Norlig

I don't have air con, so no compressor The cable for the rpm sensor had a bit of slack on it as I couldn't get it back into its clips. So I didn't want it to rest on the exhaust. I long as it's analog signal doesn't get any interference it should be good, no? Changed wheels today, stupid of me to forget to check the lambda numbers...

I see my MAF plug is the other way around, does that matter?

I havent seen any other Alfa 156 engines so I cant say what should be where, I just put them so that they dont come in contact with moving parts.

loom? Got the Idle actuator apart, could not see any damage to the teeth on the gears, but any clips that were on it broke off, they were weak as toothpicks. got it tight again using cable ties :Black Eye: the engine is the same when I got it back together though. (reseted the parameters and actuator position)

Thanks for the Link! seems I can also take the actuator apart on the cog side and look at the teeth for damage, thought it was a sealed unit (because I have touched the valve once) I'll give it a try in the weekend to open it and look for damage. I'll also see if I am able to get a picture of the numbers on the lambda sensor (I didnt buy or install it)

is 5-8ohm too much? you wrote there should be none. I meassured this from; CAM sensor cable, to Pin 29. Idle Actuator cable to Pin 29, Cam Sensor cable to Idle Actuator cable. It was more or less the same on all of these different tests. Is there any other ways I can test the Idle actuator? I found a used Idle actuator here in Norway for 80£, should I go for this, or buy a new one for 138£(+35%)?

I got it off. There was a clip you had to push between the connector and the body of the idle actuator. I got a beep from my multimeter from all of the spots. The ohm measured was under 10. Ranging from 5-8ohm. Is that acceptable? Black cable around the blue tube is the cam sensor cable, temporarily positioned there to keep it from dropping down. Ignore Ohm readings here, as they are barely touching.

Can't get the connector to the idle actuator off. can't feel what to click or flip to unhook it =/

My chassisnumber is: ZAR93200001157895 Thanks for the Very detailed description, I will get this done straight after work tomorrow. I assume this will tell me if there are faults in the wiring that might cause the idle actuator to act this way.

I got an idle actuator with Bosch #: 0 132 008 650, and VAL #: 972101. I find other actuators with the same Bosch number, but different VAL numbers, I assume it will work as long as Bosch number is the same?, VAL number means something else? Will this one work? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quinton-Hazell-Idle-Control-Valve-Alfa-Romeo-156-1-8-16V-T-SPARK-932A3-97-05-/190945528342?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item2c753d8a16 Acording to this site, its the same: http://www.findpart.org/part/oe-46469916 I think it might be that, as its always act this way at the same position with the throttle pedal and most of the time when idling. Doesnt explain the high fuel consumption when the Lambda was connected though.

I changed the MAF out with another one, and it behaved identical, RPM still going up and down: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBcvcGoF5Jk first part is with the MAF I have had for a year, the other one is with the one that was in use before that, but I am not sure if that one was broken as I dont remember if it helped changing it. Could it be the Black plastic box that is mounted on the Throttle body, as commented in my video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBp_nBOVLGo

I replaced the RPM/crank sensor. I did read up on it and did remove the old O-ring, but does it matter where the cable goes? (interference?) it was very little room behind there and don't think I will be able to get it into the right clip by ease. I will also give the coils a push to check if they are seated correctly. I have a spare bosch MAF that was in the car before the one I have now. I will try to give that one a clean and see if it helps. I did clean the one currently in the car and I cant remember if it helped or not, but if it was cooked then it probably wouldn't have helped anyway.

New MAF and lambda, or only MAF?

I had it like this before, got told I should put it back to original as this introduced too high air temperatures to the engine: Bought a new Air filter and took it back to stock air after that, currently its sitting like this: RPM does Fluctuate like the picture in my post above for 85% of the time when I press in the clutch, but its more apparent when the car is moving forward for some reason. (as you can see when I parked (747 seconds) if I press the clutch when standing still, it does not always fluctuate like that at 13.25 minutes in the video, you see me play with the throttle while checking the throttle position. it is 3.3 deg. when idling, but if I use the pedal and then when I let it go, it drops to 2.8 deg. for a second, then goes back to 3.3 deg. could this be the initiation of that up,down,up,down with my RPM? that the valve closes too much, causing the RPM to drop, causing the ECU to open it automatically, causing the RPM To rise and then it closes, etc, etc?

Would the RPM act like this when the lambda is disconnected, when idling?

Yes

The car seems to be behaving when driving now, still want a few more drives to work and home to be sure, but I havent had any major issues like the last 100m home yesterday. I recorded MES while driving home again: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHFcTP9qfpY When I push in the clutch, this happens: From what I can see, the Injection time goes high, then the RPM falls. Then the injection time goes low and the RPM rises. Then injection time rises and RPM falls again. I also checked the Self adaptive values before driving home and when I got home, they did not change at all. Also, the desired intake air quantity, and the actual air quantity is really far apart, the desired one really wants to stay way way low for some reason.

thats what I thought, drove to work with no changes from yesterday, it was better than normal, but still not perfect. will also try to reset what you said above before driving home. Thanks!

Should I reset all self adaptive parameters by connecting my laptop to it, or should I disconnect the battery for 45mins. Let idle 15 then drive it? What defines an ecu reset?

Driving home, I was suprised how smooth it was. It Didn't jutter or feel weird when cruising, rpm's wasn't doing below 800. But then I stopped to get my mail and I heard the engine rpm fall low and the engine shake. I got in and started to drive the 100m left to the house and it was really juttering and rpm was going low and car shaking. This car...

I'll unplug it before I drive home from work and see if there is an improvement

error code: The lambda is showing as going very low for a good period of time, and also going very high, It is mostly when I release the gas pedal, or only slightly move above idle (cruising) it that I notice jutterings and bad behavior. Also when in traffic, when in a queue I want to move forward and I rev the engine to get going, when I have have gotten to a point where I release the clutch fully the car will sort of halt for a small moment and then keep going

I do get an error code for the lambda, but took it as an issue from earlier in the engine. I'll post the error code tomorrow. Both the MAF and lambda is just over a year old, but I see how it could be the lambda as I don't think it's original. The MAF is bosch though. I thoroughly looked through the pipe between the MAF and throttle body for tears, I found none. I will check the Wells for oil, when I changed the plugs a year ago, the one furthest left had some in that, but seller said it was because of him spilling when he filed up the oil.

That is indeed the part that the workshop said that they had looked into, and did not find any issues with. I linked them Gazza's post to make sure as well.

The only day fault code I get is for the lambda sensor, but that is because of problems earlier in the cycle I think. The sensor is only a year old. It reports a lean status almost constantly though and values stop to below 200mV for a split second sometimes. So I'm not sure about it actually. The valve with the spring you speak of, is this the oil seperator valve next to the throttle body? If so the workshop checked it and didn't find any faults with it. If not, where is this located? (Plenum chamber?) this Smaky guy sounds nice