orgigeorgie

Done some research but to no avail. If already covered please do let me know. Currently on my 2000 156 TS my rear main seal is leaking slowly and the clutch is original on 180,000km (112,000mi). I figured I may aswell change it and do the clutch too, along with the slave cylinder. Is there anything else I should change while the gearbox is out? I will be attempting this myself, and will have a hoist so wish me luck - seems very tricky. Any write ups? Whats the most suitable gearbox oil for this car? Regards, George

Nice thread. I really dug 166. If you'd like to try some other leather cleaning techniques try:leatherique, its pricey but does a fantastic job. Or golds glycerin soap, and apply with s wet brush. Its what I use and really soften the leather. Great work. Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 4

There is a guy on the ausalfa forum selling a set it mint condition. Might wanna contact him. Mostro is the username. Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 4

Yup that's cool, if you guys are confident with your tools then no worries. I have no experience with farecla so I can't comment. My experience with a rotary was so so, the correction it gave me was good and quick but the amount dust and risk it introduced wasn't worth it for me. On my personal car sure no worries, on clients cars its a diff story. Overall of you're already doing something, it works and you're happy stick with it. I find with the da you have slightly more freedom to use coarser pads than with a rotary but that could b simply because I'm not confident with a rotary tool. A hood tip, instead of spraying water a little bit of quick detailer goes a long way. G Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 4

Really on what car? Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 4 Beta

It takes a long time to learn how to use a rotary tool effectively on paint. It can build heat up very quickly in the pad and that'll transfer to the paint. you will most likely burn through the clear coat and cause damage. Alfas have quite a thin layer of clear coat (~80um when healthy) and its soft paint. Its called an angle grinder for a reason no matter the speed it rotates at. If you'd like to get into machine polishing invest in a DA rotary tool, this rotates but also oscillates. Almost impossible to fuck it up because as you put pressure the machine slows its rotation. Polishes are a very tricky thing to get right. In my experience don't get bogged down in which polish or cutting compound to use they are all designed to do the same - its how you approach them. When trying to remove swirls on alfa paint you need a medium polish on a fine grade finishing pad for a 1 step but with a DA tool, I wouldn't even try your machine. Did that help? I can provide more info if you'd like. In terms of the polish residue on the plastic, yeh not good. You can try with isopryl alcohol however you risk damaging the plastic. I use it and then buff it off immediately. Its great because it evaporates almost instantly. Good news is it does eventually come off, you can cover it up with stuff like black wow or any other plastic trim restorer. For future tape it off with painters tape. Masking tape will leave a residue. G Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk HD

Hahah cheers mate, I was trying to figure out who you were. Looked at your profile and all your mate's had pics of alfas...I was like Whoes this boss. Now I know. Bigdar thought appreciated. Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Hey guys, I've just set up a facebook page, for a sub 25 yr old I have no effin' idea how this works. hahaha if you could take 2 seconds out of your day to search for billy goat detailing and just offer a 'like' I'd b very grateful. Thanks guys!

So if you haven't read the guide on how to detail your alfa, have a read of that first. Now it's time to maintain it. There isn't a whole lot to it, just it requires some patience and persistence. You don't even need special tools and you can do it at DIY carwashes. Some detailers would scorn at this - BUT its in their best interest to. Yes the water probably isn't as soft as what we'd like, no the chemicals aren't as good and can be quite strong - but its cheap and easy and if your anything like me where its very hard to find a guy to do something properly you rather do it yourself. Results vary on how you do it, but you'll get better at it (don't be a larry loser and give up). Remember its just bloody paint - it is quite forgiving in the sense that if you swirl it...just remove them again (maybe). So lets begin. Weekly: (at home or at carwash is ok!) Rinse the car thoroughly. This will take of large loose dirt. Low pressure pre soak - suspend dirt particles. Degreaser - will remove brake dust and grime. (bottom half of car) Rinse. (optional - i do it, takes 2 min) High Pressure soap. Rinse. THATS IT!!!! (takes me a total of about 6-7min) Optional: Some carwashes offer a liquid wax, go for it. Last about 2 weeks. Don't dry the car unless you're comfortable with what you're doing. JUST go out and DRIVE! 6 Monthly: Same as WEEKLY. Wash the car. Dry the car. Grab your fav hard wax (ones that come from a tub) top up the wax. (be sure to feel the paint, if it s very rough you should maybe give it a clay/hand polish) You can top up as many times as you would like - 2 coats is good. Annually: Wash as per weekly. Dry the car Strip wax (use isopronal alcohol, avoid getting it on plastics) Hand polish entire car (about an hour of work) Reapply wax. Do your wheels. And you're sweet! This isn't a definitive guide, you can alter it however you like. Obviously the interior state is upto you when you do it, I do mine completely ever month (vac, and protect) and do the leather every few months, sometimes 3 sometimes 6. whatever trevor. If anyone has something they would like to ad, go for it. I've made it into a little pdf for everyone so you can have a visual representation. I'm not entirely happy with it, so if you could critique it that would be great. Is it clear? Easy to understand? Not enough info, too much info? too plain? etc etc etc. I have the pdf of this, so if you'd like that instead drop me a line. So guys, go out there and look after you cars! If you're in Victoria Australia, happy to do your car just mention this and we'll work something out.

