Air Filter Replacement

[Bigdar 62]

Are there any downsides to fitting a k&n air filter and doing away with the air box ?

I'm not really looking for any performance gain, but I'm guessing it'd sound better and look a lot nicer in the engine bay.

 

Edit:

It's on a 2.0 twinny

Edited September 15, 2013 by Bigdar

[smiffy 99]

The oil used in the k&n fucks the maf up, bcm cda is probably the best but smaky would say leave original

[Gibot123 16]

You could put a K&N panel in the box .

The thing with cone filters is they really work by increasing the air flow so will the in box replcement .as you are probably aware. The best air for that is cold air rather that hot engine air . But apart from that no real reason .have you got a 156 ?

If so you can use the box and fit the filter in the box then re do the pipe work out of the box that goes up inside the inner arch.

What ever you do make sure the cone (if its in the engine bay) is high up not low down to keep it away from any chance of sucking in water splashed up from underneath.

If you do fit it the recommendation is to remove the maf and drive the car with the cone for about 20/30 miles to get rid of any excess filter oil that may get sucked in to the maf and causing it to malfunction.

Then put it all back together again. You will get the engine light on wile you do this but should go out after you refit the maf !

Edited September 16, 2013 by Gibot123

[Bigdar 62]

Ok, so if I keep the box, can I change the silencer set up ?

 

[Gibot123 16]

Ok, so if I keep the box, can I change the silencer set up ?

You talking about the exhaust or the air box .

You can use a k&n but your best bet would be to fit new pipe to the box under the wing this gets rid of the restrict or/resonator you fit pipe of the same diameter straight through from under the wing to the box then fit the filter inside the box it sits in the top where the pipe goes at the mo . Then from there you use the original pipe and maf from the air box to the plenum chamber this will give a free-flow intake.

The benefits are minimal but does allow it to breathe a little more freely. This would be good if you upgrade the exhaust as the complete conversion will give a 5-10% power increase this is very minor and as I said it will let the engine breathe a little better.

You won't notice a big gain in power just a bit more free revving.

It will growl a little more just a bit .

What are you trying to do anyway is it just cause you need to replace bits soon or just to be a bit different.

I'm stupid should have asked that before waffling on .

I've been tempted on mine but for all the cost couldn't tally it with what you gain to be honest.

The exhaust and intake both help airflow through the engine a good S/steel system will be a little better than an off the shelf mild steel and will last a lot longer . All depends on how much you want to spend .

Edited September 16, 2013 by Gibot123

[Smaky 73]

The size of the filter or the flow it allows through have hever been an issue with the 147/156, as the throttle body could never allow the maximum flow which could be extracted through the standard filter. The problem is the air pick up, which is choked, fit the V6/JTD S pipe and airflow/power picks up a bit.

[Bigdar 62]

And what about this resonator thingy ?

Does it make it sound any better, or is it not worth it ?

[Gibot123 16]

the resinator is the bit that helps reduce the intake noise and slightly restrics the flow.

As Smacky said its the intake pipe up under the inner wing that would be the one to change .

[K9d 108]

I've been looking into this for my 166, 2.5 V6, there is a cold air intake from the wing which is nice and high up.

One suggestion I've seen is as said above fit the new filter in the existing airbox and leave the cold air feed in place.

The resonator, or at least I think its that, on mine gives the engine a flatulent sound or like its blowing a raspberry when acceleration.

From what I can see the biggest restriction is the MAF or rather the pipework that holds the MAF its by far and away much smaller than any other bit of the pipework.

The resonator is the huge bit that my allen keys are on in this photo

 

This is different to the 156 V6.

I've searched for a replacement for it, there are plenty for a 3.0 but because my throttle body comes out at a different angle they wont fit

What I've done for now is push a bit of pipe 58mm ID all the way through from the 90 degree bend above the airbox to just past the corrugated rubber bit near the throttle body. This, I hope, makes the air miss the resonator and go straight to the engine.

It definitely sounds less farty , don't think there's any real difference in performance, but wasn't expecting any.

[Gibot123 16]

i think the internal dimension for the 2.5 is 76mm if that helps i'm sure thats what is is on the 156 v6 is your air box below the resonator. Is it a square cylinder type like the 156?

[K9d 108]

76mm sounds about right.

 

Yes the airbox is a square one below the resonator.

 

I will have a look to see if there are any alternative air intakes for the 156, they may fit mine.

 

Is your 164 engine the same as my 166 ? 2.5 24v 190ish bhp, fuck all torque below 4k rpm

[Smaky 73]

Pointless Craig, look at the diameter of those blingy pipes, that is the V6s restriction.

[K9d 108]

What I would really like is more torque low down, even if it was at the expense of some top end.

[Smaky 73]

Then really the only way is to remap it, but it'll learn it's way back to where it is now so no point.

[Gibot123 16]

76mm sounds about right.

 

Yes the airbox is a square one below the resonator.

 

I will have a look to see if there are any alternative air intakes for the 156, they may fit mine.

 

Is your 164 engine the same as my 166 ? 2.5 24v 190ish bhp, fuck all torque below 4k rpm

 

 

no mines the 3.0 24v loads of torque thats the only reason I've kept it for ten years :Big Grin: lovely engine

Looks like it'll be back on the road sooner than I though as my 147 blew up todaY IN A BIG CLOUD OF SMOKE :Black Eye: .

Smacky seems to think I have put the oil pump strainer gasket on the wrong way round when I refitted it and its been sucking in air not oil. Think its thrown a con rod .It was very impressive.

Really annoying as I really took my time when I changed the engine took me days in the car park. I'only done about 60/70 miles and today I thought I would take it for a proper run as its not been over 40mph since I changed the engine. first time over 4000rpm and BANG.

I'd fitted new belts w/pump tensioners the lot .

Edited September 18, 2013 by Gibot123

[Smaky 73]

It's only speculation so far but as I said in the PM it's where I would look first, after you get past the shock of the holes in the block...

[Gibot123 16]

It might make an interesting coffee table

[smiffy 99]

Talking about coffee tables

I've got 2 rover v8 engines that will make nice ones

[K9d 108]

Then really the only way is to remap it, but it'll learn it's way back to where it is now so no point.

 

Its all kind of academic now

 

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