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Removing Selespeed Gear Lever

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Tried to remove this, but the two 10mm bolts just keeps on turning, (se attatched photo)

as if there were nuts on underneath or something.

 

 

20130114_202544_zpsb44e28ce.jpg

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Its coming off because I suspect a faulty microswitch since I can't engage reverse.

(no faultcodes)

 

While there, I also plan to swap the wires so that pushing the lever forwards will downshift and vice versa.

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I use the newest MES,

registered and all

 

Is there anyway to access these nuts without dismantelig the whole car?

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Hi.

 

Earlier to day I did,

and it registered that I'd tried to engage reverse.

 

After running selfcalibration the second time, it now shifts as normal again.

 

Still want to remove lever to swap up- and downshifting though

Edited by classic

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If you haven't had an issue with it I wouldn't bother, I've also NEVER seen one of those fail, if it is showing you the right selection when you make it then it is fine, if it is held in the selection too long then you will get multiple switch lever faults but they are self induced and will clear. If you can dscribe any other problems which occured then maybe I can help out.

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Using MES check the clutch rod length, ignition on, not running it shoud be 28 - 28.5mm, outside of that it will have issues selecting gears as it would be the same as not pressing the pedal enough.

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Clutch rod lenth was adjusted to 27.9999 this summer, and was still the same when I checked yesterday

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Its coming off because I suspect a faulty microswitch since I can't engage reverse.

(no faultcodes)

 

While there, I also plan to swap the wires so that pushing the lever forwards will downshift and vice versa.

 

That is a BAD idea.

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Clutch rod lenth was adjusted to 27.9999 this summer, and was still the same when I checked yesterday

 

I think a little more investigation into the clutches condition is needed as it's not often they keep the same measurement, even from day to day.

 

Out of interest whereabouts are you?

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Not saying it's exactly the same, but close.

At least it was at a high 27.xxxx,

wich I thought made the smothest shifting.

 

l'm based in Oslo, Norway.

 

 

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That is a BAD idea.

 

Why?

Is there any lever-position that uses input from more than one microswitch?

 

Come to think of it,

just flipping the whole unit 180* would make me happy

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Why?

Is there any lever-position that uses input from more than one microswitch?

 

 

Reverse.

 

Come to think of it,

just flipping the whole unit 180* would make me happy

 

It wont fit.

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Explains the crazy ideas.

 

Haha,

so you don't agree that downshifting ideally should be flipping the lever forwards as on a proper sequential box? :Smug:

 

Is there anyway of temporarily adjusting to clutchrod to compansate a worn clutch'?

Perhaps setting it to a low 27.xxx mm?

 

Don't know the milage of the clutch,

and had hoped it'd atleast last until the temperature rises enough to have a peak

Edited by classic

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If it is still the original clutch and the car has now past 100,000 Km then it's done well and probably is the clutch causing this issue as long as there is no fluid loss.

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Car has traveled 145.000, but not sure if the clutch has ever been changed.

 

Slight fluidloss at times, but topped up now and not lost any this time

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Is there any way to inspect the clutch visually without removing the gearbox?

 

A removable cover or something?

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If you have a Boroscope (remote visual aid), then there is a cover just up from the clutch arm which you can gain access through to see the release bearing, inside of the bell housing and face of the spring plate which you can check for wear or cracked fingers, the thickness of the pressure plate can be checked aswell, but with your milage I'd expect it to be on the limits at best.

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