leongsoon

Hi Smaky! I've done the following: 1. Replaced the relay and socket 2. Checked pump motor, all seems to be fine with no unusual wear 3. Checked the pump and all seems good as well The problem is, I think I might have reassembled the pump the wrong way: The first time I put the pump back together, I had the two figure 8 pieces assembled with the notch on one side, I think this made the created a lock and no oil could get to the exit side of the pump as it was still dry when i disassembled it again. The second time I put it back with one notch to the right and one notch to the left, I checked and oil is squirted out of the pump when the motor runs. However, the pump runs for a long time yet never manages to get anything above 10 bar of pressure. When removing the pump, I removed the hose that connects the Selespeed actuator and reservoir, does this have any effect? Could you tell me the correct arrangement in order to put the pump back properly again? Thanks!

Gonna need some advice again haha! Last Tuesday, my 156 Selespeed started normally, but while I was sitting in the car in N, the N suddenly flashed and changed to 3. I played with the gear selector a bit and finally the car lost all gears. The first thing I did was clean all the relays in front of the battery and gave the Selespeed connector beside the battery a quick blow, but the car will either not crank at all. Or when it does crank and start, gears cannot be selected. I noticed that in this first incident the Selespeed pump was not running. In the end I managed to limp home in 1st when it'll finally engage only that gear. Got home, cleaned the relays with contact cleaner and the car was working perfectly again, back then I suspected the culprit was the big black relay in front of the battery. Plugged in MES and got this: P1758 Clutch Solenoid valve current No signal Stored P1743 Clutch Sensor Signal High Fatal P1769 Pump driving relay stuck Invalid signal Stored P1756 Odd numbered gear engagement No signal Stored For the next 10 days the car worked perfectly fine, until today; I was reversing when the car suddenly went into 2nd gear (limp mode I assume). The symptoms are exactly the same as the last time, so back home I limped in 1st again (yay). After sitting a while the gearbox started working correctly again, but I plugged in MES anyway and got this: P1743 Clutch Sensor Signal High Fatal P1770 Accelerator Pedal Signal Invalid Signal Stored P1760 Brake pedal switch No signal Stored P1769 Pump driving relay stuck Invalid signal Stored P1758 Clutch Solenoid valve current No signal Stored After I cleared the error codes though, the gearbox started misbehaving again. It can engage 1st and 2nd with the engine running, but not Reverse. The same applies with the engine not running, the Selespeed pump is running though. On running MES again no new error codes are displayed so far, but the gearbox is still misbehaving at this point. It's raining and dark now, so I'd try recalibrating the clutch rod length tomorrow, but I've checked and the fluids are sufficient, and everything seems to be alright apart from a possible melted casing at sockets for the big black relay. Is there any part that is faulty in this case? Thanks!

Thanks guys! The car started fine this morning but died 10 minutes later at a traffic light, managed to start it and drive it to the workshop. On running MES only P0335 RPM sensor is present, so I've gotten it replaced with a used original sensor now! New one is out of stock at the moment! Any recommended sources for a good crank sensor online? Regarding the P1760 Brake Pedal Switch, the switch is sorta new, replaced last year, but the workshop guys told me it keeps popping up on the VDC models for some weird reason. Accumulator is sorta new too, so P1769 Pump Driving Relay Stuck is probably caused by a leaky seal around EV0 as you suggested earlier Smaky, I'll try to get it replaced as soon as possible; the accumulator pressure holds on nicely with engine off, it only starts jumping with the engine on. Thank you very much everybody!

Hi guys! Wonder if anyone has had the same problem as me and managed to solve it? My 156's been trouble-free lately, or rather I think I've gotten sorta good at solving the Sillyspeed problems and nothing can phase me, until it finally refused to start after 2+ years of ownership, just when my confidence with the car is at an all time high Anyway, over the past few weeks there have been 3 occasions where the car would start and run fine, then after I've parked it for 30 minutes to 2 hours, both in cold and hot weather, the car will crank strongly, but wouldn't start. The first time round I got off lucky and it started after another few tries, a few days ago I managed to start the car after 20 minutes and numerous tries, but it died after idling a while and I had a difficult time restarting it. Once the car restarts it will just run fine like nothing ever happened. It happened again this evening =.= After the second time this happened, I ran MES and found the following error codes: P0220 Accelerator Potentiometer P1221 Accelerator Potentiometer Track 1 P0335 RPM Sensor P1770 Accelerator Pedal Signal I also get the occasional P1769 Pump Driving Relay Stuck P1760 Brake Pedal Switch I've tried cleaning some of the connectors hidden behind the glove box, but I'm not really sure if I got the correct ones. I'm gonna see if there's another connector above the accelerator pedal and clean it. Is there anything else I should do? Thanks guys!

I think something is loose at the front left suspension and as such my steering wheel is now off-center as well when the car is going straight! I'll try to sort that loose part out and try calibrating the steering angle sensor! Thanks Smaky!

Drove the car for 2 days and the only instance of misbehaving was missing 3rd once at low speed this afternoon. I'm not sure if I'm being paranoid but I did pick up a burnt smell from the right wheel well this morning. Anyway, I had a go at the clutch rod again; adjusted it to 28.308mm, drained clutch, went to 27.970, then readjusted it to 28.140 again before running EOL. EOL failed again the first time but when it did complete the second time it was pretty much bang on 28.050. Drove it for a while and seems fine so far, no more burnt smell from the wheel well, but then again it might have been my new brake pads I checked the records and the clutch kit was last changed towards the end of 2010 and about 40000km ago, could it be worn so fast? Is there any way I can check if the EV0 seals are gone? I'll try to get a set of seals and have em replaced as well!

Oh btw, is it normal for the car to end up in 4th after testing "Even number gears selection sol. valve"? It also ended up in 3rd after testing "Odd number gears selection sol. valve".

Ok, so I adjusted the clutch rod length to 28.056/28.140mm with the engine off, this is the closest I can get to 28.100mm. After that I ran "Product/Service final calibration" using the full version of MES. The first time it failed quoting "unsuitable conditions". Turned the key off and back on, then the calibration completed successfully the second time round. After the calibration the "Clutch engaged position" is back to 27.6mm. Am I doing this correctly at all? Or should I readjust the nut again? Thanks Smaky!

The brakes on my 156 behaves normally, but every morning, when I first start it, it'll almost always display "VDC Error" as soon as I make a left turn. It'll also show up if I do a left or right turn the first time when starting it up after a few hours. My brake pads are fine and the only error code I get is the one for the Brake Switch Pedal which keeps reappearing every now and then, but the pedal switch is a pretty new item as well. Every time the error appears, I just pull over, restart, and it'll go away, but it's pretty worrying all the same. Does anybody know what might be the problem? Thanks!

Hi guys! After much lurking around and reading folks here I am finally with another post haha! About a month back my car missed 2nd and 4th, but once I stop I can get 2nd and R. Put in a new accumulator, adjusted the clutch rod to about 28.3++ and ran EOL Calibration. Gear changes were a lot smoother then, but it would still occasionally refuse to engage 2nd or R right after starting. Disconnecting and reconnecting the Selespeed connector does the trick everytime, I eventually gave it a lot of contact cleaner and it has stopped refusing to select 2nd or R right after startup. Fast forward a few weeks later and it has started to randomly miss 2nd and 4th again, but R works everytime. Right now: 1. The accumulator pressure goes from 55 bar to 43 bar in about a minute with the engine running. Takes about 4 gear changes to bring it from 55 bar to 43 bar. This is with the engine running. 2. With the engine off, accumulator pressure takes about 5 minutes to go from 55 bar to 43 bar. Is the new accumulator holding pressure properly this way? 3. The pump brushes might be worn again so I'll be changing the brushes soon. I suspect it is hanging intermittently because I still get the Selespeed beep sometimes. 4. When I checked with the engine off just now, clutch rod length is now 28.9 - 29.1. Should I do another adjustment and calibration?

Awww, bummer, would be nice if it did work though

This is awesome! Can the same be done for 156 Q-Matic?

There are lots that like, but if I had to choose one, it's gotta be a Miura! Pictures from http://otisblank.com/2011/08/23/monterey-2011-day-1/

Looks very mean! Now push the wheels out all the way to the edge!

I hope the rear suspension bits still show just like this on the production car, screams sportscar to me for some reason!

Nice, I really have a hard time deciding which face I like better, they're both very good, one nods to the future model while the other nods to the roots!

I've got the Magnetti Marelli Selespeed motor, the brushes differ a bit in size, it's pretty much square at 8x8x25mm if I remember correctly.

It really was the number plate light! Funny how I overlooked it the first two times XD

Oh good point! Side lights are fine, but I knew I must have missed something out, gonna check the number plate lights! Thanks K9d!

My 156 just suddenly decided to have the light up the Blown Bulb warning lamp in the dashboard yesterday, I checked normal beam, high beam, front and rear fog lamps, brake lamps, reverse, signals, hazard lights, but all the lights were working properly, any idea what else might have blown? My right front power window started making a noise and refusing to go all the way down, it also needed some help to go back all the way out, so I took the door cards off and stuck my phone camera into the door while operating the window. Turns out that the cable has spliced horribly like a bunch of roots near the top end. Is it possible to just buy and change the cable? I've taken a apart and reassembled a Fiat Multipla's pretensioned window motor before, so hopefully it shouldn't be too different.

Haha, alright, will do that then, gotta wait a bit till next month; wallet's taken a really big beating this month T_T

You're right Smaky; I've been paying attention to the temperature since you first mentioned that my car's thermostat is shot a few weeks back, it really runs too cool around 70c and might be causing the high fuel consumption. Anyway, when I sent my car to the aircon guys they said that since the cooling fan has stopped working, the high engine bay temperature has caused extra high gas pressure in the aircon system, hence the pump keeps disengaging itself to avoid damage to the hoses, I'm not entirely sure if the heat soak has such a profound effect on the aircon, but the cooling fan didn't work when we connected it directly to the battery, so I paid to have them replace it with a new one. There isn't any leak in the aircon system and gas pressure is adequate. With the new fan the aircon is now working again and engine temperature is back at 70c constantly. The fan's high speed kicks in real soon after starting the car. I've yet to check if the fan will come on automatically around 90c with the aircon off. Head gasket should be fine for now; coolant is still clean and no cloud on dipstick, also no sudden change in coolant level, thankfully! How do I test if the thermostat itself is shot, or if some sensor is feeding it the wrong signals? Thanks Smaky!

Pretty nice GT with nice number. GTs are pretty rare around here, people mostly go for Breras instead!

Hi guys! Here I am with another problem again! I'm aware there's currently an active thread about aircon problems here but I reckon the symptoms are different enough to warrant a different thread. For the past 2 days my car has been displaying these symptoms: 1. Aircon is slow to engage or doesn't engage at all even though all the aircon switches and lights are on properly. At idle there is a regular clicking sound every 30 secs near where the compressor clutch is but it doesn't really engage until I apply throttle. Once I've driven the car for about 2 minutes the aircon will kick in. 2. When the aircon is running, the thermostat and radiator fan behaves normally, kicking in around the 90c mark. My car normally runs at the high 70s (75c above or 80c) to roughly 95c 3. When the aircon is not running (even if it is switched on), the radiator fan doesn't work, even when it is already way past the 90c mark. And this is where the problem is; the aircon stopped working an hour ago and the fan didn't kick in. The temperature gauge has almost reached max by the the time I turned the engine off. Any pointers on the problem is much appreciated

Yea me too, my guess is that you have loose or malfunctioning lambda sensors? ...and now, we wait for Smaky to automagically appear! I'm almost certain it'll be something else causing the listed errors XD