don't even have official dealer for Alfa Romeo and Fiat anymore, so we rely a lot on halfcut cars from Japan and maybe Singapore to get on top of part shortages!

Sorry, in my excitement I seemed to have left out a keyword from my last post and caused some confusion! So, the donor parts are from a year 2000 MANUAL 156, so we're talking about pedal box with clutch pedal, manual shifter & linkages, gearbox (if I understood what I read correctly it is somewhat different in terms of bell housing, lack of selector arm & sensor etc etc), black face orange-lit gauges with no gear indicator. If possible, I only plan to swap all that is necessary for manual conversion, retaining the engine. Please correct me if I get any of the following wrong: 1. In order to get the engine to work properly, the Selespeed ECU is to be removed and the engine ECU replaced with the codebox. What I haven't understood is if we'll be needing ECUs for both engine and gearbox, or if there's an ECU for the manual gearbox at all, I reckon it's just a different manual engine ECU that does not require input from the Selespeed ECU. Another alternative is shorting 2 pins in the Selespeed ECU, tricking it into believing that the gearbox is in N, allowing the engine to start and rev normally. 2. If the codebox is switched, putting the black chips from the 2000 red keys into my 2002 black flick keys will retain functionality of the starter switch, door locks, and remote boot release. 3. I read in an old reply of yours from AO i think, that swapping the gauges is optional. If I retain the Selespeed gauges, will the gear indicator still work? I don't mind if the gear indicator doesn't work as long as the tachometer does. Just gonna retain it till I find a suitable set of white gauges. 4. I just called the mechanic, a very reputable Alfa Romeo workshop in the country. He informed me that after conversion, the engine will not be as powerful as it was in Selespeed form. The engine will rev above 4500rpm but power is not as good he claimed. Could this be related to the fact that it'll still be running the electronic throttle? It's worth noting that most conversions done here are Selespeed to V6 manuals since the cost of conversion to TwinSpark manual is not much cheaper, so not much expertise on TS manual conversion here.

Hi Smaky! I've got an interesting question for you I think! I might be able to acquire a complete set of engine, ECU, wiring, gearbox, keys, gauges, pedals, linkages, shifter and quite possibly clutch pump from a year 2000 Japan spec 156. It was working fine but the owner has had a V6 swap recently. 1. Will the ECU work on my year 2002 156? My car already has the engine from a 2000 Japan spec 156 that was swapped in some 6 years ago. I assume it's not a problem, but best depend on your expertise. In this case do we remove the Selespeed ECU and plug in the manual gearbox ECU? Or is it actually the engine ECU we're swapping? 2. The gauges are different coloured though, so is it possible to retain my current white gauges with the gear indicator? I like the Selespeed, but since my variant is extremely rare in these parts (most 2002 versions here are JTS), I'm quite worried about the Selespeed harness giving problems again in the future and not being able to source replacement parts then, so I'm quite tempted to convert it. The 156 still costs quite a bit here, so manual parts and conversion cost is less than 20% of the car price, a viable option

Hopefully I've got the reinforced gearbox then; my 156's the 2002 version with facelifted interior. Thank you

Reckon you're spot on as usual Smaky! Car was driving fine on Monday evening when I stopped for a pick-up with the engine running, when I got back on the car, the clutch started slipping, would have to hold it at about 2000rpm for about a second before it catches and moves. I called the mech and he reckons that the input shaft is wobbling as well, and it might not be the crank seal after all. As a matter of fact, his 147 Selespeed just threw it's bearings off last week and he had to tow it back haha. Car is parked at the moment and I'll send it in for diagnosis and repair next week I think. Will update on this later, thanks again Smaky! Oh yes, clutch and the slave bearings will be changed I think, but if the gearbox is knackered, would it be advisable to change with a used unit or repair the existing one? From what I understand most of the parts on my gearbox will not be damaged anyway.

Hi! Been lurking around reading posts but finally I'm in need of help again! In the past 2 weeks, my 156 Selespeed has been exhibiting the following behavior; 1. On turning the key to ON, sometimes N will blink or it will display 4. In both cases, I won't be able to get any gears or start the car until I disconnect and reconnect the Selespeed cable beside the battery. 2. When driving, it'll sometimes skip 3rd or engage 3rd very slowly. In the past 2 days it has started missing all odd gears or all even gears. 3. Also when driving, sometimes when shifting up from 2nd gear onwards, the gear will bounce into N. In this case if I try to shift up it'll go into 4th or 5th after a while. I'll then be able to shift normally. 4. Clutch rod length is at 28.4mm, but I haven't been able to calibrate as it keeps saying "Error due to absence of suitable conditions". The battery is new, and Selespeed pressure is quite normal at 55-57 bar. 5. When shifting from 1st to 2nd, there will sometimes be a crunching noise. It's gotten so bad that I've had to restart the car 4 times to make the 8km drive home today. 2 weeks ago when connecting MES I got: P1720 - Transmission/Gear Sys (12) P1725 - Engine speed signal Yesterday's codes: P1757 - Even numbered gear engagement P1758 - Clutch solenoid valve current I checked with MES today but there have been no new error codes. The car had developed a leaky flywheel seal lately so I'm not sure if it's related, the clutch has currently been used for about 60000km so I was told to wait until it's due at about 80000km. Could the clutch be due for replacement already, or is this also the clutch speed sensor? Any advice is much appreciated, thank you!

Nice SportWagon! I have the same springs and they are very low indeed, car looks amazing though!