Ahh I see, we have a similar thing in Australia during droughts called water tanks. 50,000L and so. To combat hard water don't use Carnuba. Its natural and soft so it'll 'wear'. I don't recommend this often simply because I want it all to myself but I use FK 1000. Great product and seriously cheap. Very very good at what it does. But any synthetic sealant should do a good job and applications often will make your life easier and it'll also protect the paint from marring. Good to see people asking questions.

What's a water butt? Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Water spots are pain the ass. Do you live near a quarry? If no you're safe. A water spot is the minerals suspended in the water hardening on the surface. This can happen: If you live near a quarry and there is large limestone concentration in the air. It has been dry and dusty for weeks. Doubt it in the UK. You live in an industrial area with lots of pollutants. You wash with hard water which has a high concentration of magnesium and calcium. The most likely is the last. Hardwater is a nuisance and very common at carwash places. But can b overcome with some protection. To get rid of waterspots there are a few methods. White vinigar is acidic but not enough to damage paint if washed off straight away. It neutralises the basic make up of the minerals. Clay bar. Safer and will work with most variations of water spots. Machine polish will remove a fine layer of clear including your waterspots. Be sure to protect afterwards!! Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Buffing is removing something with elbow grease. Polishing occurs BEFORE waxing. And you will need to buff it off as it doesn't just disapear (unless you work it to a point where is such a fine powder - you dont want that). Polishing just readies the paint for protective layer of wax. If you don't have a machine its ok, there are hand polishes with fillers that will cover up the swirls. If your black 156 is anything like my sisters black 147 - its a nightmare to keep clean. Also I should note for people with dark cars (although applies to everyone)- If you see dust on your car do not touch it! Rinse it off. Wiping dust off gives nasty swirl marks - just go look at your shiny tv cabinet or kitchen bench if you have one. Interesting car NorthernBastard is that for protection from stone chips, or a personal visual addition. G Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk HD

Ahh I see. You will need to remove all the wax before you begin polishing. Do you mind posting a pic of your car? I am not loyal to any polish as I still haven't found one that does wonders for me. Its all the same amount of work. I use Menzerna. SF500 is for cutting (very course) SF2500 Is a light cut (for swirls) SF4000 is a finishing polish for that shine. I will try Meguires 105 and 205 next as I have heard good things about them but are unavailable in Aus.

Hi mate, I think you are getting them mixed up. If I read correctly your bonnet is vinyl wrapped? Im sorry to inform you but your polisher wont do anything on vinyl wrap - especially if its matt. The polisher is simply a tool that takes off a layer of clear coat. I should have included this in the tutorial. There are other methods to clean your vinyl bonnet but don't polish it. And don't buff of WAX with a polisher either - its just as easy by hand and a lot less hassle. As k9d mentioned a polish is an abrasive that shaves a layer off the clear. Your vinyl has no clear so really you're just scratching it. Don't stress though - its possible to hide those marks temporarily via waxes with fillers and what not. The haze effect is indeed too thick and uneven layer of polish. If you spot in you'll minimize that effect. A possible remedy is to spray QD on the hazed spot and buff. G