Smaky
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Posts posted by Smaky
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It shouldn't be a problem, the tolerance is 7% between wheel speeds to create an issue, but it requires 100% difference between 2 wheels for the system to activate or show a fault.
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Try connecting it straight to the battery and see if it kicks it into life, if it doesn't then open it up and clean out all the dust from the worn brushes and check the condition of the new ones.
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Take the arch liner out and see if the noise goes away...
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2. is correct, BUT 1 is not, IF you were to convert it to a GTA or late 2.5, then the dashboard is not a problem, BUT it all has to come out anyway to replace the wiring looms to meet the requirements for a V6. It all depends on wether it's a CF2 or 3 V6.
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THis is the pump, what you can do is try and kick start the pump, it lives behind the left hand head light, you can see the pipes coming off the end off the pump section, using a stick just hit the pump after you've just opened the drivers door, if it springs into life then the car should run fine until the pump stops in that "dead spot" again, I'd recommend replacing the pump or if you are able to, replacing the motor brushes as shown in the guide section of this forum.
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That is probably the connectors under the seats, put some small tiewraps around then length ways to hold the plugs together tightly and then reset the airbag ECU again, this should stop the problem happening again.
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The first problem sounds like a lower wishbone ball joint and the squeak is definitely the upper wishbone, if the rubbing is the same side then the answer is both of them need replacing.
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Hi, and welcome, anyway the 164 is a beast and restoring her is a challenge worth taking on, but before you go too deep I'd advise checking the floor panels, along the sills and up under the rear wheel arches for tin worm which may ruin your day during an MOT. Back to the question, the other 2 spark plugs are in the same place in the other head, but you need to remove the inlet plenum chamber, not a massive task but fiddly with all the clamps and little screws.
Have fun and hope to see some pics of her soon,
Regards
Alex
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Was thinking possibly MAF but there are no warning lights on the dash and no fault codes on MES, (except for P0115 Water temp sensor,but that's a separate issue) and disconnecting it makes no difference.
If disconnecting it makes no difference then you have found the area of the problem, first though check that all air inlet duct clamps are tight and that none of the ducts have leaks, then commit to a new MAF.
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Loose engine mount?
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You can use a set of plumbers pliers to compress the piston back into place and then insert the locking pin.
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The weight I believe was 800g, but there is a difference between its positioning now for engine ages.... http://www.totallyalfa.com/assets/docs/164%20V6%20TENSIONER%20BULLETIN%20B.pdf
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Well I hope they're not charging you for their incompetence. And I hope it is sorted now, but if the rod was that far out you may have a clutch change coming up.
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I doubt that. The clue in this was that the release bearing was removed in kit form. This ONLY happens when the front bearing has failed in the gearbox, this is exactly what I think has happened, when you removed the gearbox did you get much oil out of it and did you check the mag plug for debris? I think the box needs to come off again and be striped right down. Then I think you'll find the problem is obvious. You'll also probably need yet another clutch kit as your new one will be soaked in gearbox oil.
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That would lower the temp as it would be flooding the engine, I'd look further into the water pump, if it was a plastic one that was fitted then it's possible the first time it overheated it cracked, then flush the cooling system, if there is a blockage then the flow obviously isn't there. Your ambient temp will keep it a little warmer in slow traffic but this should bring on the fan more ofter....so I'd replace the temp sensor incase it's sending false signals to the ECU, this would also underfuel the engine and this also increases the temp.
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Lower arm rear bush is the most common cause of that knock..
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The leak at the front is common from where you've described it, GT's also suffer in the same place.
The rear leak could be the aerial (if there is one) or from the rear hatch electrics grommet between body and bootlid.
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An update on my JTS. Looking at the inlet ports three cylinders were full of carbon and one was washed with engine oil. Inlet manifold gasket leak as Smaky said. My engine was also difficult to start as this cylinder was loading the starter motor because of the oil.
Thanks for the help
was it #2?
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P1133 HO2S Insufficient Switching Sensor 1
P1153 Bank 2 Fuel Control Shifted Lean
P1176 Cam Calibration Fault
OK, 3 related fault codes, from these I would check the timing, it reads that the rear cam is out slightly compared to the crank, this can cause the emmisions related issues that are being picked up.
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Sad news, time for a Q2 then...
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The board in the dash switch module for the fogs can get damp and the resulting corrosion can short the tracks on it, as this switch is connected to the body computer IC which then flicks the relay to power the lights, it is something that should be addressed as this can blow the body computer.
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That would be because you either have a blown brake light or the bulb holders plug needs a clean up.
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Selespeed "start-Up"
in Selespeed/Automatic Gearbox Help
Posted · Report reply
If the system has been completely drained then you'll need to ensure it is filled prior to connecting the battery and opening the drivers door, whilst it's running for the first time ensure the sele oil level stays above the plate in the reservoir, make sure the clutch rod position is set correctly and locked, and then operate the gear change with the key at MAR but engine not running, this allows you to select ALL gears, do around 30 changes as this should bleed the system sufficiently and show if the pump and accumulator are working OK, check the fluid level and ensure that with the system in neutral that the clutch rod length is again within limits.