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2.0 TS cylinder head

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So I'm finally sending my cylinder head to the engineers for a skim (blew head gasket) and I was thinking of having the ports done (port and polish, gasflow), will I gain more power? Is it a good idea or not?

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The skim I agree with, rhe rest is a waste of time, the ports are rough so that airflow is stirred up mixing the fuel and air better on the way into the cylinder so that an improved burn is possible, polish the ports nd you end up with laminate airflow and uneven burn creating hot spots on the piston crowns which weaken them and either hole them or worse melt them.

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No problem, The only TS that porting worked on was the CF1 2.0 in the 155/145/146 which had the alloy inlet manifold, opening up the outlet on the manifold to match the stub manifold gained about 3 Bhp without anything else, but apart from that you have to start replacing Cams, pistons, rods, head gasket, throttle body, resonator box for V6 duct and so on...

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Ok I got the cylinder head back, valves were leaking as well as a skim was necessary, according to the engineers the head bolts weren't torqued properly therefore causing the gasket to blow, how on earth do they come up with that

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according to the engineers the head bolts weren't torqued properly therefore causing the gasket to blow, how on earth do they come up with that

 

They must have built it before! :poke:

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Well mine definately was, maybe its a cheap pirate one or something but the coolant wasn't circulating, n there's no problem with the pump nor the radiator and no leaks

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In 22 years of th TS engine I've never seen or heard of one stuck closed, but I have seen people use radweld in the engine and this has led to the cooling ports becoming blocked and this gives you the symptom of a blocked thermostat as does the fins rotting off the radiator, meaning it's not leaking but it's not cooling either.

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Ok let me explain what used to happen then, it used to heat up to about 3/4 on idle or in traffic, then the minute I start moving, it goes down to 90, what should I check then?

 

Oh yes and when I put my old thermostat on the it runs cold when driving and 90 when idling

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Probably an over-reading guage...have you done a live data check on diags yet?

 

Guages have a different feed to the ECU so they don't often actually read the same as the signal the ECU is receiving, also I missed off temp sensor and degraded radiator fins from the list in your other thread.

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I would.. especially the return pipe to the header tank, noticed my temp suddenly rise last week, found the water low, when i nudged the little bit of of pipe next to the cap it sprayed out nice hot coolant from a small crack. £20 to replace the tank. Not saying that was the issue, but if left it would have resulted in a more catastrophic failure.

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Speaking about diags, which is better? Alfadiag or fiatecuscan, I used fiatecuscan but a very old version (because it was free) to do the calibration of the selespeed, but now I am going to purchase a licence so which is the better one?

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Without doubt Fiatecuscan, I find alfadiag too unstable and for many people it just confuses the as they don't know which ECU to connect to, and when they do find out it drops out every 20 seconds so you can't achieve anything. FES on the otherhand lists each model of car and which ECU you may have, connect to the wrong one and you get a warning plus it has only dropped out on me a few times and in every case it was because the cars batteries were low.

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Hi! Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but didn't think it was worth starting a new thread! About 2 weeks back the lower / smaller front thermostat hose (leading to bottom of engine / radiator) on my 2002 156 2.0 TS burst and the car overheated while I was looking for a safe spot to pull over. By the time I pulled over the temperature gauge's red light was already lit. I let the car cool for about 15 minutes (not much good in tropical heat) while I patched the hose and found water to refill it. Replaced the hose and the car ran fine for a few days, but last Monday the car suddenly started overheating in traffic, so I did some troubleshooting:

 

1. Thermostat (took it out and boiled it while suspended multiple times, opening and closing normally)

2. Radiator fan (low and high speeds working normally, resistor is fine)

3. Radiator (sent in for a clean, but leak suspected at the plastic side, so replaced with an available aluminium 147 radiator and hoses)

4. Expansion tank is newish, expansion tank cap is newish, hoses are fine, new fluids and coolant.

5. Temperature sender and gauge is fine (confirmed by comparing MES and gauge readings + feeling the hose temperature and stiffness)

 

So i took the car out on multiple evenings and it'll idle at normal temperature, but will sometimes overheat (110c +) when I rev the engine up to 5-6k rpm. This will cool down very quickly if the car is still moving, but it'll continue creeping up if car is stationary. Sometimes the temperature will rise and promptly drop even if I'm cruising slowly at 2-3k rpm. The workshop suspects that I might have a blown head gasket (but cylinder head should be fine), so the plan of action is to skim the head and replace with a new head gasket while patching my cracked plastic inlet manifold. My question is, would the skim be enough to fix the issue? Or is a cylinder head replacement needed? Thanks!

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Water pump is new, replaced along with the timing belt kit about 2-3 months and less than 1000km ago, so that should rule it out I guess!

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Skimming the head is fine, they should test the head first for any cracks etc. The gta had head gasket failure and I had both heads skimmed. Check the water pump anyway if your taking the head off. The Impeller may have detached from the shaft and doesn't spun fast enough when the revs go up

 

Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

 

 

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Thanks for the advice Smiffy! I'm not sure if the water pump was checked when the head was off, but temperature is fine at high speeds and revs now, it just runs a bit hot when crawling in our currently scorching weather (35 deg c average), no water loss detected so far after 3 days of use. When crawling in hot weather it gets to about 100 deg c, not sure if this could be due to the higher compression (slightly thinner head and smaller combustion chamber area)?

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