classic

Had this fault for a long time. So after trying every trick in the book I bought another ecu/acu. Now I've got these two faults; Not sure if I've gotten another faulty unit? Tried disconnecting battery and unit without it dissapearing. Any suggestions? Sent fra min SM-G900F via Tapatalk

Anyone?

I've got this airbag fault code. I earlier had a fault on the contact under the passenger seat, but can't remember if the fault code was the same. This time however the contact under the passenger seat is fine. I've head there are similar contacts in the boot, can the fault be a bad connection there, or should I try something else?

Thanks for the help btw! Sent fra min SM-G900F via Tapatalk

Nevermind, The Quaife is in!!!

Got it in two, but seems like all of the gears will need to come out to remove the diff. Still, this time the pins won't go anywhere Sent fra min SM-G900F via Tapatalk

Will I need to remove the selector fork before splitting it this way? Sent fra min SM-G900F via Tapatalk

I'm lost aswell. The small pins inside are all over my work bench. Guess I'll try your method on my other spare box then... Guess this is what I wasn't supposed to loose...

Nevermind, managed to seperated it. If anyone wonders, the gears stay in the non-bellhousing part. Where can I buy diff bearings? Sent fra min SM-G900F via Tapatalk

Hi. I'm trying to split a gearbox off a 147 2.0, but I can only get the two parts seperated by a few cm's. Does the gears stay in the bellhousing- or the other part of the gearbox and is there any tricks to separate them completely? Do I need to remove these bolts?

13 wrench to remove battery tray. Umbrako needed for removing actuator unit, needs to be flexible due to tight space. Also needs kong Umbrako for undoing bolt that goes through selector shaft Sent fra min SM-G900F via Tapatalk

Ordered this; http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=175_190&products_id=7812 Thanks guys! Sent fra min SM-G900F via Tapatalk

Got it off eventually. Has anyone changed the o-rings before? Got a set of standard o-rings from my autodealer, but some of the ones in the actuator are a different colour (green) and seems harder and more rigid. Will my stock black o-rings fail due to high pressure although they're supposed to withstand oil/petroleum? Sent fra min SM-G900F via Tapatalk

Found this picture, can soneone confirm that bolts 12 and 13 is the only onles holding the unit down besides bolt 7 going trough the selector pin?

I'm doing the same, my plan is to break down the actuator unit to parts and change all tps style sensors and o-rings on all five of the actuators. Accumulator was changed recently, if not that would also be on the to-do-list

Actuator is coming off due to service, but in the darkness of my enginebay, i was only able to see one allen bolt holding it down. Does anybody have pictures with details on the other bolts? Couldn't feel more bolts either, but there's got to be at least 3-5 others

Undid the bolts and refitted with washers without any bolts snapping. Unfotunately i broke my rockercover so now I have another issue to focus on Sent fra min SM-G900F via Tapatalk

After changing the headgasket I torqued down the head with NEW bolts, but forgot to put in the head bolt washers from the old bolts (new ones came without) All bolts got torqued to spec without bottoming out in the block, but now I'm in doubts about what to do. Engine hasn't been started up yet, should I: 1: Leave it as it is (no washers) 2: Remove, fit washers and re-use the bolts (will they handle another torquedown?) or (and this is what I'm hoping to avoid) 3: Bin the new bolts, order another set (eat the bill) and install them correctly with washers Help apreciated

I'd say upgrade to full version of MES, clean or replace all three potmeters, and run final calibration Sent fra min SM-G900F via Tapatalk

These two keep popping up on my '01 Alfa 147 Selespeed From what I've found googling the codes, it can either be a lambda issue, or some off timing on the cambelt. So by adding a pic, I'd hope someone could enlighten me as to witch of the two it is

Is there any way to inspect the clutch visually without removing the gearbox? A removable cover or something?

Car has traveled 145.000, but not sure if the clutch has ever been changed. Slight fluidloss at times, but topped up now and not lost any this time

Haha, so you don't agree that downshifting ideally should be flipping the lever forwards as on a proper sequential box? Is there anyway of temporarily adjusting to clutchrod to compansate a worn clutch'? Perhaps setting it to a low 27.xxx mm? Don't know the milage of the clutch, and had hoped it'd atleast last until the temperature rises enough to have a peak

Why? Is there any lever-position that uses input from more than one microswitch? Come to think of it, just flipping the whole unit 180* would make me happy

Not saying it's exactly the same, but close. At least it was at a high 27.xxxx, wich I thought made the smothest shifting. l'm based in Oslo, Norway.