leongsoon

Thanks and another quick question Smaky! The KKL cable I'm gonna use to modify for ELM1 or KL1 isn't here yet, slooooow postage. I forgot in which module I did it; but I have managed to detect and clear P1760 Brake Switch yesterday with just a stock unmodified ELM327 interface. It's all fuzzy now but I might have successfully connected to the ABS module without KL1 / ELM1 after ignoring the prompt for the green adaptor from FES, either that or P1760 was detected within the Engine or Selespeed ECU modules. Do you reckon I can clear the error code again this way after unplugging and reconnecting the brake switch to make it work? Or would I need to clear more error codes specifically in the ABS module? Thank goodness for your advice; if not I would have had to limp the car to the workshop about 30km away in 2nd gear amidst town traffic, if it could even make it that far

Hi Smaky! Another week and another problem, this is really becoming a routine My car's been fine for days since I reset the Selespeed error codes and got the shifter working again. All of a sudden today it displayed the array of EBD, ABS, VDC error with the Selespeed warning light and gear number flashing. I can only change gear within the first few seconds of the car starting. Any attempt to change gears will throw it back to N. The ABS pump doesn't stop even after I've shut the car down and pulled the key off. I've tried removing and checking all relays in front of the battery as well as all fuses at the negative. Also tried removing two relays under the steering. ABS pump still wouldn't stop so I had to disconnect the BOSCH connector for now. Battery and alternator seems to be fine as I've restarted it numerous times with no issue. I still don't have a cable I can use to access the ABS and Airbag; it's on its way, but from FES I've so far gotten "P1752 Pump Relay" and "P1760 Brake Switch"

Alright! I bought a VAGCOM cable off eBay, but was worried it might be faulty after the long wait for it to arrive, so I went ahead and found a slightly pricier ELM327 locally! It arrived today and after some tinkering I managed to clear the Selespeed error codes, I didn't even need to modify the ELM327 interface. Car is back in action now! Thanks Smaky!

5 156s!! I know there can be no such thing as too many Italians, but why so many 156s?

If it's £30+ I would quite gladly take it, however, I was quoted £35 for the part and another £37 for postage; that's what put me off

Hi guys! Does anyone know where I can get a 156 GTA intake pipe (Part number 60677409) online? I've tried searching every now and then buy have never come across any, not even on eBay. Thanks!

I don't like cleaning cars; I just don't like em dirty either so I gotta clean it! Dayummm, are all those 156s yours Smaky? O_O That's quite a fleet!

The door switch panels, gear tunnel cover and rear aircon surrounds, seat levers on my 156 has been painted with rubber paint roughly 3 years before I bought it. When I got the car it has started peeling a bit in some places. While I've left the other parts alone, I've stripped the door switch panels, sprayed some adhesion primer on it and coated them sparkling black paint. It looks almost metallic and has a shimmering texture to it, very scratch resistant too! The rubbery paint I think peels too easily.

Alright, guess I better get the cable then! Only thing putting me off it for so long is cause I'm confused which one to get. Please help me take a look and see if any of these will do Smaky: 1. http://preview.tinyurl.com/6qgswyy 2. http://www.mudah.my/Elm327+usb+v1+2-14636691.htm 3. http://www.mudah.my/OBD2+OBDII+ELM327+B ... 963948.htm From FiatECUScan's website I'm aware the last 2 might need some modifications to get around the CAN error. Or is there anything you'll recommend? Thanks a lot for the time Smaky, appreciate it

Alright, I did something stupid; I disconnected the shifter and cleaned the contacts. Then I reconnected them and realised I have no cable or software to clear the error codes. Is there anyway I can clear the error codes without cable and software? The car will start but not accept any input from the shifter now and CITY is displayed with the gear indicator, can't turn that off either

Hi guys! Another week, another selespeed question, let's hope this doesn't become a normality shall we 2 weeks back, while I was driving, the car stopped changing gears when I push the gearstick up or down. Fortunately the steering controls still work, so I could still drive the car properly. When I pulled over, I managed to use the stick to bring the car into N and R, all gear selection with the stick worked properly after that. Today, after reversing the car out of my driveway, I couldn't get to any other gear using the stick; no forward gears and not even N. I had to turn the ignition off and restart the car before the stick will operate normally again. Is there any servicing of the gearstick switch I can do to fix this problem, or is this a software problem?

I think he meant the car WAS a Selespeed, but he bought it as a shell minus the engine and gearbox, so he needs to transplant into it the engine and gearbox from a manual 156 donor.

