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bazzbazz

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Posts posted by bazzbazz

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Ok, I had similar symptoms on a clients car sometime ago. It was the firewall junction where the wires for the Throttle pass through into the engine bay.

     

    Simply follow the wires from the throttle all the way along to the firewall, cleaning and tightening each connector as you go along.

     

    In this case it was the last connector just before the firewall that was the issue. See how you go.

     

    Baz

  2. Posted · Edited by bazzbazz · Report reply

    â—¾The pump runs upon opening the door and again when inserting the key prior to selecting N for start

     

    This is normal and the way it should be.

     

    As for everything else it sounds very much like you have "clutch Drag". This is where the clutch is not fully disengaging. When it happens it is usually noticed when the clutch is hot.

     

    It can also be caused by the "Pinch Bolt" coming loose. This is the actual bolt that connects the Selespeed actuator to the gear box selector.

     

    There are 4 steps to curing it in the following order, if one doesn't work move onto the next -

     

    1/ Full actuator and clutch calibration

    2/ Check Pinch Bolt is correctly tightened

    3/ replace the clutch sensor on the actuator followed by #1 again.

    4/ Replacement of clutch mechanism - Most likely there is a problem with the clutch bearing or the nylon bearing carrier or the clutch itself.

     

    If your lucky you'll just need #1 :Praying:

     

    Baz

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Smaky, you may be able to shine some light into my dim mind at the moment.

     

    I have countless times rectified "Passenger Curtain Airbag Squib" errors in sedans, either bad connection in the side of the trunk, or the actual connection to the Squib under the parcel shelf.

     

    Now I have never had any problem removing the connector from the Sedan Parcel shelf Squibs . . . . . BUT HOW IN DOGS NAME DO YOU REMOVE THE CONNECTOR FROM THE SQUIB IN THE BACK CORNER OF THE WAGON LUGGAGE AREA!!!!!!!

     

    I have tried everything to the point of grabbing a set of bolt cutters in a slight fit of rage.

     

    Please, save my sanity.

     

    Baz

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Please ignore my previous post about blocked exhausts, I had two Alfa web pages open at the same time and posted a reply meant for the other web site here by mistake. :Big Grin:

     

    I think you will find the it is still the MAF. Disconnect the MAF and take it for a drive, if it responds and drives better and power is back, then it is the MAF., replace with new one.

     

    Baz

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Ok, you most likely have 2 problems.

     

    1/ The oil on the ground and the dropping to neutral indicates a failing Accumulator. (easy to change)

     

    2/ As the accumulator is not able to hold pressure the pump keeps running all the time trying to keep up pressure. This accelerates wear in the brushes / burns them out. So you most likely will need to replace the pump or renew the brushes. But before doing either with he pump try replacing the pump relay, accelerated use can also burn out the relay contacts.

     

    Baz

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Well the usual reason for the failure of the Pump relay is it operating continuously, usually due to a faulty Accumulator not holding pressure and the pump having to run constantly to keep the pressure up.

     

    Whilst sitting stationary, engine off, with the key in MAR & foot on the brake see how many gear changes you can get before you hear the whine of the pump. 2-3 changes is the norm, if the pump runs every change, time for a new Accumulator.

     

    Baz

    • Like 1

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Unless something is left on, the usual suspect is a faulty Voltage Regulator in the alternator. It is easy to check, just disconnect the lead going from the Alternator to the battery, leave everything else connected. Measure battery voltage. Leave overnight and see if there is a noticeable drop in battery, if not, then you have found the most likely culprit. :Big Grin:

     

    Baz

  16. Posted · Report reply

    " The clue in this was that the release bearing was removed in kit form. This ONLY happens when the front bearing has failed in the gearbox"

     

    Sorry Smaky, but you have me a little confused. I understand what you mean about the front gearbox bearing failing but the comment about the release bearing being removed in kit form? Huh?

     

    I am not in any way disputing your diagnosis, "Grasshopper would never question master", but could you clarify what you mean a little? ;)

     

    Baz

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Ok, I bet the "pinch bolt" has come loose and is physically interfering with the gear changes.

     

    The "Pinch Bolt" is the bolt that connects the actuator to the gearbox selector shaft, and is accesses through the left wheel arch. It is behind a blanking plug, has a hex drive in the head of the bolt, and should be torqued to 30nm.

     

    Torque it up and do an EOL and see how you go.

     

    Baz

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Smaky, that's the line I have been arguing, but it is interesting to know you can use the dwell to diagnose wear. Can you elaborate s little more on that with twinspark & JTS engines?

     

    Baz

  25. Posted · Report reply

    A friend brought up an interesting discussion.

     

    When using the dial gauge to find TDC, the gauge will rise till it stops, then there is a small period of "dead spot"

    where the crank continues but the piston is static, then starts to drop.

     

    When setting TDC for a cam belt change, where is the official correct spot?

     

    A/ When it stops rising

    B/ The middle of the "dead spot"

    C/ The moment it starts to drop

     

    Baz

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