Ola W
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Posts posted by Ola W
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Hi Smaky
You're The Guru, you can ask whatever you want!
Had some various P1741, 1742, 1743 and 0725. Also 1703. Changed the crank sensor to a new one and checked the clutch speed sensor which was ok. Have also checked and cleaned all the position sensors and done calibraion. The car was then up and runing for two days but then troubled us again, as I then just touched the cable harness on the "car-side" the car stalled and again gave faults.
It can of course also be the 20-pin, have done the classic 15-times connect/disconnect. The cabling on the actuator side have I checked and signals are comming throgh all ok. This led me to check the other side and thats when I spotted the possible disruption on pin 5&8.
Please do not hesitate to corret me if you think I'm on the wrong track!
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Hi again from Sweden!
Having problem with my daughters 147 Sele again. Have narrow it down to what seems to be a disrupted ground connection on the female side of the 20pin connetor. I cannot track any connection from pin 8 and 5 to the Sele ECU (M54A pin 1) or the front dashbord connector (D1 pin 7) or ground at Right front earth (C11). I'm guessing that somewhere along the harness the cables from pin 8 and 5 are connected together and that's wheremy problem is.
Is there sombody who have a clue on where along the cable-harness that these cables are joined together? (Not so fond of the idea of ripping up the whole harness, all the other connections from the 20-pin are ok and ringed out).
Regards!
Ola in Sweden
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Cheers Smaky! Got it all together on wednesday evening since the weather was good, still now snow. And happy happy now the car runs!
Doesn´t shift that smooth between 2:nd and 3:rd but since the clutch is new I will do a re-cal this weekend. Had it set to 28,1 but noticed that it now was down below 28. My old actuator wich I mounted back first didn't work. Don't know if it was broken before or if I messed up fitting it back. Position of the plunge to fit on to the gearlever on gbox seems of since I can't get the signal sensors for gear engagement (high) and selection (low) to work (P1741 & P1742). Loosend them and noticed that they didn't "twist in" right when mounting them back. Will dismantle it and learn more about it and hopefully get it right. Thankfully I got another when I bought the second hand gbox and it worked. Thanks for all the help and input on this work! -
Managed to engage six gears on the new gbox today.
Lever pressed down to distance from top of lever to machined surface where actuator is attached.
Distance approx. 39 mm
Turned left – Gear ?
Turned right – Gear Reverse
Distance approx. 30 mm
Turned left – Gear ?
Turned right – Gear ?
Distance approx.23 mm
Turned left – Gear ?
Turned right – Gear ?
Left and right seen from back of gearbox.
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Thanx Guru-Smaky! Fabulous, looking forward to this. I expected somthing in that direction (pushing down and twisting) and on the "new" gearbox this seem to be manageble. I don't have the grip of the method to test it though. On the old gbox on the other hand the selector seem to be stuck! I don't want to stress you in any way, but the weather forecast for the upcomming weekend is good and I am doing the work outside. The autumn in mid-Sweden is otherwise now closer to winter than summer... Thanks again!
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Ok, update from Sweden. Got a second hand gearbox from the junkyard from a -00 156.
After more or less ten hours the old gearbox is now out of the 147. Manage to get it out without removing the sub-frame, but don’t know if I would recommend it to others…
Smaky! -Before I put the new old gearbox in the car is there any known method to check if the gearbox can shift into gears, with the actuator removed that is?
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Would of course be great if anyone could give a clue to what bearing this is. If it is a chance to do some repair. The gearwheels in the end case didn´t looked damaged. Suppose that remains of the bearing could have spread to the rest of the gearbox anyway. Smaky? (Tried up-loading a pic via Skydrive without success).
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Ok, an update from todays tinkering with the Sele... Did some search on other threads and followed some of the suggested actions.
-Brake sensor, function seems ok. Brake light turns on and I get pressed/depressed readings from MES.
-Clutch speed sensor, removed and it looked all ok, no damages or grease. Also measured it to just below 1200 ohms.
-Next thing, popped the end case of the gearbox. Not so much oil… But pieces of what seem to be the remains of a needle bearing
.So from here I am guessing that the only way to go is to change the gearbox.
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And about leaking oil…
Can´t answer for how it was before we bought it a couple of weeks ago. Is not that oily and dirty underneath. And when we took it home it didn´t even start. Since then it starts and I have also driven it once for about 8-10 km or so, in all gears. Didn´t change gears super-smooth but no big problems. No big pool of oil under it and it has been parked in the same place and on hard ground so if that had happened I should have noticed.
