peter2

may I ask you to circle the roll pin in the picture so that I can inspect it myself? thanks a lot! PS are we littering the original topic?

so, since i just have had it adjusted, should i be worried by the fact that my mechanic adjusted it without loosening the nut, and acting on the bolt only??? he moved it from 29.2 to 28.1 mm (real time FES reading), and, after the calibration procedure, the reading dropped to 27.8.

Hi all, I'm posting on behalf of a friend of mine, who, good for him, owns a stunning 147 GTA SS, which occasionally slips into N from 1st, both with car moving and at rest; after that it would not engage 1st any more, and he is forced to take off in 2nd. Sometimes it does not give any error on BC. When an error is detected and stored, it is the ""gear position/engage sensor". It is necessary to say that long ago he substituted the big multipole connector (N20?) with a waterproof, high-end, compliant to military prescriptions one. In order to temporary solve the problem he just needs to unplug and plug again the the connectors to those sensors, sometimes even just moving the wires a little works. Every 2-3000 km the problem is there again. is the problem in the sensors, the wiring or the gear? thanks

hi, isn't the 18mmm the reading with engine running? anyway, smaky, you highlighted LOCKED previously: based on the picture attached which is the locking bolt and which the regulation one?

thanks for the explanation when you say "faulty accumulator" you mean with a hole in the membrane? is it the only way for an accumulator to fail?

i had replaced the ev0 at 100k km (now the car has 170k km), while the accumulator has never been changed...so i supposed the latter would be the one to blame....damn! :Black Eye: almost 100 euros thrown away! may i ask why the timing of primes makes you so confident on blaming the ev0 seals?

with both engine running or off it primes every 1-2 mins. i wonder why you have such a hhuge difference between the two situations.

8s is WAY too often! the problem is that, as for my case, the fast drop of the pressure could be due to both a faulty accumulator or an internal leakage, or both! i will change mine anyway....170k km are enough, its time to retire!

thanks eivindcl, why on earth don't i receive emails on post replies?? Anyway, i read some old topics stating that exactly the same symptoms can be either caused by a faulty accumulator or a faulty seal on some ev....which way should i try first? maybe both? PS is Smaky still around?

no hints? BTW I'm having difficulties in finding a cheap (<60 euros) accumulator...is it normal?

Hi guys! I'm very happy because my ss has been running flawlessly for over a year now (however i have to admit that my miling has gone down a lot though). while checking for the status of the clutch rod (i found it is 29.2 mm, so soon i will reset it), i found that the time between two pump primes is less than two minutes (no operation in the meanwhile obviously): isn't it too short? Now the question: is it the accumulator or something else? then what could it be? my accumulator has 170k Km... thanks a lot!

why don't you swap them anyway?

smaky can i answer? ok thanks! the relay is fixed to the same support the main connector of the sele actuator is fixed: it's between the battery and the engine. as i wrote above, you can try to flip it with the the one located below the steering wheel (if your windows don't work anymore but your sele does it is the murderer)

problem fixed! it was the relay: i bought a new one from local dealer (15 euros). given it's not the same brand as the original one, i preferred to use it for the windows, and stick it under the steering wheel. I opened the fault one, and found out that it's malfunctioning is very likely to be caused by a dirty contact: i cleaned it and saved it for the next relay fault, as there are several in the car that are prone to die. i strongly reccomend to try cleaning it before buying a new one. thanks all.

smaky i'm italian! i'm the author of the "stuck in fifth" topic...or maybe you were kidding.. anyway, today 200 kms (though mainly highway, so not many gear changes) and not even one missed gear change. and this is really helping me stopping smoking as i can't open windows... smaky, i should consider myself lucky, as this time i witnessed a wrong diagnosis of yours!!! this is very rare!!! joking, of course...thanks a lot! PS as you really scared me, i'm going to change the brushes in my pump as soon as i can afford a 2-3 days car stop.

first of all MERRY Christmas! then: i opened the thing below the steering wheel, and found a relay identical to the one between the battery and the engine (the latter is the sele pump relay, isn't it?); swapped them, went for a ride, and everything related to the gears seems fine!! i thought: it must have been that!! the proof to support my happiness is that windows don't go down anymore, so the relay i used is very likely to be window-related! what do you think smacky? (by the way, i didn't say i jolted the car, i said i jolted the relay and the connector beneath it.) PS now it's time to fill up our stomachs!!

Hi all, it's been a couple of days that my selespeed would refuse to do anything from now and then, and keep going with the gear it was in (no materr which it was). this happens more often after a cold start. i hooked FES and monitored the pressure. i noticed that it happens when the pressure is lower than a certain amount and the pump doesn't prime, even if the relay signal is on. if i move the relay and the multipin connector beneath it, the pump starts. i found the error "P1769 Pump relay stuck". i took the relay off, cleaned the contacts, but seems it's doing it again. i read that this relay is the same as the one used for the high speed fan operation. where is the latter located? can i try swapping them? can i be reasonably sure it's a problem restricted to the pump relay? thanks a lot.

ok

hi all, just an update: everything is fine so far. gear changes are incredibly smooth. jut a couple of questions: 1) I seem to remember there have been a few issues arising only when in city mode, but as far as i understood they were solved in a new release of sele ecu (post 2001) 2) do you know anything about selespeed ecu firmware update? alfa tech claim that their examiner prompted them to update software on several selespeed cars.

HERE I AM!!!! EVERYTHING IS FINE NOW!!!! this morning i went to the mechanic with my laptop to calibrate the selespeed, he had called me saying that all the gears engaged well except for fifth and reverse....which refused to engage. you can imagine me swearing... i arrived there, plugged the obd, adjust the rod (it was 24.6 mm, now it's 28.1mm), clutch drain, eol calibration and everything is great now!!! you can't even imagine how happy i am (i know, i know, it's only a car...). the mechanic wanted 300 euros for the work + 20 euros for gear oil, the washer lock, and the grease (??) (+170 euros that i spent for the clutch). i'm happy with it. i noticed one thing: the system is now able to maintain the pressure for much longer than before: after resting 2 hours, opening the driver door didn't cause the pump to prime...i had noticed this behaviour also last year after having changed the ev0. it stayed so for a couple of weeks then it went back to normal pressure falling rate. i suspect that a bit too much air went into the accumulator...it it plausible? anyway i would like to thank smaky for his support!! i really owe you a bottle of wine mate!!!

ok, i guess there is something i'm not aware of...

clutch arrived, machanic said he is rebuilding the whole car. smaky, i seem to remember a post of yours (on ao forum) on the procedure to correctly fill the selespeed actuator... can you link it, please? thanks

i'll check it. thanks! are we talking about these, close up?

looks to me very similar to this