Jtd Turbo Issue

[K9d 108]

Ever since I've had my 156 2.4 10v JTD it has had an issue when using full throttle in 3rd or 4th gear, after a few seconds the EML will illuminate if I then change up there will be no power. Generally it will happen in 3rd, if I hold the gear the power stays and then if I do a lazy change to 5th, letting the revs drop to tickover the power will return.

 

From my research into this I'm led to believe this is an issue with the variable vanes in the turbo not moving correctly.

 

I had a look at the actuator rod today, if I pull off the vacuum hose the rod moves towards the turbo by about 5mm, I then reconnected the hose and the rod moved away from the turbo by 5mm. I sprayed some penetrating fluid onto the rod and then using a screwdriver to apply force got it to move about 10mm more, there seemed to be a point of resistance then it moved freely. The rod would stay in that position until I disconnected the hose again and then it would return to "neutral" and move 5mm upon reconnecting the hose.

 

My questions are, when everything is correct

1: What is the default position of the rod at tick over.

2: Which way does it move as the revs rise/ more throttle is applied

3: Will continued efforts with a screwdriver improve things or make them worse

4: Is it possible to remove the turbo and free things up and if so how difficult a job is it.

 

As I'm currently driving 400 miles a week it seems a good idea to get my car fully sorted.

[Smaky 73]

1: Fully retracted

2: Outwards

3: No

4: Yes and without the kit to set it up properly,almost impossible.

[K9d 108]

Cheers.

 

Can you clarify the answer to 3 please, should I continue to try and free it up?

 

If not how can it be made to work correctly?

[K9d 108]

An update

 

Before driving home from work today I started the engine and then forced the rod to be fully retracted, after a slow drive, bad traffic, I got onto a dual carriageway and got to check how things were. On my first bit of full throttle 3rd gear uphill I got the EML, changing to 4th gave more power than normal in that situation then a quick change to 5th and normal power was restored, that was better than how it was before.

I then had to stop at a roundabout before another dual carriageway, this time the car was loads better revving more freely and no EML, normally I can hit 80mph before lifting off for the next roundabout, today before I realised it I was approaching 3 figures way before I would normally hit 80.

When I got home I left the engine running and popped the bonnet, the rod was fully retracted so I removed the vacuum hose and it returned to the full outwards position, when I reconnected the hose it moved 5mm paused for a few seconds and then moved another 10mm.

 

It seems that my efforts with a screwdriver have had an effect, would it be worth trying to spray some penetrating fluid up the rod towards the turbo ?

[Smaky 73]

I'll change 3 to Possibly then.

 

I don't see that a squirt of Plusgas wouldn't help.

[K9d 108]

Checked it again today before my journey home form work and it wasn't doing the full movement, so I helped it along and it definitely is better but from my understanding of things it should have an effect at low RPM and not high, which is how it feels.

As I see it at higher RPM the rod should move towards the turbo opening the vanes, which is its engine off no vacuum position, so why do I get the EML light ?

 

I guess a trip to you is in order so that you can read the error codes.

 

When I have the money I will buy new turbo hoses, in the mean time I will keep trying to free the rod/vanes when all that is done if I still have problems it will be diagnostic time.

[Smaky 73]

The light will be on as the MAP sensor will not be reading the correct pressure the ECU knows should be there at tht speed, so for a code I'd expect to see boost control in there.

[K9d 108]

OK, cheers.

 

Just need to sell enough stuff on Ebay to fund the turbo hoses and then take it from there.