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Engine off Engine on
Gear/engage position mm 24,852 24,89
Selection position mm 16,94 16,975
Clutch pressure plate travel mm 28,35 11,676
Clutch pressure plate reference mm 0 11,76
Hydraulic circuit pressure bar 49,519 47,019
Coolant temperature °C 27 46
Battery voltage V 12,5326 14,1343
Engine speed rpm 0 1096
Clutch RPM rpm 0 0
Vehicle speed km/h 0 0
Odd number gears current mA 0 0
Even number gears current mA 0 0
Clutch solenoid valve current mA 0 920,4
Actual torque Nm 149 -3
Calculated engine torque Nm 149 -2
A/T selector lever position No request No request
Gear engaged N N
Desired gear N N
Automatic transmission OFF OFF
Driver's door Open Open
Brake pedal position Released Released
Ignition key ON/OFF ON ON
Pump relay control OFF OFF
Engine startup Allowed Allowed
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Have been doing some practical work on her today.
As suggested I disconnected the battery and short- circuited for 10 sec or so. (I have tried this procedure earlier to). Sadly no improvement though.
I then got the whole Sele electrical wiring out of the car. Rang out the whole wiring with a multi-meter, all connectors seemed to be ok and “in contact†with the 20-pin connector. Then I went off to check the pf2c-sensors. The two on top was easy to loose and connected them on the bench to a 5V feed, turned them round with screwdriver and measured a signal out on pin C, so they should be ok. The third one, on the backside, of course had a worn torx screw. No luck with getting that one out then. Managed to hook it up to a 5V feed and, with some struggle, measure the signal on pin C to 0V. Don´t know if it should be activated or not, should it???
Checked all EV:s for short circuit – all seemed ok. Refitted it all back and checked for any improvements. Had fault codes P1745 and P1746, Lever switch 0 and 1, Invalid signal, Stored.
No problem to clear these out, otherwise no change.
Parameters for engine off and on in post below.
Clutch drain before calibration ok, then tried a calibration which aborted same as before, “1st and 2nd sel.errorâ€.
Engine starts, but won´t get out of N. Not able to shift gears in MAR either.
What next Smaky?
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Thanks Smaky!
Will test this tomorrow and get back with any results and/or progress.
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Engine off
Engine on
Time
sec
0
0
Number of rewrites
0
0
Gear/engage position
mm
24,7
24,814
Selection position
mm
16,94
16,94
Clutch pressure plate travel
mm
28,266
11,508
Clutch pressure plate reference
mm
0
11,55
Accelerator pedal position
%
0
0
Hydraulic circuit pressure
bar
44,038
50,962
Coolant temperature
°C
45
41
Battery voltage
V
12,5045
14,05
Engine speed
rpm
0
1128
Clutch RPM
rpm
0
0
Vehicle speed
km/h
0
0
Odd number gears current
mA
0
0
Even number gears current
mA
0
0
Clutch solenoid valve current
mA
0
912,6
Actual torque
Nm
158
-2
Calculated engine torque
Nm
158
0
A/T selector lever position
No request
Forwards
Gear engaged
N
N
Desired gear
N
2
Automatic transmission
OFF
OFF
Driver's door
Closed
Closed
Brake pedal position
Released
Pressed
Ignition key ON/OFF
ON
ON
Pump relay control
OFF
OFF
Engine startup
Allowed
Allowed
TAG
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Hi and hello from Sweden. I'm puzzled about my daugthers 147 Selespeed. Bougth it a couple of weeks ago and then it didn´t even start. From there I have manage to get it to start and also driven it shortly, with all gears in action. Now it is stuck in N, still the engine starts though. I think it has been filled with the wrong Sele-oil, red coulered I guess is Dextron, or at least not CS Speed. I have now drained and refilled it with CS and levelled. Pump is working, clutch rod is adjusted, no fault codes and all solenoids sounds and seem to be working when activated with FES. The 20-pin connector have been disconnected and connected 50 times or more. Also been over the relay. Battery seems ok. Calibration returnes "1st and 2nd sel. error". Readings from FES as per below engine off and on:
Could anyone (Smaky I guess
) spot anything wrong. What would be likely to check next? Disconnect/connect stick and check micro-switches? Brake sensor, brake light is working... Any specific wiring/solenoids/connectors/relay/fuse. Any help will be much appriciated here in Sweden!
Cable Break/disruption From 20-Pin
in Selespeed/Automatic Gearbox Help
Posted · Report reply
Up and running again!
Don't really know what it was I did that got it going again, been all over the wiring. I do suspect the front right ground C11 which I cleaned and thighten up. Need to remove he front bumper to get to it. The 20-pin might also have done it's best as a failing point. Can't say that I'm fond of that bloody connector!
Anyhow up and running for now...