alfizta
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Posts posted by alfizta
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I simulated the tuning by fitting bits of 0,5mm thick plastic between the bolt and the metal stop, and it was enough to change the idle speed. so, is better not to touch it.
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I confirm it. DON'T touch it!
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and if I just screw it in just before the throttle valve opens?
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it's the bolt pointing left/upwars that I want to adjust to get a quicker response from the throttle valve. throttle cable is already tight as it can get. I only want to know if I am messing with something serious, or wont give me that much trouble...
thank you!
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you always have something bad to say...
this is not how it actualy looks fitted. the end of the tube was raised and sits just below the headlights. that's what I mean with the "turn like the opriginal pipe"...
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80 mm diameter exhaust aluminium tube, with a bit of insulation arround (about 1 mm thick) at the air filter box entrance to fit tight.
streched a bit to make a turn like the original v6 intake pipe.
tie wrap at the end.
deeper sound, and just a little bit noisier than with resonator on. not even close to the noise with only the resonator off.
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156 passed. "no" faults. well... just an headlight not fitted right...
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Top info Smaky! Many thanks!
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That kit number I gave you, for the 3 filters it is cheaper to buy at a dealers than any autofactor,
eper says it's for 2001 cars or later. mine is 2000 :\ anyway, still more expensive than just the oil and air filters...
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Is the classicline no's the old legacy part no?
maybe. but both can be ordered.
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thanks for the tip, Smak! I'm skiping the cabin filter this year... but since that filter pack comes with the 7786626 air filter, that's the one I'm going to get. oil filter part numbers don't match. appears to be a MY 2001-2005 filter pack. anyway, MY 1997-2000 LHD oil filter part numbers don't match with the pack either, 46808398 (oil) ???? + 7786626 (air) + 60653641 (cabin)
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hi there!
going to change my 156 air and oil filters, but eper dvd gives me 3 different part numbers for the air filter:
7786626
71771765 «CLASSIC LINE» - this one is cheaper
71765458 «MULTIPACK 6 PZ»
for the oil filter, 2 different part numbers:
71736159
71771758 «CLASSIC LINE» - this one is cheaper
anyone knows the difference between these?
thanks!
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also thought of heating water on a pot with the thermostat and a temp gauge inside, but don't have the gauge, so... that's another time...
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thanks, Smak! just finished the job. just an hose clip got lost. hope it didn't get inside where it shouldn't
thought you would be glad to know your guides on AO are still being helpfull best wishes! -
tested it. it does not go through. maybe the stat was not stuck but just opening too soon, about 65 ºC... with the new one temp gauge is steady above 80 ºC.
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hi everyone!
in the midle of changing my 146 1.6 TS CF1 stat. would like to hear from you people how do you tell by the looks of my old stat that it is faulty?
old, BEHR make
new, VERNET make
and shoul I order a new temp sender?
temp sender before and after a cleaning
thank you!
alfizta
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I get the NGK plugs cheaper from dealers than any other supplier, even with trade discounts.
you should have a internet website to sell us some goodies
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I've been comparing the alternatives, and I think, even if you are on low budget, that they are not worth enough. I would rather risk changing the main plugs only. I've tested several times running the car only on main plugs and didn't notice any change,no ecu errors, even on lambda. perhaps on emissions, (that's one of the reasons the secondary plugs are there) but only with proper hardware can figure it out.
anyway, on ebay and places other than AR dealers, you can find the OEM plugs for a VERY decent price.
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my 146 will be there for me when that day comes
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back to normal setup, but never noticed nothing unusual...
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did this some days ago when repairing the window regulator. didn't get to the O ring :Rolling Eyes:, but cleaned what I could and it's apparently good and working...
easier to take the lock off the door if you rotate it 180º and press the button.
thanks again, Smaky!
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will try that if the time comes. Thanks!
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Yes. It felt that easy to me too before I got my hands on it. For you to put the cables back on the clip it is needed huuuuge strength. I managed to get the cables on clip, but because some extra cable slept from inside the motor's pulley housing, without me noticing it. then I put it back on place, tried the open/close switch and felt like a cambelt failure, but in a minor scale... total disapointment. when I got the new regulator I noticed the huge tension applied on these cables...
if there's a next time, I'll find a way and post it
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nice. I'll let it die until it's dead for sure.
Cambelt Change Without The Camlock Tool
in Engine Help
Posted · Report reply
another question...
what engines types do not need these tools?