K9d 108 Report post Posted August 17, 2013 My 166 is back on the road it has always had a heavy clutch, but now it seems more than ever. When I push the pedal there is about an inch of travel with no resistance, then its heavy after that, I have to really push the pedal all the way to the floor to change gear and on some changes can feel resistance in the gear stick, this could possibly be me not pushing the clutch far enough though. The brakes are also heavy, as the car has been sat for 18 months I'm planning to change the brake fluid, weather permitting tomorrow. How do I bleed the clutch ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibot123 16 Report post Posted August 17, 2013 If you have the cylinder on top of the gearbox you should be able to see the bleed nipple on the cylinder . Bleed as you would a calliper. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
K9d 108 Report post Posted August 17, 2013 Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibot123 16 Report post Posted August 17, 2013 Did you sort it in the end. I don't think the 166 is the same but just a thought . The 164 has what they call a damper on the clutch which has a in and out flexible pipe and this can be a bit of a pain when bleeding . Don't think yours has this but just a thought if you were having problems getting a good pedal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
K9d 108 Report post Posted August 17, 2013 Planning to have a look at it tomorrow. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibot123 16 Report post Posted August 17, 2013 The brakes will need more force to start with if you have rust on the discs untill you get through to the surface again. You may need to replace the clutch slave cylinder they do go but they are only about £30 and easy to do . But bleed it all and see how it goes its probably just where it's been stood. Brake fluid does absorb moisture over time that's why they recommend its changed every couple of years. Have you got a helper to bleed the system. It does help. Let us know how you get on. You probably know the rule of thumb for bleeding is to start with the furthest calliper from the master cylinder . Yours would be the driver side rear then pass rear etc.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flyblo5 17 Report post Posted August 17, 2013 It's your own fault for buying one of those silly manual things. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibot123 16 Report post Posted August 18, 2013 Take no notice he's just jealous Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibot123 16 Report post Posted August 18, 2013 At least it doesn't have to be diagnosed by a man in a white coat holding a clip board Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
K9d 108 Report post Posted August 18, 2013 It's your own fault for buying one of those silly manual things. I bought this before I saw the light At least it doesn't have to be diagnosed by a man in a white coat holding a clip board Erm, yep I've got one of those too. I like to cover my bases so currently have 166 2.5 V6 Manual 156 SW 2.4 JTD 10 Manual 147 2.0 Sele This gives me a choice each day Petrol or diesel Manual or Auto (ish) Comfort or fun Large estate or other 4, 5 or 6 cylinders its a bloody minefield My decision is based on which one isn't blocked in by the others Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
K9d 108 Report post Posted August 18, 2013 Bled my brakes and clutch. Used this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180815371177?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649, makes the job very easy. The fluid from the brakes was nice and clean, but they have been done recently so that was to be expected. The fluid from the clutch was nasty looking, so I kept going until nice clean fluid was flowing out, had to refill the bleed kit twice. The brakes feel a little better, but that could be a placebo effect. The clutch is better, I still have to push it right to the floor and have to select 3rd before I can get it to go into reverse. I think I will change the clutch slave cylinder, it looks an easy enough job and also change the gearbox oil. Gear changes aren't helped by the position of the gear stick, its too far forward and the stick is too long. I will have a look in the foot well and see if I can work out why the clutch pedal has an inch of travel before any resistance is felt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
K9d 108 Report post Posted August 30, 2013 Iinvestigated the inch of travel on my clutch pedal before anything happens, by laying upside down in the footwell, not the most comfy of positions, I can see that where the clutch pedal and the master cylinder meet there is a lot of free play. It looks like the pin that joins them has worn, about 2mm of play at that point equates to about an inch at the pedal. I've worked out that I could get the pin out with a bit of effort but not get it back in unless I either move the slave cylinder so the clutch is not pushing back on it and then the master cylinder or even more of a pain drain the system. For now I've "fixed" it with a fuse puller and a cable tie shoved in the gap, not the best of solutions but it has halved the free play for now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibot123 16 Report post Posted August 30, 2013 (edited) Hi have you ever changed the clutch and what mileage has it done. Now you've changed the fluid and fiddled with the pedal does it actually go in gear properly and does it feel better . It does sound from what you've said that the clutch itself may be worn. It could well be that the cover is worn. Is it still stiff when its operated . Edited August 30, 2013 by Gibot123 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
K9d 108 Report post Posted August 30, 2013 I have never changed the clutch and I suspect its still on the original, the mileage is 138,000 so it will be getting near the end of its life. Changing fluid seemed to help and just driving it helped, I haven't driven it since fiddling with the pedal but just trying it on my drive there is definitely more movement at the bottom of the pedal travel before it starts to bite. What do you mean by cover ? When trying to get reverse it usually help to put it into 3rd then go for reverse. When I'm driving its fine apart from Alfa ergonomics that require long arms and short legs, plus the travel on the gear stick is quite long. My 156, 2.4 JTD 10v, is a much nicer experience the stick is better placed and its operation is so smooth and that's on 190,000 miles, and I think original clutch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibot123 16 Report post Posted August 30, 2013 The actual clutch cover thats part of the plate the clutch itself. it could be stiff due to lack of use but on that milage its probably getting close to needing replacement. there was one for a156 2.5 on ebay for £78 ish today dont know how good it was it looked like new old stock I think there the same . that 3.0 sporttronic looks quite good though. tough choice :He He: If you inteend to keep one the 3.0 would be my preference. need to check the tax price though with it being a 2001. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
K9d 108 Report post Posted August 30, 2013 Already checked the tax £280 for the 3.0 against £225 for my older 2.5. I think it will be a case of run the 2.5 for a year, only buy bits that can easily be transferred over then see how clutch/mot go next year. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites