Smaky

PMSL.

And red. And put one on a diesel and I shall mock you till the end of time.

Easy day out then lol.

In 22 years of th TS engine I've never seen or heard of one stuck closed, but I have seen people use radweld in the engine and this has led to the cooling ports becoming blocked and this gives you the symptom of a blocked thermostat as does the fins rotting off the radiator, meaning it's not leaking but it's not cooling either.

I'll get one, but I dont think it will solve this.

Over-rated, overpriced and suprisingly poor design on the rear brakes, rear springs snap easier than tooth picks, front shocks have more leaks than Wales and that nasty compact driving area.

Oh the GTV 6 where the enginewas first used it was the easiest filter to change, rotate the engine90 degrees and it becomes a female genital part.

When I calibrated mine I didn't start up in 2nd gear and drive but everything was right after You don't just start it in second, you have to run the routine on diag and then follow the instruciots which will lead you to do the above, after it has been done gearchanges will be noticably smoother and quicker.

They never stick closed on TS's

viewtopic.php?f=39&t=553

Any news?

Thermostst would only make it run cool.

It pretty much stands for both of you. Also the Bosch kit is rubbish on Seles, it's software was copied from the examiner and that is crap for this too. If your not too far away I can get over and look it over to see what's up with them

Swap the 2 sensors on top around, recalibrate and see what it's like then, if no change then Iit may be a worn clutch bearing.

They must have built it before!

OK, so have you run the clutch self calibration routine on diag? That's the one where you start off in 2nd gear to 3000rpm then stop turn off the engine and restart it.

OK the range sensor is the one on the back of the actuator, for the sake of testing you could swap this sensor for one of the 2 on top and try the gearchanging again, Also, can you select all gears when the engine is not running?

Check the selespeed fluid level, the clutch rod length and recalibrate the system. Are there any strange noises though that have started recently in the engine bay?

To start with, check (or have checked) the clutch rod length and calibrate the system.

Do you want one?

No problem, The only TS that porting worked on was the CF1 2.0 in the 155/145/146 which had the alloy inlet manifold, opening up the outlet on the manifold to match the stub manifold gained about 3 Bhp without anything else, but apart from that you have to start replacing Cams, pistons, rods, head gasket, throttle body, resonator box for V6 duct and so on...

Thought this would suit you better.

Strut = wishbone?

The skim I agree with, rhe rest is a waste of time, the ports are rough so that airflow is stirred up mixing the fuel and air better on the way into the cylinder so that an improved burn is possible, polish the ports nd you end up with laminate airflow and uneven burn creating hot spots on the piston crowns which weaken them and either hole them or worse melt them.

Magic!