radek-j

I think the hardest thing for o-rings to withstand is temperature. On alfaowner forum people suggest buying o-rings made of Viton. http://www.marcorubber.com/material_chart.htm Look for Viton (FKM) and compare it with f.e. NBR.

I'm puzzled Guess it has something to do with the clutch - maybe cylinder or ev0 are faulty or leaking? I've recently replaced the whole clutch cylinder assembly because I had some ss oil spills on the gearbox, below the clutch cylinder. Right now there are no spills (at least I haven't noticed any). I'm going to observe the car for couple of days, maybe I'll find some ss oil leaks.

Could you check for me how often your pump primes? Just start the engine and listen to the pump. It's important that the engine will be running during the test. In my car pump primes every ~3 minutes when the engine is off and every 8s when engine is running on idle.

There are 3 screws on top of the actuator + the one (11 on your picture) holding the selector shaft. You can unscrew it after removing the cap (10).

How often should the pump prime when car is on neutral and the engine is on idle? In my 156 it primes every 8s, I wonder if it's normal.

Thanks a lot Smaky, you've saved me from dismantling second side airbag

That's a good news, but why did Alfa bother to shape the plug in the way which allows you to plug it in only one position?

Thanks Smaky, but I don't know the pinout of socket in the airbag. I shouldn't disassemble this plug

Hello guys, recently I was stripping down my leather seat in order to fix heating pads. In the heat of battle I disassembled the side airbag plug (the one that goes directly to side airbag - it's inside the seat). When I started to refitting everything back I've realized that I don't remember the order of cables in that plug. As you see in the photo, there are two cables going into the plug - the blue and brown. The question is: is this order correct?

Hello again. In Saturday I've finally managed to complete cluch bleed and EOL calibration routines I've used FiatEcuScan, as suggested by Smaky. When I've tried to do EOL calibration for the first time it complained that "conditions are not suitable" or something like that. So I've warmed the engine a little bit more and finally it compleded without any errors. Thanks Smaky! By the sensor fork you mean the one inside the actuator? Cheers

If I start the clutch bleed routine I can hear something moving (I guess it's the clutch actuator). After short while, the pump kicks in (clutch actuator still moving). Then the gearbox control lights up, the beeping starts and the error is thrown. I don't really remember how things are with EOL routine, but I'll check it. When it comes to FiatEcuScan - well, I have only the free version which can't do calibration routines of selespeed ecu.

I'm also concerned with the clutch rod length. It changes after the shift - you can see it clearly on the graph. First it's around 28,45mm, after two shifts it changes to 28,3mm, and after three shifts it is 28,25mm. Is it normal?

In order to make sure that the accumulator is faulty I've done some logs of pressure in the system. The accumulator holds pressure so long that I haven't had enough patience to wait for the pump to start. I've made the logs three times. Moreover, I still cannot do the clutch bleed and EOL routines. They end with the same 0xc error. I'm really puzzled here, the accumulator suddenly started to hold the pressure. Maybe it's because of temperature? When I've done previous log it was around -15 outside. I also suspect the undercharged battery - the car isn't frequently used (once over two, three days).

Thanks for your concern Smaky. How long should the good accumulator maintain pressure?

Life with Selespeed isn't easy - my pump died when I was on the road. I towed Alfa back home, then opened the pump: the rotor winding was burned. I brought the rotor to the guy who fixes electric engines. He rewinded it and I replaced the bushes (the old ones were quite short). After that the pump was going, but it was running to slow. The problem was that I put the carbon bushes in it (those used for drills etc.) and their resistance was too high, lowering the pump power. After fitting copper bushes pump was going like a brand-new one I've put the promised pressure graph (made before pump died) in the attachment.

As I promised, I've checked the pressure drop in the system. The pump primes every second gearchange. I've also made logs of pressure drop with Alfa Diag, which I'll post later. Cheers

Thanks Smaky. The pump primes every 2nd or 3rd change - I don't remember correctly. Right now I'm at work, so I'll check it in the evening. But I have got some news - today in the morning, when I was going to work the gearbox light started to flash 2 to 3 minutes after I left home. I pulled over and checked the pump circuit (the pump didn't work) and found the problem: it was blown pump fuse (30A). Since I had spare one in the glovebox (just in case) I replaced it and the pump started to work, but the fuse had blown out shortly after. In order to get to work I've removed fan fuse (40A) and put it in the socket of pump fuse. That's done the job, hope I get home without any new surprises. So I guess that the problem is the pump. Today it had tough job pumping the fluid - in the morning it was -11 degrees outside.

First, I would like to say hello to everyone here, because this is my first post at this forum. I'm, writing because I've got problems with my 1999 156 Selespeed. It crunches during shifting down from 3rd to 2nd, sometimes from 4th to 3rd (but not as hard as the former). The crunching doesn't happen if I shift down (3->2) at 2000rpm, more or less (at lower speeds it happens all the time). Moreover car woes when taking off in the morning (cold engine), you need operate accelerator very gentle. After slight warm up it's back to normal. I've read lots of posts on alfaowner.com, which brought me to clutch rod adjustment and doing clutch bleed and EOL calibration routines (thanks Smaky!). I did them all - clutch bleed and EOL routines were hard to do, as they didn't want to finish properly - most of the time Alfa Diag threw out 0xC error (don't know what it is though). After numerous tried they finally completed with no errors (but I've just been lucky, clutch bleed still throws out 0xC error most of the time). The clutch rod adjustment procedure also proved to be tricky - after restoring right rod length (before it was 30mm!) and tightening the nut - the reading on Alfa Diag changes after each clutch engagement, oscillating around 28.0mm with amplitude of circa 0.2mm (I don't remember the exact value, but can check it). It should be rock stable, doesn't it? In the end the jerking is less violent then before, but the crunching remained. I'm concerned about synchros in the gearbox, but I'd like to check all cheaper things first. Maybe it's something wrong with clutch? PS. Today I took it for a drive and haven't experienced any crunching, even when shifting from 3rd to 2nd at 3200rpm. However, I haven't tried to downshift below 2000rpm, given my previous experience. Thanks in advance