dlrogers 0 Report post Posted February 20, 2012 Hi everyone - I'm new to this forum (advice from a fellow user at alfaowner). I am hoping someone (smaky) may be able to advise me here. Short story...2002 Alfa 147 won't select gears. Car wont start because dash indicates car is in first even though it is in neutral. I have a donor actuator and have swapped out sensors and solenoids (apart from EV3 and EV4). The following is what I typed up from the FES scan. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Number of rewrites 0 Gear/engage position 14.440mm Selection position 17.325mm Clutch pressure plate travel 18.354mm Clutch pressure plate reference6.216mm Accelerator position 0% Hydraulic circuit pressure 52.115 bar Coolant temperature 24.0 degC Battery voltage 12.1111 V Engine speed 0 rpm Clutch RPM 0 rpm Vehicle speed 0 km/h Odd number gears current 530 mA (when attempting) Even number gears current 530 mA (when attempting) Clutch solenoid valve current 1505 mA (when attempting) Actual torque 147 Nm Calculated engine torque 147 Nm A/T selector lever position No request Gear engaged 1 (it is actually in neutral) Desired gear 1 Automatic transmission OFF Drivers door Open Brake pedal position Released Ignition key ON Pump relay control OFF (ON when pump is going) Engine startup Not allowed Acoustic signal Off High gear selection Not active Low gear selection Not active Load relay ON Starter circuit Not requested Clutch engage position(SA) 18.354mm (SA = self-adjusted) PIS closed position (SA) 12.138mm Solenoid valve current at Zero flow 998.4 mA Gearbox oil temperature 15.8 degC Clutch temperature 44 degC (don’t know how…car not running) Neutral engaged counter 4073 First gear engaged counter 326 Second gear engaged counter 278 Third gear engaged counter 86 Fourth gear engaged counter 0 Fifth gear engaged counter 0 Reverse gear engaged counter 1 Pump ON counter 320 System ON time 505 min Clutch overtemp time 0 min Missed selection counter 0 Clutch RPM too high counter 0 Missed gearshift counter 255 Clutch insufficient release counter 0 Clutch engaging problem counter 0 Not disengaging counter 0 Selection in excess temp 0 Missed shift counter 1st 0 Missed shift counter 2nd 0 Missed shift counter 3rd 0 Missed shift counter 4th 0 Missed shift counter 5th 0 Missed shift counter Reverse 0 Lever request fault counter Insufficient hydraulic pressure counter Gearbox self calibration Correct Distance covered in Neutral 0km Distance covered in1st 0km Distance covered in 2nd 18km Distance covered in 3rd 0km Distance covered in 4th 0km Distance covered in 5th 0km Distance covered in reverse okm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted February 22, 2012 The clutch rod is way too short, adjust that out to 28mm, LOCK THE 10mm NUT and then calibrate the system. If you had the engine running when you took those figures then the rod is too long and you may be in need of a clutch replacement. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sphinx 7 Report post Posted February 22, 2012 when you took tho fure hen eod is o long and you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlrogers 0 Report post Posted February 24, 2012 Thanks Smaky - I'll try that. When the problem first began I was able to start the car and drive home but could only use 1st and 2nd. Once in the garage she really played up as described above Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted February 26, 2012 Whereabouts are you? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlrogers 0 Report post Posted February 28, 2012 Ahhh yes, sorry...I forgot to put that in profile. I'm in New Zealand (just a little way south of Portsmouth and across a wee stretch of water called the Atlantic/Pacific) but always happy to have visitors (especially alfalogically literate visitors). But seriously, I haven't done any more yet - I think I'll eliminate the possibility of EV3 or EV4 being the issue then pull the gearbox if I have to. If I remove the actuator first, what should I slide down the hole where the pinchbolt is to keep the sensor bits and pieces in place? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted February 28, 2012 A 1/2 inch drive extension. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlrogers 0 Report post Posted March 5, 2012 Thanks - pretty much ruled out solenoids (unless my donor selespeed unit has the same dud one). Pulling actuator this week some time...once it is off are there any tests I can do manually to determine whether actuator is faulty, or clutch or gearbox - for instance manually select gears etc??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted March 5, 2012 Have you had any throttle pedal fault codes? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlrogers 0 Report post Posted March 6, 2012 No, nothing like that Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted March 6, 2012 Hmmm, if I was there I would be poking the boroscope into the bell housing to look at the clutch components, but this is now beginning to sound like it's an age old problem with the gearbox, that being a snapped off selector loop, which will mean a new gearbox. But that's not gospel yet. I would first replace the sensor on the back of the actuator at this point. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlrogers 0 Report post Posted March 7, 2012 Crikey, I'll keep my fingers crossed that it's not that... I had a play with that sensor and took the screws out and manually turned the sensor body while a mate watched the dash - it displayed the different gears ok so I made the assumption that the sensor was doing it's job - I will swap it over though just to make sure - cheers for that Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlrogers 0 Report post Posted March 10, 2012 I dare not get my hopes up but I have to ask...I've taken the actuator off - I was expecting a hard time getting the pinch bolt undone but it was not even finger tight. Could that have a bearing on not being able to select any gears. I'm thinking the bolt does actually go into the selector shaft so there must have been some ability to move it??? This is what I know... 1.I can observe the clutch selector rod moving the clutch arm when a mate tries to select a gear 2.The solenoids seem ok - I can hear them clicking etc when running the tests on FES 3.The car has done 150000km 4.I can select gears manually with a spanner carefully on the selector shaft This is what I don't know... 1.Whether the clutch is working (even though arm is moving) 2.I don't know for certain that the sensors are OK (ohms readings were about right) I don't know whether to open the actuator up and check for bits of metal or whatever floating around in there. What do you think??? Thanks Smaky Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted March 10, 2012 Don't open the actuator, but on the front where the high pressure line was attatched is a 22mm union and behind that is a spring loaded filteryou could take that out and back flushit with Isoproponol, The pinch bolt being loose will cause an issue, there is even a test for its tightness in FES. if it's loose it allows the arm to jump around on the shaft and this can give false readings through the sensors so it either skips the gear or dumps to N. Sorry I wont answer any more today, I'm just off to do a 20V clutch, ARB and JTS cambelt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlrogers 0 Report post Posted March 10, 2012 Hey thanks for that. I'll get onto that tomorrow then I guess I'll give everything a bit of a wipe down then put it back together for a test. I guess I'll have to do a calibration...that'll be a first for me. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted March 10, 2012 Hey thanks for that. I'll get onto that tomorrow then I guess I'll give everything a bit of a wipe down then put it back together for a test. I guess I'll have to do a calibration...that'll be a first for me. Cheers Yep, you sure will, but first set the clutch rod, then calibrate, check the rod length again and if it goes out of limits set it again and repeat, if it's out again then contemplate a clutch sensor change (unlikely) or the more likely clutch change. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlrogers 0 Report post Posted March 11, 2012 I got "plunger adjustment error" when I did the calibration routine - I guess that's the clutch rod and that means do what you just said lol. I see plenty of posts on how to do that so I'll just get to it and let you know what happened. How did the cam belt and other jobs go today? BTW I did the pinch bolt test with FES once I had everything back together and got "Status 0c" so I hope that means no worries there. OK Now I am stumped. Put everything back, adjusted rod to 28mm did the clutch bleed routine and the actuator one too then when trying the final calibration got an error saying something like no 'suitable conditions' so it won't do it. Starting to frustrate a bit now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted March 11, 2012 Cambelt went smoothly as they always do, but the clutch is halfway, now waiting for a new flywheel to arrive, DMF worn out and leaking grease. The reason for the cambelt....Pulley was fitted 180' out by reputable indie and ossilation caused this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlrogers 0 Report post Posted March 11, 2012 Wicked! The tensioner on our 147 broke off its mount a while back - dunno how the belt didn't come off or slip a couple of notches. I drove around for a fair while not knowing what the noise was. Mechanic couldn't believe my luck - I was being looked after Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted March 11, 2012 That's not the idler or tensioner, that is the Balance belt drive pulley from the crank, how this engine suffered no other damage is beyond me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dlrogers 0 Report post Posted April 2, 2012 Thanks for all the advice everyone - it appears that the whole trouble was indeed the loose pinchbolt. After the end of service routine I was able to drive around the carpark. Still to do a road test but all looking hopeful - God is good! UPDATING...car drove well and all systems fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
