Smaky
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Posts posted by Smaky
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This does happen when the 2.5/3.0 timing locks are used on a 3.2, but it's normally throwing up codes from the first day when that is done AND there is a backfire which is VERY obvious to the ear.
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Hope so.
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I think he's jumped the gun and split the engine already, the trouble is that diagnosis from across the globe is only as good as the feedback to the questions, to this end just because it can be one thing doesn't always mean it is and other things should always be investigated before diving into the big fix, because when you've rebuilt everything you may inadvertently repair the issue which could be as minor as a loose clip or split hose and not even realise.
An as Baz suggest an what I was pointing to at the start, it may be unmetered air entering, this will lean out the engine and cause the lambda readings you've had all the way through.
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OK then, there is either a fault with the spindle seal of one of the 2 connections on the back then, the lower one is the rigid pipe, this has an adaptor as well where it screws into the pump, the upper line is just the feed which is a push on pipe with an R-clic clamp. So it may be as simple as the clamp has sliced the hose.
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In the O/s front wheel arch, remove the wheel and inspection cover, to the tor right you'll see the steering pipes pass through a bracket, it is inside this bracket they normally rot and leak, simple fix with a length of hose and 2 clamps on the one that's leaking.
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Hopefully the guide came in useful.
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I'd also advise you have a compression test done to ensure the rings, valves and liners aren't damaged/worn by the extra heat caused by these misfires.
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They've messed that remap right up, though the Lambda you've swapped may be faulty the readings are wrong, all lambdas at idle should be closed loop.
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Have you cleared the codes?
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The JTS sump is a straight swap for the 2.0 and 1.8 TS lump, after all, it's the same one.
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Remove the cam cover, I've contacted the owner I knew and he said 3 years ago it burst the oil cooler because some garage tightened up the oil filter too much, ran out of oil and the knocking started (bottom end gone), if it has now been filled with oil and run then the cams will be worn too.
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Yeah the whole problem is the TS interface with the CANbus of the facelift, almost all of the Aus imports have this problem, the gearbox temp is an estimated figure and I'm sure all these problem cars have had the ECU map fiddled with for emission control as they had to meet euro4 limits at the time of import so it's got to be something to do with that as the engines wear and parameters alter.
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It has to be a loose plug, relay or fuse, the plastic casing expanding in the ambient heat and pushing out of the holder/socket, anything else and the symptoms would be the other way round
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I can only think it's going to be the engine ECU at fault which will mean replacing that, the code box and key chips.
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I'd expect an air leak to be at the corrugated section of pipe just before the throttle body if it was affecting this many cylinders.
Now you mention this is happening at the lights I'm beginning to think this could be tied in to another electrical system, So if possible can you check the codes on the ABS ECU, I think you may find the clutch or brake pedal sensor playing up.
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The problem with these lights is exactly as you say, the position of the Ballast, But there is a way round it, simply apply somne Vaseline to the bulb covers and silicone sealant around the gap for the wiring, the lights still need a breather hole to allow moisture and heated air out, so never completely seal a headlight.
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Is there a constant bulb failure warning even though they all work (including number plate lights)?
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I'm thinking it's possibly the MAF sensor and it's trimming the fuel too much, or that the remap is to blame, but you need to have the codes read or we are just guessing and if there are no codes then MAF is the usual suspect (even if it's new) or an air leak, the fuel pump is an option and the pressure can be tested but usually if the pump is failing then power is lost top end as the fuel isn't available.
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Check the continuity of the earth side of the injectors on 1,2 and 3, then check the fuel rail for kinks or splis in the fuel line between the front and rear banks.
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The code it's reporting is the rear bank upper sensor, check the plug is connected firmly (it's inside the black box on the intake manifold), but I think this could be a cooked Lambda caused by a map that is running too lean, Also check the ECU socket for bent pins, if there are any then VERY carefully try to straighten them.
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It could be the Lambda is faulty and unable to control in a rich condition. Or it could be the Lambda. If I recall this has been remaped and modified, if the airfilter has been swapped then this may have also killed your new MAF.
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And they all laugh at my banana spana
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The EOL will compensate for wear and tear, but not for mechanical faults, although if say the front bearing has collapsed, if the shaft is still central enough then an EOL will pass as the selectors will still engage correctly,
Normally problems that go away for months are down to heat soak, during the winter things appear fine then the warm weather comes and the problems start, this IS normally down to a sensor or solenoid and those 20 or so degrees do make the difference.
Power Steering Pipe Failures/leak
in General Tech Help
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Unless the spindle seized and sheared the shaft or blades on the pump.