xyy81t

Smaky you are a true gent! - PM sent

I'm having problems again How long should an accumulator last? shes having difficulty finding gears again, i've changed the battery as the old one was not putting out strong enough voltage but this has not helped. I've run the EOL routine and the others before that but no improvement and she doesn't sound the same anymore and the EOL routine takes much longer to complete than it used to. i think its proably gear-box related as I've never been able to solve the jerky in the morning problem, now its getting colder she seems to be giving up completely. first thing in the morning she selects first and reverse fine but flashes in second, cant find 3rd or 5th (with the engine off) once running its the same but improves once warmed up. Is there a guide of what to look for when overhauling a Selespeed actuator? i have the original in the shed and would like to refurb it if possible and rule out the Actuator completely. One thing i haven't checked yet is the gear box oil level, but it always been clunky when selecting gears, not grinding just clunking. Shes at 142k miles now so i think it might be time to get a younger model unless i can sort this.

anyone know of a cheap spray shop in the oxfordshire area? my mate has a project which is ready for a cheap white coat of paint, everyone he's approached is unwilling to do it, hes near the point of doing it himself with rattle cans so in a last ditch effort if anyone knows of someone with a booth who could spend a sunday spraying.. let me know

yep Its deffo the bottom end checked the timing again tonight and its spot on and checked the compression too and getting 190psi on first three cylinders and 200 on the fourth with a dry test so no leaky valves there, will start stripping down the bottom of the engine at the weekend, hopefully a new set of shells will suffice although i'm painfully aware that all my testing may have damaged the crank, if so then i'll have to pick up a replacement from the local scrappy, i can't be doing with re-grinding it and finding fatter shells...we'll see

I agree, the sound is very similar to that of a bottom end knock and thinking about it, if the timing is set with the variator in the advanced position then over advancing would be impossible it would however be possible to over retard if the variator then returned to its natural position. However, I have never heard of a bottom end failing so suddenly and not knocking under load. I guess I'll have to strip the bottom end and see

okay heres a bit more information: At idle in 1st gear releasing the clutch gently putting load on the engine makes no change to the knocking, it is barely audible at idle. when disconnecting the variator solenoid the noise is significantly reduced, upon replacing the connector the stutters (as expected) and recovers and the severity of the noise returns. the noise is loudest at around 1500-2000 rpm. (i have not revved it over 3000) just thinking out loud here: is it possible that a failed variator would cause these symptoms? it sounds to me like the timing on the inlet cam is out, could a failed variator cause the timing to be set incorrectly? i.e if it was not returning fully to its natural position and as a result is over-advancing the inlet cam shaft? Here's another video, it sounds really loud and horrible but in reality at idle the engine sounds sweet as a nut. i think the next step is to replace the variator and see if that solves it? http://youtu.be/6GSmQ4MQ0jE

Thanks smaky, i am only worried about the knocking at the moment. the belts have just been changed including tensioners and idlers so the pulley noise you mention is probably for the aux belt idler or tensioner. cam lobes are not significantly worn although i am pretty sure the knock is coming from the top-end, any way to be sure about bottom end failure without removing the sump? Here a link to the photos i took when changing the belts. Perhaps you could cast your expert eye over them and see if you can spot anything obvious. http://s470.photobucket.com/albums/rr70/micahwilkinson/145%20QV%20Bob/

in keeping with the title of this thread and as i made this vid for another forum thread which is yet to offer any possible leads i give you noise number 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_LI-XpUuFg

Screw it, I guess I'll just have to take the sump off and inspect the crank.

i am running out of patience with this car. After changing the gear box and radiator last Saturday i went for a mid length drive for a day out with no problems on the way, everything was fine, but on the way back overtook another car no where near to the red line but foot flat in 4th to accomplish the manouvre reaching about 75 mph. After that there was a knocking coming from the engine bay, thinking that my new box had failed in some way i limped home. once home i was convinced that the noise was coming from the top-end and the timing had slipped so i ordered a new belt kit and when that arrived wednesday i started changing the belts etc. I checked the timing before removing the old belts and it was spot on. as the belts were due i continued and changed them anyway, there was no damage to the old belts. i finished up this evening and the noise is still there. it sounds to me like the bottom end is knocking but it doesn't do it under load and only in a specific rev range, about 1800 - 2500 rpm i darn't rev it higher than that though. I've checked the timing 5 times now after running and it is right on the money. No idea how a bottom end can sudenly go like that.

thanks Smaky. Removing the studs is on the list to do this week as well as a full cam-belt service, I'll admit i was astonished to see that the bracket was still attached and had not hit anything for nearly 13 years! there is a bit of a gouge on the sump itself so thats been whacked at some point but the bracket is unscathed. It has already found its way to the bin As far as the clutch goes, it engages smoothly and seems to be functioning normally although i suppose time will tell if its longevity is poor. the release bearing that came with the kit (pictured) is crap, there are metal plates that protect the plastic where the clutch fork pushes against it, these have broken already, whether that was encouraged by the wobbly input shaft or not i dunno, but I've replaced it again with what seems to be a better one, again, time will tell. This has been a steep learning curve and I am gratefull for everyones help.

i do yes, that picture was taken at an angle, perspective makes the clutch look like its not 'centered' but it is/was.

new box is on and the noise has disapeared i can't see anything wrong with the old box, the release bearing and pressure plate are fine?! but the input shaft bearing cover was deformed at the end probably from the previous release bearing but the input bearing looks fine but then i'm not a qualified mechanic!

not to worry, picked up another box today so will just swap them over and and be done with it, may replace the release bearing if its fooked, we'll see once the box is off.

I'll check I tightened the starter up firmly but I'm quite sure the noise is coming from the gear box. Is the offending bearing easy to replace? Or does it need a press etc?, easier just to get a new box?

ummm.... i fitted it so only myself to blame if i've cocked it up, but how can this happen? its not my first clutch change. you're that confident its the release bearing? even though: a: its brand new b: it only makes noise in N, 1st, 2nd and Reverse c: its the same noise I heard before buying the car..(i put it down to release bearing then as clutch had completey gone) plus if it was the release bearing i'd expect the noise to stop when pressing on the clutch slightly (but still engaged) it doesn't stop unless in 3rd, 4th, 5th or clutch completely depressed.

But the clutch and release bearing on it are brand new, fitted only this week? How can It be knackered straight away? Felt lovely and smooth in my hand before it went on

yes it does but not straight away, after a second it does, it can't be the thrust bearing as the one on it is brand new

finally got my qv ready for its MOT, dropped it off the axle stands to take it round the block to wear some rust off the discs and there is a very unusual noise coming from the gearbox. it made this noise when i started it up before i bought it, but as the clutch had gone (release bearing) i put the noise down to that. Now a new clutch and bearing are on the noise is still there. I have topped the gear box full of fresh GL5 oil but i fear the noise is from a bearing inside the gearbox somewhere? what do you guys think? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKsBny0JE0g&feature=youtu.be

Thank you smaky, helpful as ever

properly described as a caliper carrier i'm told

are the ones off a twin spark 156 the same as the ones on a 145 cloverleaf? got my mot tomorrow and i've lost one, local scrappy has a 2 156's for defo but not sure if they've got a 145/6. i'm going tomorrow morning to have a look for a 145/6 but if they haven't got any will the bracket off a 156 be the same? thank you!

not to worry, i think i found it http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-SEAL-O-S-DIFF-DRIVESHAFT-ALFA-ROMEO-100300-40004760-/140685824433?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20c18751b1

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-SEAL-GEARBOX-INPUT-ALFA-ROMEO-145-147-156-GT-GTV-100430-40004820-/130397319941?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e5c493305 this looks similar but its not the input shaft seal i need, would they be the same size by any chance? i searched in eper and the part number comes up but it doesn't show me pictures for where it goes!

sooo i damaged the current one getting the box out, i need to replace it obviously but i can't find them for sale anywhere online and eper doesn't help me with a part number (i cant find it there either) its for a 99 145 2.0 cloverleaf