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Philjay50

Jts Engine Rebuild

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I decided ages ago to rebuild my JTS engine but never got around to it, it goes well and I have no issues except it uses oil.

I have given a lot of thought to replacing the car but it would have to be a diesel. I have looked at GT's but I feel its too close to the 156 for me to feel like its a real change so I have been looking at 159's but troubles with the M32 gearboxes and possible rust have put me off despite it being the best looking saloon car on the road. Because my annual mileage is not very high I have now decided again to rebuild the JTS motor.

So my simple question is, I have read that the oil control on the JTS is a single ring and a 3 ring type should be fitted, is the bottom groove wide enough to take the 3 ring option?

Thanks

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Yes from my experience the oil usage is down to the single oil ring AR use. Once you've honed the bore, decoked the head and replaced the valve seals you should see very little oil use.

Edited by Biffa

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Thanks, I read that some time back and I have just gone thru it again, good read. I am hoping that just a shell change will suffice as well as rings. I also have an overhauled set of injectors I would like to install.

Some interesting comments on the forum, I have owned several TS version cars and although I think I prefer it I like the jts, in town and slow traffic it is far more user friendly.

Oh, by the way, did you remove the inlet manifold after you had done the job, was it difficult, it's the one thing that's holding me up to be honest.

Again thanks.

Edited by Philjay50

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I too prefer the JTS for power and low down drivability, the oil usage is the downside, and yes it is down to the oil conrrol ringon the piston and also the shorter height that the rings are fitted onto the piston, Honing shouldn't be needed as every JTS I've opened has still had the original hone visible so just a deglaze is needed, replacing the injectors is advisable along with the big ends, ensuring the cams aren't worn is a must too as these really do suffer in the JTS and are often overlooked, the rest of the heads components seem to fare well so generally don't need replacing. Then use a mineral 10-40 to break it back in for 1000 miles then flush and go for 10-60 fully synth, this should ensure the best oil usage and lower emisions.

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I too prefer the JTS for power and low down drivability, the oil usage is the downside, and yes it is down to the oil conrrol ringon the piston and also the shorter height that the rings are fitted onto the piston, Honing shouldn't be needed as every JTS I've opened has still had the original hone visible so just a deglaze is needed, replacing the injectors is advisable along with the big ends, ensuring the cams aren't worn is a must too as these really do suffer in the JTS and are often overlooked, the rest of the heads components seem to fare well so generally don't need replacing. Then use a mineral 10-40 to break it back in for 1000 miles then flush and go for 10-60 fully synth, this should ensure the best oil usage and lower emisions.

Thanks for your comments and benefit of your experience, I am off to Europe for a while but plan to do this on my return as I now intend to hang on to it for a while longer. I have changed the cams for a pair of C&B fast road, but the standard ones were in good nick. As I have the injectors I figure I may as well use them. I wish I had done the job before my trip, but I said that last year. 😬

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Alex, i've found that with the JTS prior to my thread lock mis-hap that 10-40 semi synth gets no oil usage and emmisions are bang on if the oil rings are changed (honeing i meant glaze busting but i think you knew that lol). I'd rather frequent oil changes and 10-40, as i feel the only reason AR went to 10-60 on the JTS was due to its oil usage... I'd would also say that if you have a tired TS engine that using oil 10-60 might be an option...

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OK, things are now serious, I took the cam covers off to discover that two of the cam buckets have failed on the inlet cam and knackered it, C&B cam down the drain. Today I took the sump off to discover that cylinders two and three have experience shell movement, one and four seem OK although well worn. I pulled the centre mains cap and that looked OK. The journals looked fairly good and I guess I may be able to dress them, but do you think I will get away with new shells?

How this car got to and back from France is beyond me, no horrid noises or indication of low oil pressure, amazing.

Your thoughts please.

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