flyblo5

Thanks Alex, I thought as much. It's a long shot but I don't suppose any parts are interchangeable with the manual box as I have one kicking about? It will have to wait for a bit anyway as there isn't a painkiller on the planet that will let me do anything like that at the moment.

Finally managed to get a second sensor and fitted both new parts. With Ignition on but engine not running it went through the gears both up and down with a little wobble in 4 on the way down. Tried again and the same thing happened, it would stick between 4 & 3 on the way down the gears but was fine on the way up. Connected MES but did not show any fault codes. Tried to run the final calibration but it stopped short with a message 3rd-4th sel.error. Tried again with the same result. Answers on a postcard please.

Stiff wire brush and some Vaseline did the trick.

Speak for yourself

Probably lost in translation.

Last time I had something like that I had to go to the Docs sharpish.

No other warning lights or fault codes on mes at all, except for maf that I have unplugged to get the air ducts out of the way for better access.

Smaky is the man you need. He checks in every couple of days so sit tight and I'm sure he'll be along to sort you out. In the meantime it may be worth posting as many details of your car / problem to save time.

Already swapped them round which is why I think i'm getting different problems. Swapped them back and the origanal problem re-occured. With ignition on but engine not running I can select R,N 1 & 2 and change between them with no problem. As soon as I try and select 3 it has a hissy fit and sticks in 2, although you can hear it trying to change even when you turn the ignition off. Disconnect the battery and reconnect and all is good again. It will also start and with the engine running but car stationary I can select R,N,1 & 2. as soon as you try for 3 (which I know it won't do with the engine running) the same thing happens. This I think proves the point and unless Smaky tells me different I'll be ordering the part as soon as pennies allow. It looks like Smaky was on the money yet again, Thanks Alex.

OK so I removed the sensor and tested by leaving plugged in and rotated the centre and both the dash gear indicator and the gear requested / selected display on mes changed accordingly, and probably more importantly displayed the same gear. To prove the point I removed the other identical sensor and plugged that one in and got the same results. At times though I did notice the signal drop out or freeze for a second or so. Having inspected the gearbox loom there were one or two kinks which could have been breaks in the cable. I repaired these and refitted everything, ran the calibration on MES and briefly was able to select 1,2 and R with the engine off (I believe this to be correct) but could not start as the battery was a bit flat by then. Since then it won't shift out of neutral but won't turn over either. So is the best thing to change the sensor and see what happens or are there any other suggestions?

Thanks, That's tomorrows job then.

OK, so I removed the sensor today and it's as clean as a whistle with no signs of contamination. It is however and after market part and not a Magneti Marelli. I do remember having to change one while the engine was out and swapping them around so the new one was at the back as it's harder to get to. The CTS aftermarket part is around £40.00 while the Marelli is about £140. but if the after market part has failed after 4000 miles I'm inclined to go MM. Is there a way of testing the unit before lashing out £140 that I haven't really got?

Thanks, I'll check it out tomorrow.

After much fiddling around and more fun with MES it kind of worked again, briefly but didn't seem happy. I did manage to get a couple of fault codes, P1762 Overdrive band failed off and P1769 AG4 Transmission Torque Modulation Fault. When it failed again (without driving it) it had the same symptoms. At one point one of the two solenoids pictured started to buzz as if it was jammed. It's hard to say for sure which one it was as they are quite close and the vibration could be felt in both. Are these the items you are referring to Alex?

Thanks Alex, Is there an easy way of testing it?

today my selespeed decided to be a pain in the arse. Driving along when it suddenly dropped to Neutral, although the display still says 2. Tried the usual pulling the fuses, disconnected the battery and crossed the terminals to discharge the system but nothing worked. There are no faults according to MES and I have even tried swapping the gearbox ECU with a spare I have but still the same. Selespeed pump seems to be working ok. Any ideas?

Another Selespeeed Spoertwagon. Best combo for the 156.

Squeak = Dry Bushes

Sorry no

Fix and flog or strip for future spares.

It's do-able if you are reasonably competent with the spanners but there is a lot to swap but you have a complete can as a donor. Assuming the manual is a 1.8 or 2.0 TS then it's Gearbox, Engine (if applicable) Engine bay wiring loom, gearbox ECU, Pedal box, Gear change lever and linkage,Steering wheel and wiring (for gear-change) Rev Counter, Exhaust and Cats if the manual is not a CF3 engine, Front brakes if the manual car is a 1.6 with solid discs. Clutch and possibly flywheel (not sure on this) if you are using the engine from the manual car. If not it may be worth a clutch change anyway depending on when it was last done (much easier with the engine out if that's the way you go. Also worth checking the front ARB if the engine comes out as it's a damn site easier with an empty engine bay. Not sure if there is a difference in the driveshafts but you'll have both. You will also need access to MES to set things up if you separate the engine and 'box. I may have missed a few bits out but I'm sure Smaky will be along in a day or so to correct any errors as he is the man to talk to about selespeeds. So all in all not a small job but in my opinion worth it to keep the Selespeed gearbox. Anyone with a sensible head will tell you to scrap your Sele and put a "new" manual box in the Sportwagon but how boring would that be? Still if you decide to follow that path I have a Manual box from a 2.0 twinny you are welcome to, free to a good home. I have never used it as it came attached to an Engine but see no reason to suspect it doesn't work and it will need a clean as it's been sitting for a while but it's yours if you want it (or anyone else reading this) As I said I don't want anything for it, Just trying to clear a bit of space. And you never know your Sele may surprise you and pass. Good luck

get rid of the wheels and front grill it could be a 3 series. Having said that I don't dislike it. Front is nice but not sure of the back end, that's very BMW.

Had a similar problem with my 156 Sele. turned out to be the the Rev counter. The bulb warning system has a circuit board / chip in the back of the rev counter and when it fries you get a rear light perminantly on, but very dim so you won't always see it. Doesn't take a lot of power but left overnight who knows. It's one of those "only in an Alfa" things. Strange but true. I didn't believe it either when Smaky told me but I changed the rev counter and all was well. Worth a quick check before pulling bits off.

Still doesn't answer the REAL question. Why do you need wipers in Oz?

According to this website there are only 27 156 Selespeed Veloce Sportwagons left on the road in the uk .http://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle/alfa_romeo_156_selespeed_vel_swagon If it is true it's a crying shame. One of the best 156 models produced in my opinion. By the way there are only 11 156 GTA Selespeed sportwagons