Smaky

Without doubt Fiatecuscan, I find alfadiag too unstable and for many people it just confuses the as they don't know which ECU to connect to, and when they do find out it drops out every 20 seconds so you can't achieve anything. FES on the otherhand lists each model of car and which ECU you may have, connect to the wrong one and you get a warning plus it has only dropped out on me a few times and in every case it was because the cars batteries were low.

It will, because I know that you driving it hard is like grandma pushing her wheelie basket...

How's it going?

Just noticed yoou have the 1.6, as this is the lightest engine in the class then any extra weight in the boot lifts the front, this add -ve camber to the wheels, which with loads of twisty stuff will wear the outsides of the tyres quicker. Possibly you have over-rated springs inthe front.

It wont be retrospective though.

r I'm at home for the rest of today...unless I take a trip down to Westbury to look at a 147.

I would.. especially the return pipe to the header tank, noticed my temp suddenly rise last week, found the water low, when i nudged the little bit of of pipe next to the cap it sprayed out nice hot coolant from a small crack. £20 to replace the tank. Not saying that was the issue, but if left it would have resulted in a more catastrophic failure.

Probably an over-reading guage...have you done a live data check on diags yet? Guages have a different feed to the ECU so they don't often actually read the same as the signal the ECU is receiving, also I missed off temp sensor and degraded radiator fins from the list in your other thread.

10 years and shake before use, after that it requires a retest and will probably beextended for 5 more years.

Basically, yes.

Split hose, faulty pressure cap, leaking header tank, head gasket, leaking radiator, faulty water pump, old oil, air leak in induction side, faulty fan system or crack in head are the most likely causes.

It would be Romek, Ralphs prolem was resolved over the phone too, proving that not every problem needs major surgery.

Fantastic, dodgy earth?

Try one person with hands on the window "aiding" it down as the other selects the switch, also have the engine running as the anti-trap is current sensing and if the battery is low then the sensor gets a false signal and stops the window straight away, though the most likely problem is corroded motors, these can be stripped down and cleaned.

Transverse arms. Bring it to the meeting next thursday, I'll beable to take a butchers there.

Yes it is bad as t will eventually be transfering stresses through to the crank thrust bearings, which keep the crank in the right place so that the rods don't break.

Because it was probably run on crappy fuel then sat idle for quite a while, since you've had it the magic spray in the VVT rod has freed up the mechanism, but moreover our southern fuel is cleaner and all the crap in the manifold is getting pulled out and allowing the mill to breath better.

[flash=]Outside... too many fast roundabouts , I mean too much toe in or under pressure.

Hub bushes.

The usual suspect of a bad earth on the amp is normally the cause, it's mounted under the L/H parcel shelf grille on the saloon, go in through the boot, on te S/W it's behind the sub box in the boot.

rotten handbrake cables

Disks and pads for them too.

Yeah, £798.00 for the cam chain kit and installation and they tried for another £106.00 for an aluminium engine brace/mount? I told them to jam it as far as the bar was concerned. RAC warranty refuse to pay out because it didn't snap and damage the engine! I'm so pissed off Have you tried taking it up with ARUK yet? as at 35K the engine should not be wearing like that and as it is a design fault they should be accepting responsibility, even if only partial as they don't know how you look after the car?

Siezed caliper, dragging brakes, probably in need of a wheel bearing too now.

Front tyres worn on the inside more?