classic 2 Report post Posted January 5, 2015 Actuator is coming off due to service, but in the darkness of my enginebay, i was only able to see one allen bolt holding it down. Does anybody have pictures with details on the other bolts? Couldn't feel more bolts either, but there's got to be at least 3-5 others Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
classic 2 Report post Posted January 5, 2015 Found this picture, can soneone confirm that bolts 12 and 13 is the only onles holding the unit down besides bolt 7 going trough the selector pin? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
radek-j 0 Report post Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) There are 3 screws on top of the actuator + the one (11 on your picture) holding the selector shaft. You can unscrew it after removing the cap (10). Edited January 9, 2015 by radek-j Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
classic 2 Report post Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) Got it off eventually. Has anyone changed the o-rings before? Got a set of standard o-rings from my autodealer, but some of the ones in the actuator are a different colour (green) and seems harder and more rigid. Will my stock black o-rings fail due to high pressure although they're supposed to withstand oil/petroleum? Sent fra min SM-G900F via Tapatalk Edited January 24, 2015 by classic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
radek-j 0 Report post Posted January 25, 2015 I think the hardest thing for o-rings to withstand is temperature. On alfaowner forum people suggest buying o-rings made of Viton. http://www.marcorubber.com/material_chart.htm Look for Viton (FKM) and compare it with f.e. NBR. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted January 30, 2015 That would be because the correct seals are Viton. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
classic 2 Report post Posted January 31, 2015 (edited) Ordered this; http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=175_190&products_id=7812 Thanks guys! Sent fra min SM-G900F via Tapatalk Edited January 31, 2015 by classic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cas 2 Report post Posted February 20, 2015 I have a dead selespeed , no forward gears. Pump is good , gearbox works in reverse , no forward . If i drive 600klms to Melbourne i can go to one of those U-pull-it wreckers and get another box or actuator for little money. What tools do i need to get the Actuator off? How long does it take and how long to get another box out ? Will the 156 Selespeed fit? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
classic 2 Report post Posted February 20, 2015 13 wrench to remove battery tray. Umbrako needed for removing actuator unit, needs to be flexible due to tight space. Also needs kong Umbrako for undoing bolt that goes through selector shaft Sent fra min SM-G900F via Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cas 2 Report post Posted February 20, 2015 Classic, many thanks. how long to get it out and if i get the box as well how much longer? Do both driveshafts bolt up to flanges on the gearbox or do they pull out? Anything special i need to get the box out? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted February 20, 2015 Getting the box out is about 2 hours, if you remove the hub nut, remove the fork to lower arm bolt and split the upper wishbone on the l/h side then the drive shaft pops out completely, the r/h driveshaft can stay where it is as the gearbox will slide off it. Unless you have gearbox oil leaking from the box/engine joint (clutch area) then I doubt you need a gearbox, you can also remove the clutch speed sensor from the front of the box (22mm) if it is chewed up on the end then you do need a box and clutch, I'd start though by checking the fluid level for the sele, and ensuring the rod length is correct (28 - 28.5 mm) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cas 2 Report post Posted February 21, 2015 My thought was to take the box as well as the U-pull-it wreckers here charge $160 for a complete box , which is not much money. They are good guys! Are internal selector issues common? The box was good before just a clunk as it shifted gears , not always there . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cas 2 Report post Posted February 21, 2015 I havn't got alfadiag yet . Where should the nut be locked on the rod , can it be set roughly by sight? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cas 2 Report post Posted February 21, 2015 Guys, fixing a few things today. Kids furniture and when it cools down a few sheep to shear. I got into the wiring and had a fiddle with the main seles plug by the battery and it works now! Got gears! Fantastic! Is this common? The car was run without an inner guard for some time and the elecs got splashed. When i got the car i got one . Does the 156 gravel tray fit the 147? Thanks for the replies! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Smaky 73 Report post Posted February 21, 2015 No. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cas 2 Report post Posted April 2, 2016 Can you detach the Selespeed pack/solenoids etc and tie it up, leaving it in place in the engine bay and take the gear box out. Then when re-fitting the gearbox slip it down onto the gear box? My one has a faulty 3rd gear that makes a terrible noise and pops out of gear. Smaky mentioned internal gearbox casing damage said the selector casing fatigues and cracks , so it won't go into gear. Anyone had this ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cas 2 Report post Posted April 11, 2016 Had a couple days off , no one around today so i could work in peace. Got the gear box out . Trouble with one actuator mount screw with stripped head. Took ages to get that out. Then the rear engine mount a rounded bolt , bugger of a thing. It needs a new clutch kit . Will order one tomorrow. Pressure plate worn on bearing area. *Whats the story of running the box through the gears without the actuator to test gear selection with box on the bench? Is it 3 planes of the selector shaft moving out of the box , with left and right? Presume the actuator moves the selector shaft in a tiered pattern? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites