Alfa156Melb

Terrific, thanks. Seems an easy job too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know what you said is self explanatory, but are those torque settings for the 17mm nuts applicable to the strut tower nuts too?

Well, I just ordered a pair, mines well overdue.. can hardly wait to fit them ...

Well, I've now got around to ordering some TWR upper wishbones.. its only taken me two years - I've had it up to my eye balls with the creaking noise Things move slowly here in oz... anyway will report after they're fitted, thanks to Smaky's how to!

Whats going on with that exhaust flex there Smaky, looks a bit broken to me! Makes me feel a little better, I noticed some damage on mine today, but compared to that, I've got nothing to worry about.

Smaky just gives it a stern glare and it leaps out whimpering. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Smaky, I'm getting closer, the part number is 46799647 and its on the passenger side vents according to MES but.... In MES, Treated Temperature 1 (Left) & Treated temperature 1 (right) both share the same description: 'This is the temperature measured on the passenger side vents' ...Would it be safe to assume that we are talking about the foot vents here? and in my case the right hand (driver side) foot vent? I know its not that big a deal.. I just hate it when stuff isn't working properly.

Glad I'm not the only one...

If I were to replace it, is the part expensive? just out of interest.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

had a look at eLearn and its looks to be in the dash somewhere.. i may just take it to an indie for this job..

Ok, where is the rtt and other than a dealer, any suggestions on where to source one? Wrecker would be a good start I guess. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Crap, sorry about that, I got my calibrations mixed up! Listen to Smaky not me! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you're in Melbourne, try Maranello PurSang in Brunswick, they're outstanding and may be able to help.. http://www.maranellopursang.com/ The clutch rod length must be 28mm - 28.5 by the way. in fact it needs to be as close to 28mm as possible but NEVER under. Fixing that may sort may of your woes out...

I have yet another question for you Sir Smakalot... I've noticed that my climate control is behaving differently than I'm used to over the last few days.. we've had some warmer weather lately, which may be the reason.. so for now anyway, i'm just monitoring it to see.. But this made me plug MES in to see if there were any faults recorded... there weren't.. However, I noticed that in the Parameters, Treated temperature 1 (Right) isnt reporting anything.. see pic. Is this normal? Also, according to MES I seem to have a pollution sensor.. under what conditions does that activate? It seems to me, when I drive through the tunnels under Melbourne, through thick exhaust fumes, just about choking and struggling to see 20 meters in front of me, Nothing actually changes on the climate control... I would have thought that it would change to recirc at the very least.. it doesnt, it just seems to want to slowly suffocate me in heavy traffic.

Smaky will help you with number 1, but to save him some time.. Referring to point number 2 - Yes, FES, (which is now called MES) will calibrate the clutch. Its called 'Production/Service final calibration'. You can find it under the GEARBOX ECU then click the Actuators tab (F7) See pic below. Point number 3 - AlfaDiag is just an alternative to MES nd is inferior. Besides, I don't think new licences are available any more. MultiECUScan is a more modern program, using current software technologies. Its considerably better. But to answer your question, yes AlfaDiag will do the same thing, it's called EOL Calibration I think. Just stick with MES. (Remember, MES is the old FiatECUScan. It recently changed its name to MultiECUScan) Whenever you make any adjustments to the gearbox, such as clutch length adjustment, which i think you've recently done, you must calibrate the gearbox. And yes, assuming the system is mechanically good order, it will make a big difference, it will be smoother, will shift faster, and your clutch will love you for it. You also need to periodically calibrate the box, generally every service - so 6 month intervals. I do it more often, because when you press execute, the car makes some funky noises and starts changing gears by itself, it always fascinates me. I might add, this is done with the engine OFF, so there's no risk of the car driving off by itself!.. although that would be even more interesting... :Big Grin:

all right, i guess ill stop worrying about it.... thanks Smaky.

Coolant hangs around the 80-90 area measured in MES.. gauge is reading low though. It's very good oil, but if oil doesn't get up to temp, then the viscosity is too low and would hamper flow - wouldn't it? I reckon the oil is about 50 degrees C.. its only warm to touch.

Is there a code for that? :Big Grin:

This is brief 'cos i have chopped the end of my finger off, turns out they're fairly critical to typing i've discovered. My oil never seems to get hot.. In my experience, after a long drive the oil should be bloody hot to touch, yet mine is warm.. so given the 10w60 specified oil, my worry is that I'll be losing what little flow I might otherwise have if the oil was hot.. I know the car has an oil cooler, would it also have an oil thermostat? Anyway, would this be indicative of a blockage somewhere?

Ok, cool thanks.. One thing i notice with my car is the oil never seems to get hot.. I rarely drive it hard though, and its a bloody cold winter.. But I can literally lick the oil off the dip stick after a long drive.. it wouldn't burn my tongue. Feels warm (at a guess, 50 degrees c) to the touch. This is bugged me for awhile now, 10w60 is thick afterall, and i want flow..

Yep, sounds exactly the same as my motor when its big end when pear shaped.

Ah so it's what ever the last mechanic felt like using.. is there an advantage going with the larger filter?

Well I was expecting it to be much harder than it turned out to be.. Simple job. I didn't grease the cables, but they were in good order anyway, actually everything back there was pretty much like new, but for some dirt and dust. I have new rotors on the front along with ds2500 ferodo pads and although there was an improvement, it wasn't as good as Ive heard.. but now - the car's transformed.. which i guess is to be expected .. lol

After changing my oil and filter last night I came across a small complication that I hope you might be able to clear up Smaky... My car is a 2003 JTS, but last last year I replaced the motor with a post 2004 jts. When I ordered the oil filter from EB Spares, they only provided one option for JTS filters so I ordered that, along with providing my chassis number (which of course, would not have reflected the fact i have a later motor fitted.) Anyway, whilst the new filter fits fine, its much smaller than the one that came off.... In other forums, some have discussed this, but I couldn't find a definitive answer on whether they are compatible.. Can you confirm they are, or not please?

All good Smaky. I found an answer you prepared earlier.. here it is for the benefit of all: Originally Posted by jug its nothing to do with alfas, all modern cars have a proportioning valve. if you force it backwards it will allow too much brake effort to go to the back brakes (no more brake balance control). the reason rear caliper pistons are far more commonly wound back in (compared to front) is to protect the proportioning valve, but you can still damage it if you wind it back in too quickly because the valve is only meant to take pressure in one direction. i was always taught to bleed the caliper every time you push the piston back in, that way you can never apply force the wrong way on the valve. starting work at a garage doesnt mean you should ignore all the teaching you received prior to starting work, but i know it is normal practice in industry to simply force the piston back and then not bleed the brakes at all to save time regardless of age or mileage or if you're charging an extra £8 for brake fluid that you dont even use. i understand why that is done, but that does not mean it is a good thing, and it is not a good enough reason to join in, especially on your own car. I'd have to agree that your reasoning is codswallop, if the fluid was meant to travel in one direction only then the brakes would never release. The way the proportioner works is by closing off the side with with the most flow to equalize the pressure to both sides/ends to equalize braking effect. If the fluid did not pass BACK THROUGH it when the pedal was released then you'd be locked up PERMINANTLY. For this reason you can just wind the caliper back in with the cap of the fluid reservoir,but not with an air wrench (for christs sake) you'll do it too fast and the valve will slam over as the flow will be quicker than if you do it manually, as a result it may well blow a seal inside, but manually it will never damage that valve.