Smaky 73 Report post Posted October 29, 2013 Push it on, squeeze the tab ane wiggle it off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Norlig 1 Report post Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) I got it off. There was a clip you had to push between the connector and the body of the idle actuator. I got a beep from my multimeter from all of the spots. The ohm measured was under 10. Ranging from 5-8ohm. Is that acceptable? Black cable around the blue tube is the cam sensor cable, temporarily positioned there to keep it from dropping down. Ignore Ohm readings here, as they are barely touching. Edited October 30, 2013 by Norlig Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Norlig 1 Report post Posted October 31, 2013 is 5-8ohm too much? you wrote there should be none. I meassured this from; CAM sensor cable, to Pin 29. Idle Actuator cable to Pin 29, Cam Sensor cable to Idle Actuator cable. It was more or less the same on all of these different tests. Is there any other ways I can test the Idle actuator? I found a used Idle actuator here in Norway for 80£, should I go for this, or buy a new one for 138£(+35%)? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfizta 6 Report post Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) will try to answer to your 2nd question. according to this picture you should also have continuity between pins on the left column (idle actuator connector) and pins at the right column. M10B stands for plug B of the ECU. Smaky, correct me if I'm worng, please can't explain the missing pin numbers on the left too... 1st question, could be just residual resistance, but I'm not sure. at least you got continuity. 3rd question, it's a tough one. with used parts I would try before buy, but the new one is considerably more expensive than the used one... it's your choice... but don't precipitate yourself. as I said before, try to make as sure as possible that is that the part at fault... anyway, if you can, drop us the make and part number of your lambda sensor. there are 3 different part numbers available for the 1.6 TS, but only one compatible with yours. there's a big chance you got the wrong one, although could not be your issue... Edited October 31, 2013 by alfizta Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfizta 6 Report post Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) interesting link of a dismantled idle actuator. might be the potenciometer that gets worn over time... http://alfisti.ru/ph...hp?f=20&t=46192 Edited October 31, 2013 by alfizta Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Norlig 1 Report post Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the Link! seems I can also take the actuator apart on the cog side and look at the teeth for damage, thought it was a sealed unit (because I have touched the valve once) I'll give it a try in the weekend to open it and look for damage. I'll also see if I am able to get a picture of the numbers on the lambda sensor (I didnt buy or install it) Edited October 31, 2013 by Norlig Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfizta 6 Report post Posted October 31, 2013 other very interesting test. this guy appears to have managed to check resistance between most of idle actuator pins, from 2 to 7, using ECU conectors A and B, with throtle closed and opened. it's in russian, but is easily translated to english. you could do this check and make a comparison. http://alfisti.ru/ph...t=46192#p936868 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted November 2, 2013 Why is none of the loom on your engine where it should be? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Norlig 1 Report post Posted November 2, 2013 Why is none of the loom on your engine where it should be? loom? Got the Idle actuator apart, could not see any damage to the teeth on the gears, but any clips that were on it broke off, they were weak as toothpicks. got it tight again using cable ties :Black Eye: the engine is the same when I got it back together though. (reseted the parameters and actuator position) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfizta 6 Report post Posted November 2, 2013 loom? cables Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Norlig 1 Report post Posted November 4, 2013 Why is none of the loom on your engine where it should be? I havent seen any other Alfa 156 engines so I cant say what should be where, I just put them so that they dont come in contact with moving parts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfizta 6 Report post Posted November 4, 2013 (edited) This one is nice. Credits: Gazza and another one. Credits: Chris155 Edited November 4, 2013 by alfizta Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Norlig 1 Report post Posted November 4, 2013 I see my MAF plug is the other way around, does that matter? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfizta 6 Report post Posted November 4, 2013 as long Smaky is around, there is always a possibility of me being wrong , but I'm sure there's no problem. in fact, I had mine like this since I saw yours. first time I saw yours I thought you could have your MAF pugged the wrong way, but then I noticed that is just a matter of turning 180º the rubber protection of the MAF connector. it's more practical the way you have. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfizta 6 Report post Posted November 4, 2013 remember to fully clip the coil pack conections air con compressor did not look to be connected rpm sensor was plugged correctly, but the cable was going over the fuel pipe that goes to the injectors. should pass under. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Norlig 1 Report post Posted November 4, 2013 I don't have air con, so no compressor The cable for the rpm sensor had a bit of slack on it as I couldn't get it back into its clips. So I didn't want it to rest on the exhaust. I long as it's analog signal doesn't get any interference it should be good, no? Changed wheels today, stupid of me to forget to check the lambda numbers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfizta 6 Report post Posted November 4, 2013 ok! yes! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted November 5, 2013 This one is nice. Credits: Gazza CF2 with coolant leak. and another one. Credits: Chris155 CF3 original image by Smaky when I was on AO. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfizta 6 Report post Posted November 5, 2013 CF3 original image by Smaky when I was on AO. sorry wasn't aware of that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted November 5, 2013 dON'T WORRY, ALL OF MY INTERLECTUAL PROPERTY ON THAT SITE HAS BEEN POACHED. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfizta 6 Report post Posted November 6, 2013 (edited) look at the bright side. it is now world's property like a master classical piece of an anonymous author Edited November 6, 2013 by alfizta Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfizta 6 Report post Posted November 26, 2013 we got one more man down. Norlig is selling his 156... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted November 27, 2013 I think his MAF is fitted backwards anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alfizta 6 Report post Posted November 27, 2013 looks like it's backwards because of the way the cables are, but it is very easy to turn the cables the other way. I did it myself without having to turn the MAF. if you watch closely you can confirm it. it's a shame cause I think the idle actuator was the only thing left to check and probably was going to work... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Constantine 0 Report post Posted November 5, 2014 For the record, and having looked at the other pics, I'm inclined to agree. That's not my pic. - Chris155 I found this thread after finding out THOUSANDS of my pics are circulating the net without credit, so you're not exactly a fucking martyr alex. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
