DeeeeC

OK, I finally got the time to work on this again after some work priorities. The answer to how the cylinder fired with a tester in it. Well, from my thread on water and white spirit for decarbing the engine, it became clear there was a lot of coked up crap in there that raised the compression to 245 psi on cylinder 4 when it should have been about 160 psi. Now consider the JTS is about 11.3:1 compression ratio. A 2.0 JTDm diesel engine compression ratio is 16.5 to 1. Scaling up the proper JTS compression ratio to 16.5:1: (160 / 11.5) x 16.5 = 230 psi This means that if I pumped in diesel fuel into the (previously) coked up 245 psi JTS engine of mine, the compression alone without a spark could fire the cylinder. The fact that it was petrol made it a lot more volatile and easier to ignite with compression alone and is why my tester broke. So at least that puzzle is sorted out now. If my new compression tester shows the engine is not damaged we now know that my engine has done at least 20k miles (obviously the compression built up pver the life of the engine) at this compression of 245 psi without damage implying that if someone had the inclination - there is scope for forced induction. According to the scaling above for compression it seems the engine can handle 50% more compression, so half a bar of boost that would equate to 50% more power or going from the claimed stock of 165 BHP to around 220 BHP. But I'm not going to try that! I'm going to post a guide on how I got my manifold off once I'm through cleaning my injectors and refitting them. It was a colossal b!tch of a job so now I know what you meant.

Thanks my friend! I will be taking pictures to help others along in the future.

Thanks for that Smaky I kind of hid the car away for a while not wanting to know if I totally destroyed it. I have drained all the contaminated fuel out without firing the engine again. Then I turned the engine on the starter with no fuel supply just to see if it still turns - it does thankfully but I know a proper test is needed. I also changed my broken compression tester for a new one, so hopefully that will tell me if I cracked any rings or pistons. I have my spare injectors posted to me - now I'm removing the intake manifold. I'm finding it hard to remove the power steering reservoir for access. I took off the engine top mount, and the easily accessed top nut for the reservoir. But I have no idea how to open the bottom allen bolt and whatever else holds it on. I disconnected the hoses to it and saved the fluid. Once I get the reservoir off I think it should be plain sailing to get the inlet manifold off and finally put in (new to me) injectors. So please advise. I just want to make it to the Ace cafe, and be an Alfa driver again.

OMG should I drain the fuel tank then? o_0 it hasn't blown up yet.

You'll need to worry about it in winter for sure.

I confirm I got this error when rewiring my lambda connectors, it went when I finished reconnecting them.

I decided not to take off my intake manifold to clean injectors. BTW I know the procedure below will not really help the injectors! So i read about pouring water into the vacuum hose into intake manifold (after throttle). I put in a few gallons (500ml at a time) very slowly, then revved to 3000 rpm. It took about 2 minutes to steam out the water each 500ml. A hell of a lot of white steam came out the exhaust. Then I tried 500ml neat injector cleaner whoa ho! The clouds of dense blue smoke were something to see - again taking about 3 minutes to cear up. Problem is some pooled into the manifold and the engine wouldn't stop. So I kept it at high revs and WOT for a while and it stopped. Then I added another 500ml water x2. White smoke again. Then 500ml white spirit x2 and massive clouds of blue smoke again - I'm told that's essentially what injector cleaner is mixed with petrol. Now I'm going to try this with about another 2l in total of white spirit and some water to see if blue smoke eventually clears. I must have had a hell of a lot of carbon in there. Also in the past when I did "Italian tune ups" with injector cleaner I just let the car idle through emptying the tank - what I should have done is kept it at 3000 rpm. My question is, other than waiting until blue smoke clears - how do I know when I'm done? I will probabl do a scan on FES when the smoke stops coming. EDIT: smoke has stopped coming! Now I put 2L of white spirit in the fuel tank to 10 l unleaded. Running smooth. FES still says cylinder 3 misfire but has changed from saying "sensor voltage high fatal" to "sensor voltage low fatal". What does this mean? All spark plugs have become very clean except cylinder 3. Lambdaintegration is staying at 1.01 now rather than 1.09 before.

Thanks Smaky. Ambition is a bit high today. I think my high lambda voltage can only be caused by the heater shorting to the sensor, i.e. knackered? I'll change the guage. I have no clue how the cylinder fired there was no coilpack! That's when the guage broke. It sounded like it fired for a second and bust the check valve on the guage.

Hi, some questions I have - please help my car is in bits and my second MOT test failed again on emissions. Mechanic suggested injector as gas test gave lambda of 1.17 and HC of 26 ppm and could barely read and CO - like 0.0 at fast idle, 0.3% at idle. Also said could be a post cat exhaust leak. 1) what is normal pre-cat lambda voltage? Web says it can be between 0.1 and 0.9 volts. I am getting 2.2V pre cat and 0.38V after cat on FES - I rewired the harness to no effect. 2) what is normal compression for a 2.0L CF3 JTS engine? I get for cylinders 1-4 respectively: 230, 220, 235, 245 in psi - it seems high, but this is no loss of coolant or oil. Plus my compression guage broke when the cylinders fired a little due to the compression. 3) How do i take off my intake manifold without breaking anything or getting a high pressure shot of fuel to the bloodstream? I took off the fuel relay and coilpacks and turned the engine for 30 seconds. I can see three bolts on the aluminium part of intake at the top. I took off the pairs of hose clips to each cylinder - but don't want to break the plastic part of the intake. I have to check and clean the injectors. This seems to quickly be turning into an engine rebuild and I don't want to go that far - when it's in bits you feel like changing everything while you're doing it!

Howdy.. err I mean G'day mate!

Hi there.

Thanks, I got it

FWIW, my temp guage was reading low and I thought I needed a thermostat too, but FES was confirming that the temp was actually 15 degrees more than the guage was reading, i.e. about 90 C as it should be.

MY MISFIRE IS NOW GONE ALL THE WAY!!!! All I have to fix now is the connection to this canister purge valve that I can't find o_0