Inner Cv Joints On A 2.4 Jtd

[A KIRK 1]

Are they that difficult to do, one of mine has a major split in the boot, so was thinking of replacing joint, other side is perrished so should get away with just a new CV boot.

 

I also need to do lower arms, and maybe ARB, so I guess it obviously makes sense to do it all at the same time, was more concerned how the inner CV joints come of from the drive shaft, is it just a case of hit it hard with a large hammer?

 

Then again I might just get soeone else to do the lot, as I get the hum working on cars these days

[Smaky 73]

On the 10V 2.4 the easy way is to remove the outer half of the shaft completely, this means:

 

Remove the wheel (of course),

 

Remove the hub nut (36mm),

 

Remove the 6 allen bolts around the inner joint (6mm allen) also ensure you collect the 6 X 13mm nuts from the inside of the joint,

 

remove the Brake hose and ABS wire (and wear indicator wire on L/H side) from the holders,

 

Remove the lower shock to fork bolt (19mm),

 

Split the upper wishbone joint (17mm and splitter),

 

Push the outer joint through the hub,

 

Levering the lower arm down, position the shock fork so the outer CV joint can swing out and forwards of the hub and then gently wiggling the shaft will come out.

 

Now tap the end plate off of the joint, clean out the grease to find the circlip and remove it,

 

Remove the boot band clamps and slide the joint off the shaft then the remains of the boot.

 

To rebuild simply reverse the order, remembering to add the fresh grease to the joint.

 

This should take approximately 1 hour per side.

 

 

 

 

But Andy as usual you know the other method of doing this.

[A KIRK 1]

Thank you for that. I think I may well take the other option in a couple of weeks or so