Smaky

HAve you run it through a standard emmisions test yet? But as you can see the post cats are now trimming the fuel as they should be and therefore your power should be up now.

Remove the cambelt top cover, remove the 13mm spacer within the cambelt area that goes to the bracket on top of the rocker cover, the rest is pretty self explaitory (the 13mm nut for the earth group, the ring of M6 allens and the m5 allens on the top cover and coil packs), but also note that oil WILL ALWAYS run down the front of the head next to the steering pump and you'll need some rag there to catch it....no matter how careful you are. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD 6mm ALLEN BIT AS THE BOLTS ROUND OUT EASILY.

I'd recommend the endplate of the gearbox be removed and the area checked for debris and cleaned out, about .5l of oil will come out during this so make sure you top it up after, it's also a good idea to check the drain plug too, any massive chunks on that and it's time to take the gearbox off again.

It's exactly that, but they were NEVER factory fitted, obviously done by someone who doesn't know the correct way to top it up and constantly overfilled it.

"until the battery died" Personally I think that is the biggest clue.

STart by cleaning all plug connectors related to the Gearbox and engine ECU

or bothered...

Well it's been out of production for 10 years so it had to happen soon.

2.2JTS?

A healthy graph will take at least 10 minutes to drop from 55Bar to 44Bar, it will never go over 55Bar when recharging an you should be able to make 3 selections before the pump primes again. Also with a faulty accumulator you'll have a "Pump relay stuck" code and a double beep every 30 seconds. If you don't have these additional symptoms then I'd suspect the seals on the EV0 valve on the actuator need replacing. This is all assuming that there is sufficient fluid in the system.

Yes, First f all, the accumulator needs to be replaced that's why the pressure graph is doing that... And secondly the clutch rod length needs to be set (28mm - 28.5mm), then the gearbox needs to run the EOL calibration.... From what you described at the start this is all that was needed, I doubt there was anything wrong with the original box.

Hi and welcome, the '73 GTV is a great looking car, if he can remember the reg then maybe I can track it down through my contacts.

Anything is possible, but no IMO it's not easier, the #3 Philips screws can be a right pig and you need to clean the gear spindle anyway so it has to come off completely

No, the Bose loom is only fitted to cars to order and it runs an interruption type loom for the speakers as well as a piggy back for power and signal.

Yes it is. ....and the transverse arm bolts.

Failure of these racks is so rare that the companies that claim to repair them only ever replace the track rods, ball joints, clean them up and spray them, so I think you're heading up the wrong path here.

Alternators are easier to get, regulators tend to come from Poland and are awkward to source as there were so many variants of alternators used.

I wouldn't drill them,

It is if you have a rework station.

That can occur when the wheels are turned with the engine off, as returning fluid fro the rack has nowhere to go

Replace the rev counter.

JTD is now 3 years and V6 is a push at 5 years.

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Remove the lower and front engine mounts and swing the engine forwards, then drop the alternator out the bottom, it's tight but doable and quicker than removing the intake.

Well bugger me, I'm going to look into this wiring phenomenon, never heard of that and fooked if I'd have found it.