Smaky 73 Report post Posted March 7, 2016 That would lower the temp as it would be flooding the engine, I'd look further into the water pump, if it was a plastic one that was fitted then it's possible the first time it overheated it cracked, then flush the cooling system, if there is a blockage then the flow obviously isn't there. Your ambient temp will keep it a little warmer in slow traffic but this should bring on the fan more ofter....so I'd replace the temp sensor incase it's sending false signals to the ECU, this would also underfuel the engine and this also increases the temp. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leongsoon 8 Report post Posted March 10, 2016 I don't know much about the water pump other than it is a Sachs unit and was fitted about a year ago during the timing belt change. I noticed it's just running water in the cooling system now (mechanics here don't believe in coolant haha) so I'll put some coolant in later. Temp sensor seems fine based on temp gauge / MES reading, but I'll look into it again. Thanks for the advice! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leongsoon 8 Report post Posted April 5, 2016 (edited) Hi guys, a quick question! My car is still running hot when idling in traffic in hot weather, say about 3/4 of the temperature gauge, or almost to the next marker after 90c, all this in about 38c weather. Once the car moves the temperature quickly goes back to normal, if it's idling in an open area, the temperature will just hover around 90c. Even under hot weather the temperature wouldn't rise much if I push it. Idling 3-5 minutes in hot traffic is what does it. Or am I just paranoid? I did test the fan and relays by removing the thermostat's temp sender with the engine on; fan kicks in after about 3 seconds, the fan then runs faster after another 3 seconds. Low speed works all the time with air con on (nobody in their right mind here drives with air con off really haha). I believe that the test rules out fan motor, wiring, and relays, but is it possible that the resistor is shot and it's preventing the fan from running high speed while driving? As a side note, I noticed that sometimes one of my lambda in the exhaust manifold isn't working correctly (reading at a constant 0.75 or 0.0075 before suddenly reading normally). This makes the car shudder terribly on idle. I've cleaned the contacts a few weeks back and it seems fine now, hasn't recurred. Just putting this here in case it is related. Edited April 5, 2016 by leongsoon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leongsoon 8 Report post Posted April 5, 2016 Ok, an update, with the engine running hot at 3/4 of the gauge, i turned the AC off and disconnected the temp sender at the thermostat... And sure enough, the fan just started running faster and louder than it was seconds ago. I guess a busted resistor it is then. Will it be ok if I connect the 2 resistor wires and let it run high speed all the time for a few days while I get a new resistor? The temperature is managable, but having it stick so high sure makes me nervous. I'm just worried that making it run high speed constantly will overheat and melt some wires, relays etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leongsoon 8 Report post Posted April 7, 2016 Another update, I think I should move this question to another category but unsure which one, so back here it goes. I've put in another used fan resistor from a parted car (no new ones in stock at the moment) but the high speed still doesn't kick in. I've since removed the wires to the resistor and bridged them with a 30a fuse. It's constantly at high speed now so that fixes my overheating risk for the moment. Reckon it's just another botched resistor or is there anything I'm missing (relays, fuses etc)? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
