Gibot123 16 Report post Posted September 20, 2013 Anyone got any idea what sort of price I should be looking at to re grind a crank on a 2.0 any advice as to do's &dont's would be really useful Cheers . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smiffy 99 Report post Posted September 20, 2013 No mate But would be interested too. Need to start thinking about getting the gtv sorted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flyblo5 17 Report post Posted September 20, 2013 Had mine done a couple of weeks ago. Crank regrind £15.00 per face so if they all need doing £135.00 Oversize Big End Brg £32.05 per set (4 Pairs) Oversize Main Bearings £33.33 per set (5 Pairs) Crankshaft Thrust Bearings £7.34 per set Small End Bearings £5.44 per set (4) although they will need to be machined and honed to match each Gudeon Pin individually at about £12.50 each. Although it has to be said these very rarely need replacing. Piston Rings £90.56 pet set (4 cylinders) if you are interested. You will aldo need to replace the Oil Seals at both ends £5.28 and £32.40 respectivly and Oil Pump Gasket (some say you can remove the Crank without removing the oil Pump but i've never managed it) £19.18 (all Alfa workshop /Jamie porter). You then have to give our friends in Westminster an additional 20% for the pleasure of spending your own money. As far as Do's and Dont's go. Make sure you mark all Big end Caps (and Con Rod/Piston assembly if you are removing them) so you can match them up again on re-assembly. It's always best to keep them in the origanal pairings. The same with the Main Bearing Caps although they should have markings om them. Remove the Thrust bearings (located down the side of the central Main beaing on the block) before removing the Crankshaft and note which way round they go. It saves confusion later. When you rebuild make sure everything is CLEAN, CLEAN,CLEAN and when you've done that CLEAN AGAIN. Have fun Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibot123 16 Report post Posted September 20, 2013 hmmmm thats a fair bit more than I had thought . thanks for the advice though really useful. cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted September 20, 2013 Maximum workable regrind is 0.2mm but they never last long afterwards (usually 50K miles), really is cheaper to source a good 2nd hand engine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flyblo5 17 Report post Posted September 20, 2013 Maximum workable regrind is 0.2mm but they never last long afterwards (usually 50K miles), really is cheaper to source a good 2nd hand engine. and easier Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibot123 16 Report post Posted September 21, 2013 Maximum workable regrind is 0.2mm but they never last long afterwards (usually 50K miles), really is cheaper to source a good 2nd hand engine. thats the only thing how do you tell a good one from a bad one I thought the one I had got was OK :Money Eyes: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flyblo5 17 Report post Posted September 21, 2013 The problem with second hand engines is that unless you know the last owner it's guesswork, and trying to find a low mileage unit is getting harder. It's all well and good when the breakers offer you a 30 warrenty, but you still have to get the bugger out again and return it if you have a problem. Depending on your location you could try RGWM on 156.net (if you're up norff) he's pretty reasonably priced and won't sell you a duff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibot123 16 Report post Posted September 22, 2013 (edited) Yes that's exactly what happened with mine bought it but due to the fact it was the first twinny I had changed ,the weather and the fact I did it in a car par it was a couple of months by the time I'd bought the belts tensioners and tools to set it up the warranty had already run out ! Took ages checking and double checking the timing setting and TDC all seemed fine all did what it was supposed to started first time when fitted drove nice then the first time I took it on the dual carriage way for a proper run it blew. A bit odd as had been using it round the town for 2weeks and was great . Still a mystery as to what happened . Does make me very wary of buying another 2nd hand unit . Think I might buy a car if I can raise enough cash but then if that works ok there won't be any point in changing the engine. Edited September 22, 2013 by Gibot123 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibot123 16 Report post Posted September 25, 2013 Smaky is it worth just trying to replace the shell bearing in hue original engine I took out of my 147 without out re grinding the crank or is it just a waste of time and money? ( not the one that blew up ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted September 26, 2013 That would be a waste. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibot123 16 Report post Posted September 26, 2013 Ok thought as much . Just trying to find a cheapish way to get the car back on the road but looks like I've ground to a halt. One car two engines and no go . May have to resort to fitting a chain and some pedals he hehe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites