Smaky

Can I take it this is a 1250 Punto Selespeed? In which case the plug is under the battery tray.

That is one, but it's easier to take the inspection plate off underneath and check the ring gear for missing teeth/cracks, but it is more than likely the starter at fault.

Possible, but you can check that through the inspection hole on top (rubber bung) or underneath (remove one of the 8mm bolts from the flywheel cover plate).

I'll go by paragraphs on this, The gauges from a selespeed WILL work in a manual, but obviously you wont have the gear display and swapping the immobiliser chip to match the new ECU and code box from the manual WILL NOT stop the boot release from working, it has nothing to do with the immobiliser system. If anything, your 2002 sele is 150Bhp, and is more than likely the electronic throttle, IF you are swaping out the Throttle body more the cable one then you'll need the exhaust manifold to match which gets rid of the precats and would actually lift the engines power to 155Bhp, so they clearly have no experience in this area. Holy moly, I'm going to start exporting 156s, we can pick them up here for £1200 maximum for 2002 models of any engine (except GTA, they are about 3500) For parts, if you have a Kia, Jeep or Chevvy dealer then they may be able to source what you need as they are part of the Fiat group now

No.

Why would a manual gearbox need an ECU? Gauges from a manual WILL NOT work in a selespeed. A selespeed ECU is no coded to the car, BUT they are specific to model 147/GT or 156, and they are specific to pre or post facelift. AN ENGINE ECU etc from a manual will not run the engine (in conjunction with the gearbox) in a selespeed car. Your "reputable" workshop is lying, the engine will produce the same power and run exactly the same if the car is converted to manual. You also need the body loom for a manual to make all of this work as the lack of start relay, gear indications, sele ECU, pedal box and a few other obivous parts. But as you note it's all cost, and I think it's just cheaper to go and buy a manual.

I say that because I have see n some where the cap was the problem.

It would be slightly easier if you removed the intake manifold (after you've wrestled with the bolts that mount the sterring reservoir, manfol itself, unclipped the sensor wiring from underneath it and moved all the wiring out the way), BUT then it would be even easier if you lifted the engine and gearbox out of the car.

I could, but an engine is a machine, a machine should be used and when things are used they end up like that, plus it's not my engine and that picture is about 4 years old.

Just swap the selespeed ECU to start with, it all depends on whether it's a pre or post update ECU as both were used in the 2002 models.

First of all there is a relay and a multiplug between the battery and thermostat, disconnect the plug and reconnect it, and make sure the relay is seated correctly.

You are able to check the resistance by just checking across the 2 soldered points on the cap, if that is OK and there is still a fault then check from plug pin to solder point for continuity.

Looks like a fault with the wiring or a battery on its last legs.

Make doubley sure you have the correct ratios, I think you may be using more of the original bits than you hoped... or just swap all the internals over from the spare box. Always do the clutch setup and calibration before starting the engine as well, this will allow the clutch to center perfectly before you start up. Also note that if the front bearing of the gearbox you are removing has gone them the casing around the bearing has also worn away, this can be terminal as if you just replace the bearing then it will do the same thing again.

Oddly enough almost every part is interchangeable, really only the bell housing, center case, clutch speed sensor, input selector rod and input shaft seal are unique to the sele box, the rest just depends on the year of box and the engine it was strapped to, but on the input shaft there is a stamp, as long as that stamp matches then the gearing was the same, also the 5th gear has a ratio stamp, that may also differ, but if I was to replace the 5th, I'd use the gears from a JTS (better economy)

At least they use the good parts, I think this thread should be linked to another forum so that others can see what THAT place (not Veloces) are trying to pass off. I'd say it was verging on fraud again.

A strip and clean out of the gearbox is the way forward, something inside is jamming it.

It should be.

LMAO

There are creams for that.

Ouch... deep pockets eh???

The clutch will be soaked in oil and will need replacing, the realease bearing will be in kit form and the bits will fall out as the gearbox slides off, the gearbox will be repairable, but if it is one of the older ones it may need a new case as the selector arm holding loops will have snapped off, I'd get a replacement box and build a good one from the 2....if you can get a 147, GT or late 156 sele box as these are all reinforced to prevent the loops snapping off.

I don't think it'll be the crank end seal that's leaking, I reckon that along with all the other problems you're having that the gearbox itself is the problem now, I'd say it is time to brace yourself for the worst, the box needs to come out, be stripped down and assessed completely, I'd suspect the front bearing to have failed which will allow the input shaft to wobble all over the place, this tears the gearbox front seal and allows the oil out all over the clutch and flywheel, many garages see oil at the engine/gearbox join and condemn the crank seal without investigating properly. If you're lucky the bulk of the gearbox will be reusable, but you will need a clutch kit as well as any gearbox parts that are damaged.

Has the rash cleared?