Smaky

It's the same, just you have to push it over the bulbous flange to get it on.....Hot water helps.

It's available off the rack in Al Frauds

So far... But just a little info for you, the pump only primes when it needs to, if the system is holding over 45 Bar when you open the drivers door or turn the key then the pump will not prime until the pressure drops below 44.5 Bar, this is controlled by the pressure sensor on the actuator.

OK, this now sounds like the gearbox itself could be the issue, but I don't know if you've checked the clutch rod length yet? If you have and it is within 28 - 28.5mm then I think either the clutch is worn out or the gearbox has an internal issue like the selector support bracket is broken.

3.2

It is a sign of a failing release bearing so a new clutch and inspection of the gear shafts is advisable.

What the fault is saying is that the Sele ECU is not recognised on the CanBus, this may be a proxy alignment, or dead ECU, but until continuity is checked we wont know, BUT if you've had ANY of the ECUs plugs off then check you haven't bent any pins in them.

That is what it's telling you, but WHY are there too many exhaust gases???

It shouldn't do, but I am really hoping you've checked all the fuses by now.

I would think that'll show up as a throttle body problem. Without diagnostics it's pretty much impossible to nail a Lambda, so many syptoms for lambdas can also be other things... normally a coil pack.

Could very well be, lift out the rear seat and boot carpet and remove the cover panel to the fuel pump, if it's leaking then it could be allowing air into the fuel and this is what is probably throwing the emisions off and causing the EML to come on, Also check for splits in the air inlet ducts as these too can affect the readings.

Possibly the start relay at fault, this is located behind the cover panel in the passengers footwell with the sele ecu

Either the battery terminals are loose, the earth strap is shot or the battery is flat, I'd recommend you try a jump start first.

OK, Is the N steady on the dash before you try to start. Can you hear a click from the passengers footwell when you turn the key? Does the starter spin?

and is there plenty of fluid there?

The sensor and solenoid wiring is all as important as each other and they are all simple clips on the plugs to release them except the main 20 pin plug which has a slide on it that locks it closed. Your fault though sounds like an insertion sensor failure. That is the rearmost one of the BLACK ones on TOP of the actuator, swap it with the other one on top of the actuator (clutch position sensor) and see if it's all good then. If it is then you may need to reset the clutch rod length and run the EOL, it may even smooth out the 1st gear starts but that may be hoping too much.

Does the pump run when you open the drivers door?

Yes, but as I said earlier, if the second Lambdas are removed then it has nothing to compare to and will run rich, which is exactly what it is doing.

Nope, Max value should be 1.2V any higher and they are being ignored.

Nope.

It all sounds very Lambda and MAF related, though the MAF is reading what I'd expect now, the Lambdas though are reading way over the top of their range so I think it could be a MES issue, one thing I didn't ask is have you fitted an aftermarket air filter?

Spliting the LAmbda signal wont work, it will only make the ECU think the emmisions are low and throw in more fuel, if it were my car then I'd remove the down pipe and fit a boss to each side so the lambdas can be refitted.

This white relay is indeed a shunt, meaning that it is there to bridge a circuit for a system you don't have fitted to allow another system to continue to operate, could be a cooling fan bypass if you only have one fan for example.

Keep trying.