Just an update on the issue Smaky! Left my car at the Alfa Romeo workshop for a day, they just changed a gear selector sensor at the actuator and recalibrated it a bit for 50 pounds. Car has been working fine since, all gears engage with no drama, even 2nd to 3rd works nicely at low revs now! Phew! I hope the faulty selector sensor was what's causing the random beeping too, so with the sensor replaced I can say goodbye to the beeping. Thanks a lot Smaky!

I've been getting home late and haven't gotten around to swapping the brass sensor yet. Today, during a slow drive in town it started to miss 2nd and went straight to 3rd instead. Downshifting from 3rd brings me back to 3rd, R still working but 4th misses sometimes too. Went home, checked the fluid level, cleaned the 20pin connector and fuses again. Selespeed pump primes every 4mins 20secs when I left the key at MAR. Now it wouldn't get into 1st unless I downshift from 2nd while running. With the engine off, it will sometimes miss 1st and 3rd. Is this all caused by the synchro ring too? I'll be out of town again tomorrow for work, hope I can get back early and check the brass sensor

Thank you! This will ensure I don't end up with the wrong part ^^

That's what I was worried about! Thanks for clearing that up Smaky! The missing ash tray is hardly noticable in the front seats, but very obvious from the back row, not that I have many passengers at all, but still I'd like to cover the ugly crevice there. Maybe I'll make a GTA-style drilled metal plate for that area if I can't get an ash tray

The A3's front bumper look surprisingly light compared to the side and rear, seems as if it previously had some chunky bumper up front. Looks good, just rip the skirts and slap an original bumper back, easily rectified. The GTA on the other hand isn't so fortunate

Not really a tech question, but the ash tray in my 156 is missing when I got the car. The dashboard is the silver one with Infocentre. I was wondering if the ash tray is any different for LHD and RHD cars? I've seen some popping up online but am worried it would not fit. Thanks!

After a few days' use I noticed that the skipping of 3rd gear happens only when I shift at low revs; if I do it at 5k RPM and above it upshifts to 3rd fine and fast. Still no problem getting to 3rd from 4th. I was wondering if it could be a faulty sensor somewhere? Gearbox oil change is not due yet, but there's also an occasional black drip from where the gearbox meets the engine every few days, so will changing the oil to a fully synthetic one be of any help?

Another question Smaky! Sorry for the bother! About 2 months back the gearbox seems to be slow to change from 2nd to 3rd at times, then it worked fine the rest of the time, but for the whole of this morning it takes almost a full second to get from 2nd to 3rd. All the other up and down changes work fine. Will opening the gearbox end and cleaning the swarf cure this?

I've got good news and bad news!! The good news; pump is not leaking and motor is going strong! The assembly only runs for about 6 seconds to prime fully now! New seals and brushes does wonders! For the first few days the motor only primes when I turn the key to MAR, but it started running again whenever I open the driver's door starting this morning, no idea why, probably no big deal either The bad news? The beeping still comes around, so the pump and motor are not the culprit. Gonna check the relays and connections again. Is it possible that the accumulator is on it's way out again? The actuator and accumulator are pretty clean and dry last I checked.

You're right, wouldn't enjoy having to take it apart again later! The Magneti Marelli brushes are 7.5x8 instead of 6x8 I guess, so just got a pair of 8x8x16 just now. Also noticed dirty ATF3 in the enclosed area where the armature couples with the pump shaft, no oil has gotten into motor yet, so I bought a new oil seal and o-ring for that end of the pump too, other than that all the oil and internals are crisp and clean. Already cleaned all the nooks and crannies in the motor so they should be problem free for long after this By the way, is there any need to leave any oil in where the pump and motor couple, or will assembling them back dry be fine?

...like the whole car ^^

I've gotten a set of 8x6x20mm brushes. Selespeed hasn't beeped in last 3 days. When I got the pump out I was surprised to see a Magneti Marelli instead of a Denso. I'm not quite sure but I think the brushes are smaller, and 25mm might have been too long. The brushes are still about 10mm long on each side but there was an awful lot of carbon dust which I cleared. Should I still go ahead and replace the brushes?

Thanks for the advice Smaky! 1. Cleaned the relay and contacts about 2 months back, but worth trying again due to the wet climate here. 2. This I suspect too. Is it necessary to replace the whole pump or can I just follow your guide and replace the brushes? I read it's 8 x 6 x 25mm but is there a part number for it? 3. I just realised that prodding the throttle doesn't make the beeping go away, it's moving the car that does. I'll try to locate and check the plugs too, but then I gotta send my car to the workshop to reset the codes. Thanks again